some things are already determined...300 H&H, douglas barrel, Enfield P-17 action (highly modified).

A cherished friend (who is highly qualified) is going to build this from the ground up as a project between good friends.

What would you want done? What kind of wood, scope mounts, scope, details, etc?

Yukon Delta,
Tell us what you are going to use it for. Do you intend to incorporate iron sights as well? Will it be used in Alaska as a day in day out rifle ( assumed that by the name). I have some more to offer but would like to hear that first.

[ 08-11-2002, 07:14: Message edited by: Customstox ]

Are you going to hunt with this rifle or simply enjoy it for its artistic qualities? This is the first question to ask yourself, and it's the most important question of them all. Personally, I'd build a .300 H&H exactly like I'd build a rifle chambered for my favorite cartridge, the .300 Winchester: I'd build it for FUNCTION FIRST, as if it's the only rifle I'll ever own, and cutesy, fluffy, disfuctional cosmetic treatments don't deserve my consideration or my investment.

If you want to hunt with it and you'd prefer a wood-stocked rifle over a synthetic, get out one of Jack O'Connor's books and look up one of his Al Biesen rifles. This is the classic, functional, near-perfect form for a great custom sporting rifle that will actually get used as intended. Forget the new-age/old-age/art-rifle/1930s-era British-style stuff: It's outdated and without functional purpose. Open sights are sort of like tits on a side of bacon for a rifle chambered in a great general-purpose/long-range cartridge such as the .300 H&H. You don't need them.

An original pre-1964 Model 70 action that was originally a .300 H&H is an ideal foundation. Also, buy good, old, well-seasoned wood and avoid the newly-cut green stuff at all costs. Avoid "traditional" oil (linseed or tung, for example) finishes and rust blue jobs. If your stockmaker isn't using an inter-cellular wood sealer and a tough synthetic exterior finish that fills the pores completely, he's not the guy to hire for the task at hand - not for a hunting rifle.

yukon delta---

I'd buy a Remington Model 30s in 300 H&H and have your 'smith rebarrel and/or restock if needed.

It's the P-17 action done up right and the stock is the closest to an English Express rifle ever built by a large company. The stocks are too low for a scope, though.

Allen,

Rust bluing is far tougher than caustic bluing. You should know that by now. If you dont advise rust bluing what then? Spray on baking lacquer? What metal finish?

Allen, my fiend, you are confusing personal preferences with function. I understand your dislike for the British pancake cheek pieces and that is just a preference and nothing else. A cheek piece is not even needed on a rifle and whether the bottom line extends towards the top of the grip or curves upwards has no importance in the least. I happen to like them, and I do like the other style and that is all it is.

Rust blued finishes are used on custom rifles and they also get the nod for those people who want a finish that will last. They are so much more durable than any caustic blue job that it isn't even worth discussing. The next time I do one I will rust blue a piece of metal and supply you with that and a caustic blued piece and you can test it yourself. Drop some diluted muriatic acid and watch the caustic finish disappear immediately and notice that there is little effect on the other. Enuf of that. I think you got a bad job or you mentioned that to me and have based the industry on that one instance.

Gunstock finishes have come a long ways since the 1800's but it is more in the materials than anythng else. I would not use boiled linseed oil or pure tung oil but I would sure use polymer modified tung oil products and do. The one shot spray finishes are easier. Not necessarily any more durable, they are just easier and cheaper to apply. Biesens are no longer using Imron from some recent information but only because of a supply problem. Now is it a spray on minwax urethane finish from a can. Wood gunstocks survived the ravages of weather for more years than you and I have been alive and will continue to in the future. When done properly they result in a well sealed handle, when done imporperly, any finish will not do as it is intended.

I totally agree with you on the green wood. I have purchased wood that was described as "Robins were landing in it two weeks ago" and that wood sat in my shop for from 6 to 9 years before it was used. That is not a minimum but I check the dryness by weighing it on a fairly sensitive scale. It does not get used until the weight is totally stable for at least 9 months and I prefer more. A lot of my wood is over 10 years old now but I do have a few 3 year old pieces from Preslik. the one I bought in 2001 has lost 10 ounces since then and they said it was cut 2 years before. I rather doubt that but they do not date the cut on the blank which they should. The two I bought last year have lost nothing in the 6 months and I got the same two year story. The other thing I do is take any finish off the surface if the seller has put any on there. The ends should be sealed with a good wax but the surfaces dry. If you are buying green wood, you should get a cut in the price. If the price is for ready to use, then it should be and often isn't. The safest way is for the customer to buy it himself or deal with a stockmaker who he does trust who keeps a good supply with moisture/date documentation (mine is handwritten on the blank). My oldest piece was cut in 1986.

Chic

Good followup questions guys...I have rifles suitable for daily use in Alaska...what I'm wanting here is a classic caliber in walnut/blue by a personal friend who has produced some fine stuff (the only thing else I'll say about him is that Steven Dodd Hughes had him do several barrels on intricate projects in time past).

The gun will be hunted but it won't be a daily use type rifle. I just want something classy that will have sentimental value but will also be hunted when the mood strikes me. Other than that, I don't have any strong preferences for this rifle.

Your thoughts? I'm open to your suggestions.

Yukon Delta,
The last P 17 I saw that was being made into a custom rifle was in Maurice Ottmar's shop. The metalwork was done by Tom Burgess and you had a very tough time recognizing it. Tom had built the bottom metal and a number of other gems on it. It had a 3 position safety and was chambered for .404 jeffrey. This was one of two big bores that Maurice got in exchange from Tom for some stockwork. I actually believe it was two stocks. If I had a dream rifle on this action, I would have a Krieger barrel, somewhat heavier weight, with a quarter rib and a hooded front sight. Custom bottom metal from Jim Wisner (Precise Metalsmithing Enterprises). I would use quick detach rings and 6 months ago I would have said Talley but they are not in the ball park with Morris Melani's rings. These are a quarter turn (either direction) cam lobed rings and I would have the bases custom made and then I would have Doug Turnbull color case harden the rings and bases and the bolt shroud. The main screw on the center of the lever would be nitre blued. I would also color case the quarter rib and the front barrel band sight and hood. The rest of the metal would be slow rust blued.

I would use a nice piece of English Walnut with an ebony forend tip. Two screw or even skeleton grip cap ( they aren't difficult and look great)and a Declerator pad. I would use two screw inletted sling swivel studs on a slight pedestal. Oil finish with BennMatte or Seafin Teak oil, but it would be hand rubbed to a soft luster. I would top it with a 2.5 to 8 Leupold VarixIII. I would have a very small amount of engraving, mainly some inlaid gold wire lines.

What did I forget????? Trigger, we should make this thing go boom.

Melani Rings (www.melaniprecision.com)