Well,...I've had it with the trigger on my L579 7-08AI.
Bought a trigger pull scale the other day, kinda like buying your first chrony,everything is not the way you thought it was/is.This Sako trigger has bugged me since I got the rifle.It won't go below about 4-1/2# and it varies by a full pound from pull to pull.My AII and AI actions have great triggers,both set at 2-1/2# and varying about 3-4 oz.If I stick the AII bolt in the L579 the pull is 3-1/2# but the inconsistency is still there.Leads me to beleive the firing pin spring on the L579 is a bit stronger,it does have bigger wire and may be aftermarket. Now I know that a Sako trigger can be put onto a '98, so will an aftermarket '98 trigger fit a
Sako? Any suggestions?

An aftermarket mauser trigger can be adapted to the Sako BUT when doing so it is necessary to reshape the nose of the cocking piece.
The geometry of the stock Sako trigger sux. The sear engagement point is often an bit too far behind the trigger pivot point. In addition the exaggerated slope on the nose of the cocking piece puts a heavy load on the sear and, consequently, on the trigger. A timney trigger with safety would work just fine. Weld up the front of the cocking piece then recut it so that it is vertical then re harden. You have to measure to be sure you get the striker travel you want (probably around 5/32"). Good luck. Regards, Bill.

rembo



That trigger is much better than the replacement avilable on the market. Hire a good gunsmith to fix it. There are people looking for the old sako triggers because of their quality and a timmey is not even close



/ JOHAN

Johan,
With all due respect, the only thing that is good about that Sako trigger is that it has a steel housing. Internally it can perhaps be best described as a really poor design fairly well executed. Or maybe great materials wasted on a poor design.

Like all off the over ridden sear type triggers it lifts the bolt up and out of alignment when the rifle is cocked. With the Sako this is exacerbated by the shallower angle on the cocking piece. This shallower angle is perhaps necessary due to the fact that the sear must be pushed straight down. This is also part of the reason for the frequently dismal pull. Since the contact surface must necessarily be behind the pivot point, the trigger must actually lift the sear up a miniscule amount to disengage. On those triggers where the contact is further back than usual it's even worse. To counteract this a bit, Sako actually angles the contact point on the trigger down a bit. This is why so many of these will fire if the bolt sleeve is tapped sharply with a stick.
Some other rifles share a portion of these shortcomings. Remington, Winchester, and Tikka come to mind. But all work better than the Sako in my opinion.
I seem awfully argumentative today, don't I? Regards, Bill.

Bill,..After looking at the trigger and playing with it for a good while I can see exactly what you mean,...not a good design.But..why the large difference from my other Sakos?...but I like everything else about the rifle.

Rembo,
I suspect mainly a variation in the location of the contact point. The further to the rear of the pivot it is, the heavier the pull will be. Alternatively, the angle on the contact surface of the trigger lever may be wrong. Regards, Bill.