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one of us |
Try having a new factory extractor installed. I personally do not like the Sako conversions. They defeat some of the safety factors engineered into the rifle. The factory extractor works fine and is well thought out. As a general rule I don't think re-engineering things, a car, a rifle, or whatever, is a good idea. To pretend for a second that you or I know more than Remington's or Ford's engineers is nonesense. Just my opinion after screwing up more than a few guns a perfectly good car. Good luck. | |||
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one of us |
The extractor is probably the most notorious weak link in the Rem 700 design. I've got several model 700's and have had no problem with any of the extractors, one rifle has well over 3000 rounds. When I had a STA platoon in the Marines I noted several extractor problems with our M40A1's, which is just a real nicely built model 700. Me? I'd just have the factory extractor replaced by someone who really knows their way around a Remington rifle. I have seen the Sako extractor, and it's a neat conversion, but I'm not sold on it. Regards, Guy | |||
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<Vek> |
Maybe mine is strange, but "installing" a new factory extractor looks easier said than done, as my extractor appears to be machined into the body of the bolt. I compared the extractor on my Dad's 700 mountain rifle (also in 280), and it is quite a bit more prominent/pronounced than mine. His is also machined into the bolt body. Am I missing something here? Thanks for the help, JV | ||
one of us |
JV, Your M700 extractor is riveted to the bolt, and it sounds like it needs some attention. I would have it replaced after checking that there aren't any little brass shavings caught under it. jim dodd | |||
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one of us |
I had one factory 700 extractor fail and converted all of my 700's to the sako extractor.I have had no problems at all with any of them. | |||
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One of Us |
Vek, If it is a case of the bolt lifts OK, but the case is not pulled free, that can be a primary extraction problem. Rem 700s have poor primary extraction to start with. Primary extraction is the diatance the bolt moves back while you lift the handle. You could have found that over time the extraction cam at the back of the rear receiver ring and where the bolt handle engages it have worn, this can be quite common with Stainless Rem 700s. If the case rims on your 35 Whelen are thinner than your previous calibder that makes the situation worse. Where a Sako extractor if properly installed will help, is if it is mounted so that the hook is closer to the case rim than the factroy extractor. In other words, less of the primary extraction is being used up just getting the extractor hook to engage the case rim. Mike | |||
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one of us |
Typical Remington extractor. time to change it. Not a big deal. | |||
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one of us |
From your description it sounds like your extractor is giving up the ghost. This is a simple change, the part is riveted to the bolt as mentioned. The differance in size between your extractor and your father's might be wear or the outer edge of the extractor might have broken off. Had this happen on a short action 700, I just changed the extractor (I think the part was 4 bucks or so) and went on my merry way. HTH - Dan | |||
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<Celt> |
It would be easy to change with the right tools, but the rivet type extractors are no longer made. If you can find a smith with some horded, thats good, otherwise a Sako style is in order. When properly installed, the Sako style will not be any kind of safety factor whatsoever. It will be very reliable. The notion that a properly installed Sako style will harm the integrity of a 700 bolt is a farce. Look at all the controled round feed guns. These have much less around the case head. The extractor claws get broken or bent very bad and gas will follow it back when a violent case rupture occurs. I have seen it a few times. Where as a PROPERLY installed Sako in a 700 will remain in place and still function after such an episode. I tested one I installed by over loading untill I had a nasty case sepration. I did this on purpouse and safely. It was to settle an argument about the integrity of the Sako style extractors. A few words on Properly installing a Sako extractor First the old one must be removed. Then in a fixture for bolts in the lathe, the undercut that held the old one in must be machined away. Then a ring good steel must be press / soldered in its place and opened up to the proper case head size and cleaned up. Then the milling for the Sako style can be done. This will add to the strength of the bolt face and make the Extractor more reliable by getting rid of any hang ups by the case rim in the old extractor undercut. FWIW Celt | ||
one of us |
Western Gun Parts here in Edmonton has the extractors, if you need one. - Dan | |||
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one of us |
Brownells sells the replacement extractor and rivets. Part #078-000-007, lists for fifteen bucks and change. | |||
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<Celt> |
I guess I missed then in the #55 catalog. Just found em though. Glad they got them. Celt | ||
one of us |
The extractor on your 700 may not be riveted in. For a couple years or so Remington tried an extractor which was a snap in unit. It sucked. The main problem was in the heat treat of the extractor. It either bent (too soft)or broke (too hard). The replacments I have bought lately seem better. I don't think there is anything wrong with the Sako conversion provided it is properly done. It often is not. Regards, Bill. | |||
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one of us |
The extractor for the Marlin bolt action rifle they came out with a few year's ago is a drop in replacement if you can't find a Remington. A couple of year's ago I couldn't find any rivet in Rem. extractor's and I used Marlin. They appear to be the exact same thing. I've put in a bunch of Sako extractor's in and never had a problem. I've had people have a Sako extractor put in before they ever used the gun. Ron | |||
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Moderator |
Call remington, and see if they'll do it, gratis. It should be fairly straight forward. jeffe | |||
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