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Stock for first Africa/DGR rifle
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Picture of M1Tanker
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I posted this in the Africa forum but I didnt get much response. Anyhelp would be apreciated.

I am in the middle of pulling together all the parts I need to build my first African rifle. It will be a 375 H&H. I have all the parts needed except the Blackburn bottom metal, and trigger. Let me list what I am using so that you can get a feel for what the rifle will be.

Action - immaculate 1909 Argentine

Barrel - Lilja 375 with quarter rib and NECG express sights (front and rear)

Bottom metal - planning on Blackburn drop belly

Trigger - undecided as of yet

Bases - NECG / EAW w/30mm rings

Stock blank - AAA (maybe exhibition) claro. It has nice red and black contrasting color with heavy fiddleback throughout the entire blank.

I will post pics of the blank and barrel after I get back home this evening.

Receiver, bolt handle, swivels, rings/bases, bolt shroud, grip cap, and bottom metal will be color cased. The barrel will be blued.

What I would like to know is about the stock. I want it to have a classic safari rifle look. Since this will be a once in a lifetime rifle for me. I know I want it to have an open grip, round fore-end with a shadow line cheekpiece. Leaning towards an ebony fore end cap with a steel grip cap. 1" Decelorator. What should I look for in the stock pattern? What patterns do you suggest? Are there features that will lend it to better feel and balance I should look for? What stock makers do you reccomend?

If you can post pics of your rifles and point out features that you like and dislike it would really help.
 
Posts: 3155 | Location: Rigby, ID | Registered: 20 March 2004Reply With Quote
<9.3x62>
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Personally, I like Bastogne or English for heavier-recoiling rifles - they seem to split and crack less. But a good peice of claro is good too.

I think the key feature you'll want to think hard about is the ability to use both open sights and a scope. Thus a nice set of QR rings and bases will be a must. Anyway, many american stocks (especially) that you may be familiar with are NOT good choices for open-sight shooting because the comb and heel are too high. I find that a classic European style with a pancake cheekpiece and about 5/8" drop at comb, 1.3-1.5" drop at heel will allow a low-mounted scope to work well, but will also allow you to get down in high-mounted irons. Other issues are cast-off, palm swell (which are quite nice if done right), and the angle the pad is stalled relative to the bore line (I like a 2-3 degree cant). Another nice feature of these traditional styles is that some of the recoil is directed up instead of back. All this being said, do some serious work finding out what stock style fits you - talk to a professional stock maker and have them analyze your hold and your intentions (open sights and scope) for the rifle. There is A LOT to getting a perfect stock fit, especially if the gun is going to be scoped and open sighted.

A nice 1" pad is a good idea - a steel buttplate is classy, but not qutie as practical for shooting and "leaning" a rifle.

Consider having an extended mag put in, assuming your blank has enough wood.

Ebony cap is very classic and is something I like either at 45 or 90 degress.

Have the action bedded and the action area cross-bolted, and have the barrel floated (subtly). Make sure you specify how generous you want the barrel floated. I don't like a big gap around my barrel.

Install dual-screw (flush fit) studs, and have a barrel band put on in case something happens to the front stud.

Anyway, all JMO...

Good luck.
 
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As far as sling studs go I would use the ones that Tom Burgess in Montana makes, I have one here somewhere that I could send you a pick of, they go into the stock with no more sign of how than a pin prick sized hole that the allen wrench goes through to tighten it. Really a smooth setup, imagine the two screw euro. types without the screws showing.

Red
 
Posts: 4740 | Location: Fresno, CA | Registered: 21 March 2003Reply With Quote
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Thanks for the great suggestions. They make a lot of sense. And I will most definately keep them in mind.
 
Posts: 3155 | Location: Rigby, ID | Registered: 20 March 2004Reply With Quote
<allen day>
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Who's doing the metalwork? HOW are they doing the metalwork?

The metalwork is the heart of the rifle. Any number of guys can do the stock.........

AD
 
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I am planning on Duane Wiebe doing the metal work. He did the barrel work already. I figured i might as well let him finish the project.

I am hoping to get Chic Worthing to do the stock work for me. I would like to have some pattern ideas in mind to talk to him about though.
 
Posts: 3155 | Location: Rigby, ID | Registered: 20 March 2004Reply With Quote
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Check this one out. 404J Scroll down to Chic's post for the picture.
 
Posts: 1366 | Location: Houston, TX | Registered: 10 February 2003Reply With Quote
<allen day>
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I'd certainly have Duane build the entire rifle....

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Tanker,



Just one suggestion, in considering the stock style I like to give some thought to the finished weight of the gun that I would like to achieve. That means also considering the weight of the barreled action. How long is the bbl? The thickness of the buttstock, length of the forearm etc all contribute greatly to the ballance. For a DGR, (or any hunting rifle really) I think excellent ballance should take first priority as opposed to style. And if a professional stockmaker were doing it for me, that is definatley a point we would disguss. Just my .02c.
 
Posts: 10158 | Location: Tooele, Ut | Registered: 27 September 2001Reply With Quote
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Quote:

I'd certainly have Duane build the entire rifle....

AD



Duane is waaaay out of my price range. I understand a good custom stock is pricey but I also know there are some great stock gurus who are affordable. Chic does beautiful work and his prices are affordable. It will still require me to save up but it can be done. Having Duane put it together is going to be painful enough. If my wife ever got wind of what this rifle is going to cost by the time it is done I would be better off back in Iraq. I may have to volunteere for another combat tour and save the incentive pay to fund this thing yet.
 
Posts: 3155 | Location: Rigby, ID | Registered: 20 March 2004Reply With Quote
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For metalwork I'd certainly be going with a PME or Gentry 3-position safety. Both my Mausers are so equipped.

As far as stock designs go, I like the straight classic American style, with ebony foretip, a wide-ish forend and on a 375, I'd go with a 22" barrel, that has some heft to it. You can put a lot of balance in a rifle with a short stubby barrel. Believe me the animals won't be able to tell the difference. The decelerator is a good idea too.
 
Posts: 541 | Location: Mokopane, Limpopo Province, South Africa | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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M1 , I don't know if you have ever had the opportunity to handle a Whitworth .375 or not , but if it were me I would copy that stock right down to the nubs . The Whitworth is the nicest pointing bolt gun you can imagine.......
 
Posts: 1660 | Location: Gary , SD | Registered: 05 March 2001Reply With Quote
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M1Tanker

I am not sure what style stock you are looking for.
I have a simular gun in the works and decided to go
with a Rigby style stock. The style that I am talking
about can be seen at www,cabelas.com Click on gun
library then Rigby and then # 165556. To me this is
the ultimate in classic Big Bore / African stocks.
I have not found a duplicator with this style stock.
Does anyone know of a duplicator with this pattern?

James
 
Posts: 658 | Location: W.Va | Registered: 20 August 2002Reply With Quote
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