Got a new 7mm-08 Savage 11/111 with the plastic stock. Stock is so flimsy it feel like a 10$ BB gun stock.
I went to shoot the gun with the other rifles which all held the usual under an inch group at 100 yards and the Savage would not hold paper and the bullets would not group. The bedding screw kept coming loose after a few shots even the next day and locktight unit. Did not have a scope to try but with the screw coming loose it went bk to Savage. Hopefully I will get a tack driver back and not something with a cylinder bore.

With the stock being so flimsy it was suggested on another forum to either get a Boyd's stock or rebed and reinforce the forearm with the barrel still free floated. Last rifles I did were done in 83 and were Chet Brown's old fiberglass stocks.

What is the best way to bed and reinforce the plastic stock? Are there "how to" articles on the board or utubes to look at?

How to you bond the Accugel to the plastic? I can see a possible bonding issue.

Thanks for the help.

JimD

I’ve found I need a mechanical bond on the plastic stocks

Easy DIY: Epoxy in the forend void. Add fibreglass or steel rod for strength but it's not needed. Shoe polish for release agent on barrel if you bed the barrel. Tape the screw hole. etc. simple stuff and fun to do.

As far as the schticknum part goes. Mask off the stock and sandblast all of the bedding areas. Once sandblasted, the bedding seems to stick pretty damned good. Half the problem is getting off the release agent left from the molding and breaking up the mirror finish on the plastic. Then everything works much better.

I sometimes drill holes at various angles where I'm going to bed. That way it has a mechanical "lock" to help hold it in place.

I have another fix for the tupperware stocks and it seems to work well. Tools required; a screwdriver.
Step one: Remove the original stock.
Step two: Carefully place it into your trash receptacle.
Step three; Install a wood stock of any type.
Step four; Enjoy a real rifle stock.

Yeah..well...I'm partial to wood so I use finished Boyd's stocks...they're relatively cheap and not much mucking about to get fitted...MUCH quicker and easier than DIY and much, MUCH quicker and easier than "fixing" that plastic POS...I have a trash can full of savage plastic stocks outside my shop.

That being said...I treat plastic stocks the same way I do any other stock as far as stiffening goes. JB weld with a 1/4-3/8" piece of all thread embedded in it with a couple sets of nut/washer/nut at various points, full length of the forearm, recoil lug embedded at the same time. Drill/mill/gouge out the cross stiffeners so the rod will fit. Fill the stock full of foam to dampen the hollow sound.

I also pillar bed the rear screw. Sometimes I'v milled bedding blocks for the recoil lug/front mount screw and even milled out a compete bedding block from the rear screw to whatever amount is available in front of the front mount screw. That was a LOT of milling and cutting and I don't think it made much difference in accuracy/stiffness...BUT...Getting a metal to metal screw/receiver/stock lock will do wonders for the accuracy. I've also embedded/glued some 0.030" SS shim material plates to "box in" the mag box and stiffen the thin mag sidewalls. This also works very well on laminated stocks as the laminae in those areas are very thin and and prone to splitting on very hare recoiling large cals.

I bought an Axis when the first came out and no matter how hard I tried I COULDN'T get that stock to stiffen up, especially in the grip area so I just tossed the stock and pieced out the rest. When Boyd's came out with their Axis stock I was first in line...now that Axis receiver is sitting in a nice laminated stock and is now a 375 JDJ and shoots better than I can hold.

Plastic stocks can be made to shoot very well...it just takes work...there are lots of input all over AR and many other forums on DIY Savage stock "fixups".

LUCK

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
I have another fix for the tupperware stocks and it seems to work well. Tools required; a screwdriver.
Step one: Remove the original stock.
Step two: Carefully place it into your trash receptacle.
Step three; Install a wood stock of any type.
Step four; Enjoy a real rifle stock.

WHOA NOW GRANPA !
Remember yer heart condition.
LMAO ROFF

Does yours have the AccuStock? https://www.ebay.com/itm/new-s...8:g:VbEAAOSwYxBaOpPs

If not this is a great solution. Solid Aluminum bedding.

quote:

Originally posted by JimTx:
Got a new 7mm-08 Savage 11/111 with the plastic stock. Stock is so flimsy it feel like a 10$ BB gun stock.
I went to shoot the gun with the other rifles which all held the usual under an inch group at 100 yards and the Savage would not hold paper and the bullets would not group. The bedding screw kept coming loose after a few shots even the next day and locktight unit. Did not have a scope to try but with the screw coming loose it went bk to Savage. Hopefully I will get a tack driver back and not something with a cylinder bore.

With the stock being so flimsy it was suggested on another forum to either get a Boyd's stock or rebed and reinforce the forearm with the barrel still free floated. Last rifles I did were done in 83 and were Chet Brown's old fiberglass stocks.

What is the best way to bed and reinforce the plastic stock? Are there "how to" articles on the board or utubes to look at?

How to you bond the Accugel to the plastic? I can see a possible bonding issue.

Thanks for the help.

JimD

I can remember when the first synthetic stocks first came out.

Still looking for some ideas and "how to's" to redo the stock for something to do.

First I need a gun that will shoot like my son's old Savage Model 11/111. It has a lot more solid sock except it is in left hand.

I took on a challenge one time that I could make a factory Remington 700 magnum rifle with plastic stock accurate (defined as less than moa to 300 yards, on demand, 5 shot groups, fired rapidly without cooling) without rebarreling and without true "blueprinting" of the action. i.e. things that could be done by a home gunsmith without cost or specialized tooling. I acquired a suitable action, a factory tupperware stock, and I had access to as many new takeoff barrels as I wanted from a colleague that used new rifles to build customs.

I began by taking a new 300 win mag barrel and installing it on the action, checked headspace, put it in a HS precision stock and fired it. It shot about 1.75" consistently for 5 shot groups at 100 yards, without cooling between shots.

I borescoped it, and found that the chamber was off-center, resulting in the throat being quite heavily more into the rifling on one side than the opposite side. I set back the barrel 1/2", re-chambered, set to minimum headspace, lapped in the recoil lug to make the barrel shoulder and action parallel, and re-tested. It went to about .75 moa, 5 shot groups at 100 yards, but only if allowed to cool between shots. Otherwise, it walked diagonally, opening up the group.

I repeated with 4 barrels, until I got one that would consistently hold under .75 moa at 100 yards hot or cold shooting. The others all improved by the chamber/setback work, but walked as they heated. So, by trial and error, I finally got a good one.

Then, I put it into a tupperware stock. Accuracy went back to poor. I bedded it. Slightly better, not good enough. Relieved the forend pressure point, it helped, but still not good enough. Pillar bedded it, and glass bedded between pillars, adding fiberglass heavily in the bedding. All of a sudden, accuracy was pretty good, but inconsistent. I attributed that to the forend randomly touching as the plastic flexed up. I added a rod and fiberglass and epoxy in the forend hollow to stop the flexing, and it became about as accurate as in the HS stock.

The rifle is now a consistent, less than 1 moa, 338 win mag rifle. Required set back barrel, re-aligned and proper dimension chamber, minimal headspace, lapped square action/lug/barrel tenon, pillar bedding, glass bedding action, filled forend channel.

Was it worth it? No, I'd just buy an HS precision stock, put it in and be done with it if I wanted a synthetic stock. But, it can be done, and for not much cost other than a few dollars worth of epoxy.

BTW, in the spirit of the low-cost mods, I pillar bedded with pot metal 1/2" dia lag bolt masonry anchor shields from the hardware store, at about $.35 apiece. Filed them to approximate action shape, sanded to final fit with a piece of wet/dry on the action, and installed with a drill press and slightly oversize bit, followed up by epoxy bedding to get them to fit and be square to the action. Milled off the bottom to the bottom metal recess depth with an end mill in my drill press.

Home gun hack procedure 1.1.3, total cost of about $10 to make a "custom" accurized rifle. Only tooling needed was a 10" atlas lathe, 4 jaw chuck, steady rest, dial indicator, depth mic, floating reamer holder, chamber reamer and go gauge, a half round file, a flat file, and a couple drill bits and an end mill in the drill press. Materials needed was handfull of fiberglass insulation from a pink building material roll, some acra-glass, a tube of valve grinding compound, two 1/2" pot metal lag shields, a sheet of 120 grit wet dry paper, and a piece of 1/4" aluminum rod.

PS. To answer your queston on bonding, I didn't think the epoxy directly bonded well to the plastic, I drilled a whole bunch of holes with a 3/16" or so bit and made sure the epoxy penetrated into those holes to anchor it.

Free floating a barrel is not a cure all, its sometimes a cure all..but you need to determine what works best for every rifle before you glass bed it. I do that with shims as a rule...Its a lot of trouble but anything worth doing is worth doing right.

I bed a rifle stock wood or plastic pretty much the same..I first bed it tight all the way the test it, if its good your done, if not then releave the barrel with the three point bedding system,again test it, if that's not good, then you free float it from two inches past the front action ring to the end of the forearm..If its not shooting after that you probably need a new barrel.

Always keep in mind when bedding wood or plastic, but particularly wood, you can take material out but ya can't put it back..

Plastic is more forgiving for sure when it comes to putting it back but Ive seen many a poor bedding job with glass, gobbed glass put back, with humps and lumps and it looks sloppy, and is sloopy patching glass just looks sloopy, and the patch is at a higher level that the original glass bed best to remove most of it and start over. When finished it time to drag out the black and check the glass and scrape out the high spots, this is seldom done it seems.Just my two bits.

The Accustock Should shoot "ok", probably an issue with the bedding block and Savage will take care of it.

Should you decide to go with a laminate stock, this is a great article on how to correctly bed a receiver:

http://www.accurateshooter.com...free-pillar-bedding/