I didn't want to steal Marc's thread so I figured I'd start a new one. When I picked mine I ordered the one where I didn't have to grind alot. One because I'm lazy and two because I was reshaping the stock at the same time a didn't know how much wood I was going to remove. The stock is cut perfectly flat but the recoil pad has a little gap at the bottom from the screw to the end of the stock. Did I pick too small of a pad and I needed one with screws holes farther apart and larger inner plate? Or did I get a bad pad? Other than dishing the stock how can I fix this?
-Don

Sorry but I just want to make sure I'm understanding you correctly- if the pad is screwed to the gun, there is a gap between the bottom of the pad and the butt of the gun?

If you lay the pad on a flat piece of glass, is the gap still there? How large is the gap? Can you sand the back of the pad flatter, or is the gap too big for that?

Personally, if the gap is noticeably large I'd exchange the pad instead of investing time to flatten it.

You can drop the pad into a pan of hot water for 10 minutes (boil the water, turn off the heat, drop) to bend the pad if it's really warped.

Tape an entire square of 150 grit sandpaper to somthing flat, like glass or a countertop. Carefully sand the pad back perfecly flat.

Thanks guys, Mark that exactly what the problem is. Ant the gap isn't that big but I can see it and that's what counts. I didn't even think of sanding it flat, even though it seem obvious. I was just getting alittle frustrated with it.
-Don

If it is a rifle pad it should be glued on anyway. Use a piece of large rubber band or surgical tubing to hold it against the stock until it sets up.

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
If it is a rifle pad it should be glued on anyway. Use a piece of large rubber band or surgical tubing to hold it against the stock until it sets up.

Thanks Jim. I never heard that before. What do you use for glue?
-Don

You never have a problem with gaps if there's a slight concave to the buttstock.. Here's the set up I use...the platen is 16" long and middle is 3/4" high. Carefully! bring the butt down on a new (80 grit) belt...done in a few seconds..and looks classy

Seems like ALL the decelerator pads as of late have a little uneven-ness problem with them. When I enclounter one with a slight bow, I walk it over to the disc sander and make it flat. The rubber cuts pretty quick so it takes a light touch to keep the cut square and even, but with a little practice it becomes second nature.

Before attaching the pad I use a little 6" steel rule to check both the width and length of the stock and pad surfaces for flatness.

quote:

Thanks Jim. I never heard that before. What do you use for glue

I glue mine on with plan old epoxy. And use surgical tubing to put pressure on it until the glue set.

quote:

Originally posted by ramrod340:

quote:

Thanks Jim. I never heard that before. What do you use for glue

I glue mine on with plan old epoxy. And use surgical tubing to put pressure on it until the glue set.

I use a bit of glass bedding compound....just another epoxy, but if you do this I recommend wiping the butt stock joint area with a rag soaked in acetone or even brake cleaner first to remove any natural oils in the wood.

I've actually had them come off when I didn't do this.

quote:

I glue mine on with plan old epoxy. And use surgical tubing to put pressure on it until the glue set

Oops I forgot I also take a piece of threaded rod and screw into the screw hole on the pad base from behind. Then drill a lose fitting hole to match in the stock. I also use a dremel to rough up the plastic base. Don't know if either really help but have never had one come off.

quote:

I walk it over to the disc sander and make it flat.

DITTO! All the Decelerators (probably all Pacmyer pads) have uneven bases. I bought a 12" disc sander just for flatening them and contouring them to the but profile.