Any tutorials floating around on this? I have a 1909 FMAP action that has a replacement safety in it, probably from the armory, and it cannot be moved from FIRE to SAFE.

Seems like it's a matter of grinding the small ramp on the safety to allow it to slip under the cocking piece, I've never done it and would like to see a proper "How To".


thanks,

Rob

It's pretty basic.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hiv4wX1K4V4

Saw that but thought I'd ask here.


thanks,

Rob

Also look at the cocking piece where the safety engages. A groove or galling may be present which needs to be polished out. Check the trigger sear and cocking piece for alteration. Someone may have attempted a trigger job and mucked it up.

Thanks Bobster, that's been done. I actually swapped the safety from a working action and it worked.
The safety on this action is the only piece that's blue, never been filed, I'm sure it needs to be fit.

Do not file (good luck with that as they are quite hard), grind the cocking piece instead. Amateurs sometimes grind off the recess for the mid position on the safety, or grind the angle too much and it flops around. Grind and fit, the angle on the cocking piece. Not the safety.
Safeties were not hand fitted, filed, or ground at the factory. If you see grinding on one, that was Bubba work.

Probably will get shit for this, but I read in Kuhnhausen's Mauser book that the cocking piece is never ground. Inspect for galling or burrs, polish if need be, but never ground. He says it's always the safety that has metal removed.

Good answers but I want to bring up a couple of points . One is , does it have a stock trigger? Has it been honed incorrect? They use to have reverse safeties, meaning left was locked . Sometimes parts get swapped and to utilize the reverse safety you need the bolt shroud also , if you want it to work AND stay in the shroud .
Make sure the pieces haven't been buggered and I would just round the edge on the 2:00 position ( from the rear ) on the cocking piec and of course double check where your safety is first making contact with the cocking piece. If I remember correctly it's about 2:00 looking from the shooting position ( rear )

Tolerance stack up from at least 15 different makers, over 100 plus years, insures that you will sometimes have safety/trigger/cocking piece combinations that won't work. I'd say about 20% won't.
I guess Kuhnhausen has never fitted a Model 70 side swing safety.......

quote:

...
I guess Kuhnhausen has never fitted a Model 70 side swing safety.......

Ha ha. Kuhnhausen puts together a mean book. Really poured it on with the M1/M14 volumes. Never saw one of his rifles in the winners circle at Camp Perry. Just sayin...

Yep; I have them all; Colt SAA, Mausers of course, M1A, etc; not bad books at all. Nothing is perfect.

It's the stock military trigger. I got this years ago from the Trinidad College Bookstore that sold them for the Gunsmithing students to work on. I imagine a lot of worn parts were swapped out before selling, assuming the students needed something to work on. The safety and trigger both have blue on the engagement areas.

Being all original parts means nothing unless they all came off the same rifle. Tolerance stack up.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Being all original parts means nothing unless they all came off the same rifle. ....

Not sure what that means. I didn't say they were original, I said they were replacements.

It means that unless the parts are original to the rifle, they have a 20% chance of not working.
What I said.

quote:

Originally posted by Recoil Rob:

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Being all original parts means nothing unless they all came off the same rifle. ....

Not sure what that means. I didn't say they were original, I said they were replacements.

As the gun is cocked , put thumb pressure on the rear of the cocking piece and see if you can engage the safety , if so the amount of removal is minimal.
Tolerance stacking is when 2 or more parts are both at the very end of acceptable specs , as such they need to be switched out or hand fitted .
Loose cocking piece to firing pin will can't the cocking piece and thumb pressure can be used to see if the safety will engage .
Good luck .

I started making M70 type safety for Mausers back in 1970. These were made from 1085 steel and after all fitting was completed I cased hardened the engaging sections. If you don;t know how to fit these safeties have someone that understands the clearance of the trigger and sear to the safety pulling the firing pin back a few thousands to make sure that the pressure is removed from the trigger to sear. If this is not correct you can fire the rifle by pushing off the safe position. I always checked to see that the trigger is pulled with it on safety position without feeling any resistance and trigger returns to normal position under the sear. I believe Taylor and Robbins were the first to make these safeties in '60'sd.

Piece of cake Bob. Excellent vid of the area to be reduced.
Go slow. Make certain your file is flat against the material you are removing. Slow long strokes with a sharp hand file or diamond plate file followed by finer grit wet or dry sand paper wrapped around a flat file with oil to smooth it out.

You aren't going to file most Mauser safeties or cocking pieces; they are, or should be, very hard.
Belt sander, is what I use.

Yep, file wouldn't touch it. I have a small belt/disc sander that worked, took it off in small amounts and tested, 3rd try worked, finished it up with some 400 grit by hand to polish. All 3 positions tested fine, I never went near the indents for the middle position.

Thanks to all for your help.

Good for you Rob not Bob (sorry). Glad you got it just right.
You're right dpcd. The one I filed was built up with weld to fill an overcut notch in the CP. Therefore softer than an uncut one. The sear face was still very hard.