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Re: Help with Mauser Bolt repair.
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Picture of bartsche
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John!!!! I got a mod 98 in 22-250 just like it. I got a replacement bolt and when I went to use it found out I had set back in the action. The bolt opens hard with any reasonable modest load . Well almost.See what Clark can do. You may NOT want to invest more if indeed you did get set back. roger

Maybe you should consider yourself lucky. You may be pushing the envelope teaching reloading to more than one young boy at a time. Just a thought. carry on!
 
Posts: 10226 | Location: Temple City CA | Registered: 29 April 2003Reply With Quote
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I have a commercial made Mauser from about the early 1930s before Hitler came to power. It is barreled for a 22/250 right now.

I am teaching some scouts to handload, using reduced loads.
However, since you can't keep you eye on every kid every second, and no matter how many times you tell some kids something, it goes in one ear and out and the other. Or they just go out of their way to ignore what an adult tells them to do.

One scout double charged a light load of SR 4756, however it was enough to lock up the bolt. Light tapping with a rubber mallet freed the case which was blown to hell and back. It also blew away some of the steel on the bolt face that grabs the cartridge rim, besides the claw extractor.

This being a commerical Mauser I checked with several places that handle military Mausers, but they indicated that the front of the bolt was different than military Mausers.

Anyone with any ideas, I would appreciate it. I already bought and finished a new Boyds laminated grey stock for this rifle and have ordered a 6mm Remington Stainless steel barrel for it, to turn it into a varmint rifle.

Thanks
seafire
 
Posts: 2889 | Location: Southern OREGON | Registered: 27 May 2003Reply With Quote
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Picture of fireball168
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Can you post a picture of the bolt face? Since you're rebarreling, if the damage is superficial, your gunsmith might be able to reface it...?
 
Posts: 1332 | Location: IN | Registered: 30 April 2004Reply With Quote
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Seafire, I don't recall that the bolt heads are different between military and commercial '98s except where case head size differs but maybe so. If not, an experienced 'smith can cut the bolt just in front of the third lug and weld the front half of another bolt onto it which preserves the serial # stamped into the bolt root. I have one done that way and the repair is invisible. By cutting back at the rear you lessen the chance of overheating the lugs. Unfortunately, I do not know who performed this repair or I would forward the name to you. At any rate, repairing it is well worth the trouble if that is a Mauser banner action.
 
Posts: 11137 | Location: Texas, USA | Registered: 22 September 2003Reply With Quote
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