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Plastic stokk.
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one of us
posted
Hello.
I have built me a low cost "moose-stopper" on a Mauser M98, in caliber .416 Taylor. I have used a simple "Butler creek", classic, plastic stock on it. I feel i have to do something to keep the screws trough the stokk straight in the recoil. Do'es anybody have any idea of what bedding method to use in such material. Would it help to pillar-bed, at least the screw in the back of the trigger??

[This message has been edited by 460wby (edited 07-05-2001).]

 
Posts: 736 | Location: In the deep Norwegian woods. | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
<Don G>
posted
I have never bedded one of those stocks, but someone on this forum made a suggestion that showed a lot of sense. The problem is to get the bedding to adhere to the plastic.

Use Brownell's steel bed or MarineTex or similar two-part epoxy bedding compound as normal, but prepare the area well with the type of cleaner/primer/solvent used prior to gluing the joints in ABS plastic tubing or piping. I do not know whether you use these products over there, but maybe Mats can help translate to a local product name. The surface should be well roughened prior to using the solvent. I would fill the forearm with the bedding as well, as the things seem to squirm in my hand in our hot summers and warm autumns.

I would use a small piece of stainless steel tubing at the rear screw as in the original Mausers. (I could send you a short piece if necessary.) I would also be tempted to use a crossbolt on a 416, but I do not know how practical it is to install one in that stock. (I have an ugly and pitted old military Mauser crossbolt if that would help. If I can get it out of the old stock!)

Good luck with the moose.
Don

 
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Thank you for your advice, Don G.
I have thought about the same as you regarding the crossbolt. I have one myself in the orginal military stock. I'll sertainly put in the tube around the rear bolt.
I must tell you; i was at the shooting range on friday to fireform 40 pcs .458 win.brass, with that orginal military stock with steelcap on the rear. It still hurts when i use the right arm!!
 
Posts: 736 | Location: In the deep Norwegian woods. | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
one of us
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460.

My advise would be to sell the plasic stock to a guy with a 6,5X55 or similar and buy a semi inletted laminated blank from Johnny Boberg here in Swe.

To bed a plasic stock is not a easy task, it�s even harder if the rifle is a powerfull one like your .416 taylor. The bedding useally cracs or separates from the plasic sooner or later.

The laminated blank is about 800 SEK here in Swe. It will make a very strong stock and are good looking to.

Stefan.

 
Posts: 635 | Location: Umea/Sweden | Registered: 28 October 2000Reply With Quote
one of us
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Thank you, Stefan.
There is no big secret that the laminated wood would be the best alternative here. But i have a .460wby, and a .338 RUM, both with laminated wood stocks on it, and that add's a lot of weight to the rifle. This is a rifle that i will cary around most of the day, so i don't wan't it to heavy.
A buddy of mine shoots .458WM in the same stock and i belive thats about the simular recoil, and that works fine. Because this is a low cost projekt i'll try this first. Maybe i'll go for a HS-Presision later.

------------------
Arild

 
Posts: 736 | Location: In the deep Norwegian woods. | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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