Okay folks, this is in relation to the 550 express and a custom dropbox mag i've just received. The mag is TOOOOOOOOOo long.. and I wouldn't cut that much of a front bridge, so there's my thoughts

1: goals
make mag deeper (vertically)
make mag wider but not "weird" - will allow for proper geometery
use a dropbox like configuration
make useful and attractive

2: parts
sheet metal, .055 width (same as mauser box)
vz-24 magbox
enfield floorplate (not THAT wide)

Ideas and why
the new dropbox is nearly wide enough in the front and far too long. It is tall enough to put three down, but the geometery is a little off. The floorplate overlaps the sides of the mag.. pretty attractive, I am not overly happy with the release (oberdork style) with the split floorplate. I like the model 70 style a little better, but that's a nice to have.

Solution

1 template length (which is fine) from the vz mag...

2: template the height from the london guns drop box

3: the width has to change (more later)

4: cut off ONE side of the mag box, and replace with the taller replacement, indexed from the BOTTOM (making it both aligned and "dropped". weld on with my new tig welder

5: replace second side, doing the same as above

6: raise the front and rear of the box, with additional steel, adjust to fit

7: modify enfield floorplate to overlap nicely, and then trim/fill rear to all for a mod70 style plunger release.

the width will be right at max for the rear, tapering to a good amount remaining.

the overall length of the whole thing, will automagically remain the same, since I am not parting it... which means the hole's line up...

this SHOULD fit a more or less standard mauser (the wider for certain) stock, or one with "proud" wood (.250 or so) and/or cut for a dropbox, but not INLETTED for it.

Other than the internal rim of the mag, this should retain the mauser bolt together strengths of the mag... and allow me to have a better geometery for feeding and for milling the rails.

I would especially like to hear from our resident smiths that have attempted mods on the mauser mags.. matt, you too, please

Jeffe

okay.. i still SUCK at welding..

jeffe

Jeffe, is that the box from London guns? - dan

Dan,
yes sir.. the box that is too long is the london gun... basically a blackburn long and XL...

I am going to be taking a TIG welding course at a local Community College
jeffe

Paul,
thanks for the advice.. i did the typical thing, first... "okay, that didn't work, a little more amps"... that didn't improve a thing, so I turned it back down...

using 1/16 rod and filler... just need more practice, i guess..so i'll take a tig class offered here at a com-col!! it's part of their welding certificate program, which i don't think i need the rest of, today

thanks
jeffe

With thin metal, you want as little current as possible, it's the thick crap covered with paint and grease that needs more current

I'd advise investing in a smaller collet and tungsten electrode, as I recall you can get 1/32" electrodes. I'd also get some small dia filler rods, or a 1# spool of mig wire. This will make life much easier.

If you could find a good Tig opperator, offering him $20-50 or a case a beer to come over and show you how to set up your rig for the type of welding your doing, and to show you some tips. I'd venture you'd learn more in an evening than a whole semester of a welding class. After that, practice with your machine on scrap metal.

Practice welding old hacksaw blades together. If you get good on really thin stuff, the mag box will seem easy.

Ergonomics are important for all welding. Get set up comfortably. You don't have to worry about splatter going everywhere, so get a comfortable chair. Have good support for both hands. I don't know if you have foot or torch current control, but get comfortable with that setup. I like to drape the cords across my shoulders and down my torch arm so the weight of the cable isn't trying to pull the torch out of my hand.

You're making me really wish I had a tig rig! The smaller Miller synchrowave has been calling my name for some time, but I just haven't had the type of projects to really justify it. One of these days.

Paul,
I think i'll try the local guy... but, heck, the class is only 2 bills....

funny you mention draping the cords.... When I was painting and sandblasting, I always used the weight of the lines to keep my hansd UP by wrapping around me and over my shoulder (paint gun) or makign a loop about my shoulder and pulling down... sandblasting

I'll turn it down to 20 amps and try again

jeffe

Jeffe,

I have been working on a similar conversion. I wanted to put five .458 Lott down in a VZ24 mag box and have managed fairly well. My problem currently is fitting a floorplate latch like you are trying to avoid.

As to your plans, I avoided the length problem this way.

Saw the side walls of the mag out by cutting downward inside the front and rear walls, stopping at the thickness of the front tang. Now saw horizontally at this level to remove the sidewalls, but leaving the rest of the bottom metal intact. You can now file your front and rear walls to the width you desire, and weld in new side walls front and rear, over the original walls. Once you are happy with the fit you can saw out the remains of the original side walls. This method may open the front of the box wider than you had planned, but I don't think too wide will affect feeding.

When I tried this I was adding length as well, so had to cut the whole box off first, weld in new front and rear walls, add the sides, then file the opening in the bottom front and rear after all four sides were done.

Hope this helps,
Doug

Doug,
thanks alot.. I tried this, kinda, by cutting the box off (liek an enfield)...that showed promise, kinda

jeffe