Well, Squirrel season is here.. I finally got a barrel, that should have been here in early December and it shows up mid February...

I got it mounted to the action and head spaced and got the muzzle redone...via a machinist friend...

Then I go to call the gunsmith to get the barrel and action Parkerized... and told the wait would be 3.5 to 4 months right now!!!!!

So if I am going to use this rifle barrel for squirrel hunting, I am going to have to forego getting it Parkerized unit this season is over...

So between now and then, what is the best recommended way to protect the barrel against rust???

It will probably have half of its barrel life gone thru between now and then tho.. this barrel can see 5 to 6 thousand rounds thru it, between now and mid June...it is a 223..

Any suggestions would be highly appreciated...
thanks
seafire

Why not try a "do-it-yourself" job with one of the spray on - bake on finishes from Brownell's? There is probably an artist's workshop for sculptors or a metalsmith's shop in your area (the local high school or technical college) where you can bead blast the barrelled action and then your only problem will be an oven big enough to bake it in. I know of one person who convinced a pizza parlor to let him bake his barrelled action in their oven!

Keep it clean and lightly oiled and there's no reason you should have any problem. Essentially there's little difference other than asthetics between a blued barrel and an in-the-white one... not to mention that with "several thousand rounds" through it, the bore is goning to be in-the-white all the time!

RIG

picked up a tip in a swedish hunting magazine a few years ago, Turtle wax car polish!I use the wax version and have done on my blue barreled Sako for 5yrs now,another advantage is that you dont get oil all over the woodwork when cleaning either.regards Toby

I take the easy way out and buy stainless

quote:

Originally posted by oupa:
Keep it clean and lightly oiled and there's no reason you should have any problem. Essentially there's little difference other than asthetics between a blued barrel and an in-the-white one... not to mention that with "several thousand rounds" through it, the bore is goning to be in-the-white all the time!

picked up a tip in a swedish hunting magazine a few years ago, Turtle wax car polish!I use the wax version and have done on my blue barreled Sako for 5yrs now,another advantage is that you dont get oil all over the woodwork when cleaning either.regards Toby


roger

quote:

Originally posted by Fjold:
I take the easy way out and buy stainless

I did order a stainless one Frank but the order got screwed up and I was sent a chrome moly instead...and it was also sent here about 8 weeks after it should have been here...

I like the Turtle Wax suggestion and everyone will think I have a stainless one!!!

someone also suggested off forum, to spray paint it black, using spray like one would use on their grill in the back yard....

Roger, what did you do with your barrel's finish, for your Stevens??? you ended up with Chrome Moly, didn't ya???

There's a product out there called "DGF- Dry Graphite Film." Auto parts stores and hardwares usually have it. It sprays on wet and dries to a flat dark gray, and doesn't rub off easily. I used it on an unblued rifle last fall during buck season and it held up pretty well. Easy to remove, I used some Hoppes and 0000 steel wool.

Seafire - Be very cautious what you put on that barrel since the goal is to eventually color it whether blue or park. Many of these super duper rust inhibitors can be a real pain to get off - totally off as is necessary to finish the barrel! Best to use simple old gun oil - I like to use plain old drugstore grade mineral oil but even 3inOne would be safe. Stay afay from Silicone & teflon as temporary protectors.

quote:

Originally posted by seafire/B17G:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Fjold:
Roger, what did you do with your barrel's finish, for your Stevens??? you ended up with Chrome Moly, didn't ya???

Yes I did and I use oil. Blueing isn't much in the way of rust prevention. Looks nice but not necessarily utillitarian.

If it were mine, I would:
1) Wash it with simple green or similar harsh liquid detergent.
2) Rinse with hot water.
3) Dry it with paper towel in a way that does not make finger prints, but keeps it hot.
4) Rub on fresh Oxpho Blue with a clean Q-tip, never double dipping in the bottle.
5) Repeat 1 through 4.
6) Repeat 1 through 4.
7) Repeat 1 through 4.
8) Repeat 1 through 4.
9) Rub motor oil over the Oxpho Blue.
10) Wait overnight while it turns black under the oil.
11) Wash it with simple green liquid detergent.
12) Rinse with hot water.
13) Dry it with paper towel in a way that does not make finger prints, but keeps it hot.
14) Rub oil on it.

All steel can act differently, but the above process works well on Lothar Walther and Douglas Chrome Moly barrels.
Let's assume that barrels are 4140 steel and take cold blue similarly.
I have not had any complaints about how it looks or wears from others, nor do I have any complaints about the results on MY guns.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.as...072&title=OXPHO-BLUE

note: Brownells bake on lacquer finish in the kitchen oven can cause brain damage to anyone breathing in the house. Where am I?

quote:

Squirrel season is here

OMYGOD, I have nothing to wear!

I used the Krylon Flat black from their line of camoflage ultra-flat paints. Properly degreased and carefully shot, I have had many people comment on what a nice "matte blue"" job that the rifle had. I used it for the same reason you are, to tide me over till I can get it blued. Lee.

quote:

Originally posted by lee440:
I used the Krylon Flat black from their line of camoflage ultra-flat paints. Properly degreased and carefully shot, I have had many people comment on what a nice "matte blue"" job that the rifle had. I used it for the same reason you are, to tide me over till I can get it blued. Lee.

Thanks Lee...

I was thinking about that also...

But maybe even another step .. would be to just use one of the other camo paints in that line.. or even camo the barrel...that stuff is easy enough to strip off...

maybe I will try and spray an old barrel that I have, or the couple of shot out ones I have around here...

Cool....
thanks Guy!

cheers
seafire

I used black engine header paint to 'tide me over'....3 years ago. The finish looks fine, it's easy to touch up, and plenty durable. If you ever DO want to get it blued, it's a simple matter to strip off paint. Or like your last idea - just use the paint as the final finish and camo it up real nice.

I will be using a bake on finish for my next trick. I'm going to use a large piece of pipe/flue on top of a steel plate setting on the turkey fryer to create my own 'oven' and keep the fumes outside and out of the kitchen. You have a turkey fryer?

First Turtle Wax and than Sheath, search the forum, you will find a lot of good things about this product.
The best protection against rust is indeed Sheath.

Roland