Barrel marking options

22 February 2011, 08:08

Westpac

quote:
Originally posted by blagg:
How much are these systems Doc?

Just had to have it. I bought the super kit back in December but haven't unpacked it yet.

It looks pretty simple.

http://www.etch-o-matic.biz/eom.htm

23 February 2011, 05:12

sdh600

Here is a barrel I did yesterday with my New Hermes engraver. Got it off ebay for a couple hundred dollars three years ago. Well worth the money.
Steve

24 February 2011, 11:39

ShopCartRacing

Wow, that looks outstanding. Which model Hermes do you own?

24 February 2011, 16:01

Hal H

Steve do you know what style fonts you have ?
I realy like the scroll type numbers on the 1892 .

Hal

24 February 2011, 17:03

sdh600

The engraver is the New Hermes model GM. It will do diamond drag (scratch) engraving or you can use the motor and use a rorary cutter. The pics above were with the rotary cutter.
The font style is called double line connecting script #33-337.

Steve

24 February 2011, 17:52

D Humbarger

sdh600 can you post pics of the setup with the rotary cutter in place?

24 February 2011, 17:58

sdh600

I will try to take some tonight after work.

Steve

24 February 2011, 18:05

Hal H

Steve

With the rotary cutter, do you use a High speed steel cutter ?

Hal

24 February 2011, 22:45

butchlambert

Hal,
Mine uses carbide.
Butch

25 February 2011, 05:45

sdh600

Here are some pics of my engraver. The cutters I have are high speed steel, but I would recommend carbide as mine dull very fast.

Steve

27 February 2011, 03:13

vip

I looked at the Etch-o-Matic and everything is shown on stainless or unfinished metal. Does anyone know how it looks on blued steel? And that's some nice work Steve. How long did it take you to master the Hermes?

27 February 2011, 05:26

sdh600

The hermes is simple to use. Not much learning curve at all. I tried the electro chemical etchers, both the etch-o-matic and the Marking methods pro model, without much success. The problem may have been that I was trying to make my own stencils. I think if you invest in the professionally made stencils they work much better. They will even do deep etching which should work well on a blued barrel. The problem with etching is you need a stencil for every caliber you chamber in. With the engraver you can put anything on the barrel that comes up.

Steve

27 February 2011, 05:55

D Humbarger

Is the cutter in the photo the one that you use while running the electric motor to engrave the Winchester 1892?

27 February 2011, 06:16

sdh600

quote:
Is the cutter in the photo the one that you use while running the electric motor to engrave the Winchester 1892?

I used one just like that one. The one in the picture is a spare.

Steve

27 February 2011, 06:58

Scrollcutter

send it to an engraver

Do it correctly!

27 February 2011, 23:47

butchlambert

James Anderson uses his CNC and it does really nice work.
I have a New Hermes GTX-3/ITX-3 free standing floor model.I have some carbide cutters for my motorized head, but I have only used the diamond scratching. I think I need to try the motor.
Butch

28 February 2011, 01:45

Jim Kobe

I also have a New Hermes with both the scratch and a powered head. I was wondering how the powered tip would cut on a curved surface; it seems like it was made to do flat surfaces with a standard depth of cut. The scratch works because one can hold the diamond scratch onto the material with a little pressure. I would be afraid to try the powered tip for fear the depth would not be even. Tell me I am wrong or how you could control the depth on a round (barrel) surface.

Jim

28 February 2011, 04:07

sdh600

The pictures of the engraving on the Win 92 barrel show what it looks like cutting on a curved surface. Since most of the engraving is done at the larger diameters of the barrel the thinning of the letters at the top and bottom isn't noticeable. I have done some test pieces on some half inch dia. stock and the letters do get thin at top and bottom. Consistant preasure on the cutter is the key to a good engraving.

Steve

28 February 2011, 04:08

mike cockcroft

Laser engraving looks really good on a barrel.

28 February 2011, 04:17

blagg

I use a Hermes on occasion but I dont have one. They work nicely. But they are very expensive even used! I priced out the Marking Methods system, not cheap either. There has to be something out there besides stamps. They work and I have gotten pretty good at getting them even. Stamps are just not very proffesional when you are charging a premium price for metal work.

28 February 2011, 04:44

butchlambert

If you will make an effort to call a bunch of trophy shops, you will find an affordable one. Most trophy shops have shoved them into the corner and use CNC now. I have found them this way.
Butch

28 February 2011, 05:35

D Humbarger

quote:
Originally posted by dpcd:
They don't cut on curved surfaces for more than one line unless slightly curved like a floorplate. So, you just re-position the barrel for additional lines. You control the depth of cut with the micrometer adjustment on the bottom of the cutting spindle, on my GM. You don't have to worry about depth; the micrometer head forms it's own dept guage and it rides on the surface with the cutter protruding from that, however deep you adjusted it to be. You just push down on it, against the spring. Just ALWAYS remember to put the guide pin in the font BEFORE setting the cutting spindle on the work and lift the cutter before the guide pin. Do not ask me how I know that.

You mean that when useing the motor you DON'T control the depth by the pressure you exert when holding down the red knob like you do when you just do the chicken scratch? What keeps the cutter from bouncing all over the place?

28 February 2011, 05:52

sdh600

quote:
Posted 28 February 2011 04:22 Hide Post
They don't cut on curved surfaces for more than one line unless slightly curved like a floorplate. So, you just re-position the barrel for additional lines. You control the depth of cut with the micrometer adjustment on the bottom of the cutting spindle, on my GM. You don't have to worry about depth; the micrometer head forms it's own dept guage and it rides on the surface with the cutter protruding from that, however deep you adjusted it to be. You just push down on it, against the spring. Just ALWAYS remember to put the guide pin in the font BEFORE setting the cutting spindle on the work and lift the cutter before the guide pin. Do not ask me how I know that.

Peabody Research and Consulting, LLC

I agree with all of that especially about not putting your cutter down before you are ready. I find my depth will vary a little bit if I put too much down preasure on the cutter. Have you ever tried using a burnishing tool to polish the cut grooves of the letters? A tool ground to the same angle as the cutter but without the cutting edge. Maybe run it over the lettering with some fine lapping compound. Just something I was thinking of trying.

Steve

02 March 2011, 21:24

Jim White

SDH 600
Where do you buy your cutters?
Jim

03 March 2011, 06:12

butchlambert

For New Hermes items call Carl Clouse. 972-226-3700. Carl is an elderly gentleman that was with New Hermes for many years. He is getting on in years, but should have a few fonts, cutters, and repair parts left.
Butch

03 March 2011, 17:12

sdh600

quote:
SDH 600
Where do you buy your cutters?
Jim

Jim, When I bought my engraver It came with a few of the rotary cutters. I have been resharpening and using them. I do see cutter for sale on ebay quite often.
Steve