I JUST GOT A MODEL 16 SAVAGE WEATHER WARRIOR. I WAS INSTALLING A SET OF LEUPOLD 2 PICE BASES AND HAD BOTH OF THE MOUNTED WHEN THE LAST MOUNTING SCREW WENT SNAP.THERE IS BARLEY A LITTLE BIT OF IT STICKING OUT OF THE HOLE. NOT ENUFF TO GET ANYTHING ON IT TO TURN IT.HOW HARD WOULD IT BE FOR A GUNSMITH TO FIX.JUST TRYING TO GET A IDEA BEFORE I CALL ONE.

loosen the other screws in the base.

you can secure the rifle on a vise, centerpunch the top of the broken screw, put a tiny drill bit in a cordless drill and drill out the screw.

very carefully.

or, loosen the other screws in the base. try epoxying an allen wrench to the top of the screw and use it to turn out the broken screw.

very carefully.

a gunsmith won't want much, I reckon.

Place the action in a milling vise, center the machine on the broken screw and drill it out, $20.00 minimum.

Just chalk it up to the cost of learning how much torque to use when installing scope mounts!

if it sticks up at all you can cut a slot in it with an ignition file and unscrew it

If you are not confident and sure what you are doing and you don't have the tools then take it to a gunsmith or machinist. You can make it worse instead of better very quickly. If it gaulded before smapping you may have more of a problem than just a broken screw. It could be a very easy and inexpensive fix or it could be a train wreck. In the future MidwayUSA is selling an inexpensive inch pound hand driver. This could save you many hours of heartache in the future. For gods sake don't clean out the threads with a solvent and not relubricate the threads. And don't use permenent or red locktite. I always use enamel. The screw can be preheated to 300 degrees with a soldering iron and the screw will easily turn out.
Longshot

If you remove the other bases and use a small centre punch and GENTLY tap it off centre in an anti clockwise direction it will likely move and can soon be gripped with pliers to finish the job.

Before you tap it try pushing your thumb or even a piece of leather or similar on to it and turning. Its surprising how often they just comne out.

If trying the centre punch idea and it doesnt work give up before you really mess it up and see a gunsmith.

These screws are small and you dont really need to wring their necks. As someone else said dont use permanent loctite.

get the whole thing retpped for 8-40's. you should have done that from the begining if it was a serious rifle.

quote:

Originally posted by KSTEPHENS:
get the whole thing retpped for 8-40's. you should have done that from the begining if it was a serious rifle.

Though 8x40 screws are more resistant to severe handling than stock 6X48's, they are not necessary in every case. I've seen plenty of rifles and scope mounts withstand some rather heavy abuse with 6x48 screws holding them to the receiver.

As with "any" screw, the key is to start with quality screws, clean threads and avoid over tightening them. If after a period of use, you need to remove the base, use fresh screws when reattaching it. Fresh quality screws are cheap insurance.

What Crusher said.

More than likely the screw will be very easy to back out (unless it's cross threaded)

Easiest way to re-slot the screw is with a high speed hand grinder and a little carbide dental burr.

good luck

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP AND ADVICE.LUCKLY I GOT HOOKED UP WITH A LOCAL GUNSMITH. AND HE SAID HE COULD TAKE CARE OF IT EASY

Tin Can has the correct solution for broken screws . Here is a tip , if you don't want to screw anything up or take it to a gun smith .

I have over the course of Several years broken more screws than most all of you combined !.

Not in Fire Arms ( thank Somebody ) though .

Heres a cheap and effective method of removal .

First very carefully wipe the screw and gun area with lacquer thinner or acetone I prefer the latter . Next determine if the screw sticks up above the surface . If so and it's not large enough to grasp with locking pliers DON'T Mess with it !!.
Now cut a piece or two of duct tape with a small hole ( screw size ) you can punch it or cut it . Place it over the screw take a file ( Carefully ) flatten the screw body . Now grab a nail and file or grind the end flat as close to dia. as screw . Wipe both with acetone use Devcon Epoxy . Just a pin head amount place them together allow to dry . I bend my nails over at 90 degrees before I start and support them with a block of wood or tape plastic what ever works .
Never had one that wouldn't come out . If they're rusted in , use same procedure except allow Max drying time for epoxy , then apply Kroil let set for 24 hours . If that doesn't work it's drill out or ultra sonic or plasma removal , by a professional . I've used this method on 2-56 - 1/4 " screws . Epoxy Good Epoxy is always handy to have around .
Personally I have found that a small amount of a removable type thread locker and a small ( for small screws ) screw driver prevents these problems .
But with the cheap importation of near everything some times shit happens ...

quote:

If that doesn't work it's drill out or ultra sound out , by a professional

Dr.K, I just had an ultra sound done and left the hospital with everything still intact so now I am curious how one uses "ultra sound" to remove a broken screw from it's hole?

That was a misprint by me . Sorry I corrected it !. There are a few different means by which to remove unwanted screws or dissimilar metals !. EDM is also a method although totally uncalled for as well as price prohibitive . I had a friend who did a very delicate job for me some years back who used a Laser . Dam thing cut a hole .005 of a human hair !. Couldn't even see it with the naked eye !. ...