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Dark linseed oil
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Picture of richj
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Is there a way, besides diluting, to lighten the color of linseed oil.

rich
 
Posts: 6526 | Location: NY, NY | Registered: 28 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Picture of Von Gruff
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I wonder if the colour you are refering to is the darkening of the wood when the BLO is applied and if that is the case what you are seeing is the wetting ability of the oil. It is the same result as rubing a water dampened rag over the wood to see what colour and grain definition it will produce. I dont think you can lighten the effect unless you use a finish with more urethane that sits on the surface rather than in it. For myself I use Tung oil-vegetable turps and bees wax as I like the colout this brings out in the wood.

Von Gruff.

Von Gruff.


Von Gruff.

http://www.vongruffknives.com/

Gen 12: 1-3

Exodus 20:1-17

Acts 4:10-12


 
Posts: 2693 | Location: South Otago New Zealand. | Registered: 08 February 2009Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Von Gruff:
I wonder if the colour you are refering to is the darkening of the wood when the BLO is applied and if that is the case what you are seeing is the wetting ability of the oil. It is the same result as rubing a water dampened rag over the wood to see what colour and grain definition it will produce. I dont think you can lighten the effect unless you use a finish with more urethane that sits on the surface rather than in it. For myself I use Tung oil-vegetable turps and bees wax as I like the colout this brings out in the wood.

Von Gruff.


Von Gruff Where do you get vege turps mate? I didn't know we could get it here. I have heard that it is a great drying agent too. I did my first oild finished stock with Truoil & white spirits & it has come out very well for a first time effort. This has about 20 thin hand rubbed coats.


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Posts: 11400 | Location: New Zealand | Registered: 02 July 2008Reply With Quote
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It's a bottle of LinSpeed and it's as dark as coffee. Can I add any "chemical" to the bottle to lighten it up.

rich
 
Posts: 6526 | Location: NY, NY | Registered: 28 November 2005Reply With Quote
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I used to use linseed oil but now I use almond oil. Fantastic for gunstocks. No smell too!
 
Posts: 885 | Location: Eastern Cape, South Africa | Registered: 08 January 2010Reply With Quote
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You might try tung oil, I prefer it.


NRA Life Member, Band of Bubbas Charter Member, PGCA, DRSS.
Shoot & hunt with vintage classics.
 
Posts: 9487 | Location: Texas Hill Country | Registered: 11 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Is it raw or boiled that you are finding too dark? If it is the boiled try the raw it is usually a little lighter.
 
Posts: 6823 | Location: United Kingdom | Registered: 18 November 2007Reply With Quote
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fla

I prefer tung oil too. I wonder how Walnut oil would look.

Long story, I was asked to remove some checkering from a Ruger 44 carbine forend, wrap around with initials 4" long on the bottom. Owner also gave me the Linspeed. I removed the ruger red finish and checkering easily. The Linspeed is a nice finish but just too dark for my taste.

Rich



quote:
Originally posted by fla3006:
You might try tung oil, I prefer it.
 
Posts: 6526 | Location: NY, NY | Registered: 28 November 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Nakihunter:
Von Gruff Where do you get vege turps mate? I didn't know we could get it here. I have heard that it is a great drying agent too.


Try Rainbow Paints, Dunedin. 03 474 0659.
I bought a 5 ltr tin a few years ago for arround $80. If you cant get it PM me and I will send you a ltr for your stock work.

richj I think Linspeed has other than pure BLO so am not aware of any method to lighten it. You could put it asside and get some straight BLO or better yet Tung oil thinned with Vege turps with just a bit of bees wax added to the last half doz coats.

enfieldspares

Is it raw or boiled that you are finding too dark? If it is the boiled try the raw it is usually a little lighter.
I would not use the raw linseed oil as it will not "dry" and migrate out of the wood when it gets warm-hot.

Von Gruff.


Von Gruff.

http://www.vongruffknives.com/

Gen 12: 1-3

Exodus 20:1-17

Acts 4:10-12


 
Posts: 2693 | Location: South Otago New Zealand. | Registered: 08 February 2009Reply With Quote
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I did a little googling last night on the subject- it seems there is an edible linseed oil, goes by "flax seed oil". It doesn't have anything added to it as does linseed oil, and is raw.

Maybe worth a try to boil some up yourself (so it would dry faster)- all this is a total guess.
 
Posts: 3314 | Location: NYC | Registered: 18 April 2005Reply With Quote
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fla3006
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Posted 21 January 2010 21:27
You might try tung oil, I prefer it. X 2

Some of you might find this info interesting and it doesn't just pertain to Hardwood floors .

http://www.woodfloorsonline.co...oducts/finishes.html

Gun Stocks ( wooden ones ) are normally made from Hardwoods Walnut ,Birch an so on .

I personally prefer using an Aerospace Urethane , however if one wants the Old Traditional English Oil

looking finish , with a Much better below surface moisture protection there are alternatives .

A single coat of Moisture cured urethane allowed to soak into stock , buff off any surface sheen

after drying ; Then applying Watco or Tung Oil Teak Oil or whatever Oil you like , allow to dry wax and

buff it up or knock the sheen down Your choice .

Also stop and consider certain Marine Finishes , your stocks will never see the punishment ,

that Boat wood endures. Not even Close on your Worst weather hunts .

It's the 21 St. Century Gentleman ; Take a gander at some choices from these pages !.

http://www.jamestowndistributo...7&refine=1&page=GRID


thumb archer archer archer
 
Posts: 4485 | Location: Planet Earth | Registered: 17 October 2008Reply With Quote
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