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Browning T-bolt with Saltwood
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Picture of BigBullet
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I have a Browning T-bolt with Saltwood which has created rust on the barrel and receiver. Any recommendations on what to do now. How do I gently remove the rust and is there any hope for the stock?

Worse (or best) part is the rifle is an absolute tack driver and I would really like to continue shooting this rifle.

Your help is greatly appreciated.

John


BigBullet

"Half the FUN of the travel is the esthetic of LOSTNESS" Ray Bradbury
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Posts: 1224 | Location: Lorraine, NY New York's little piece of frozen tundra | Registered: 05 July 2003Reply With Quote
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I don't know of any way to salvage(remove salt) the stock. I would get a new stock(Boyds?). Depending on the severity of the rusting I would either use steel wool and KANO or immerse in Metal White(bluing/rust remover), then re-blue.
 
Posts: 4 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 13 December 2014Reply With Quote
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There are some rust removers on the market Then reblue.
I don't know how well sealers workon a salted stock You might just count on getting a new stock.
 
Posts: 7636 | Registered: 10 October 2002Reply With Quote
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I always thought those T bolts were cool rifles, but were priced out of my reach at that time.

Anyway, somewhat non-traditional but you could have your rifle coated with one of the many products out there now instead of having it reblued, then as mentioned finish the stock with a sealer for good measure.


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Posts: 7777 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
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If you want to remove the rust and salvage the blueing try liberally applying "Kroil" to it, even let it set overnight (a penetrating rust inhibitor oil)and with very fine steel wool and Kroil simply buff off the rust, if it is not pitted you will be amazed at what comes off.
Then shop for new wood.
 
Posts: 5604 | Location: Eastern plains of Colorado | Registered: 31 October 2005Reply With Quote
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Try sealing the wood with an epoxy or poly sealer to prevent the wood from contacting the metal. You might have to remove some wood, to completely separate the metal from the wood, with an inert thing, like epoxy bedding. I had a Ruger #1 like that in 1976; never did stop the problem.
As for the metal, treat it as any rusted metal; remove it and live with the pitting, or polish and completely re-blue.
 
Posts: 17385 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Happy to say no pitting as of yet, just some surface rust along the wood line. I do like the idea of completely epoxy bedding it. Thanks for the help guys, I've got it soaking in Kroil now.


BigBullet

"Half the FUN of the travel is the esthetic of LOSTNESS" Ray Bradbury
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Posts: 1224 | Location: Lorraine, NY New York's little piece of frozen tundra | Registered: 05 July 2003Reply With Quote
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Only for sure method is replace the stock. Many places that replace the salt wood stocks with destroy the old one so it can't be sold to an unsuspecting buyer
 
Posts: 167 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 16 January 2005Reply With Quote
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I like the epoxy idea. I use it for lots of things. Sand wood off and brush on a coat of epoxy mix.


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Posts: 3419 | Location: Kamloops, BC | Registered: 09 November 2015Reply With Quote
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There was a gunsmith that did a lot of work on the salt wood guns. He did an extensive write-up(I will try to find it).

What I do recall from the article was that he said NOT to reblue. He said that rebluing seemed to exacerbate the rusting.


Jason

"You're not hard-core, unless you live hard-core."
_______________________

Hunting in Africa is an adventure. The number of variables involved preclude the possibility of a perfect hunt. Some problems will arise. How you decide to handle them will determine how much you enjoy your hunt.

Just tell yourself, "it's all part of the adventure." Remember, if Robert Ruark had gotten upset every time problems with Harry
Selby's flat bed truck delayed the safari, Horn of the Hunter would have read like an indictment of Selby. But Ruark rolled with the punches, poured some gin, and enjoyed the adventure.

-Jason Brown
 
Posts: 6842 | Location: Nome, Alaska(formerly SW Wyoming) | Registered: 22 December 2003Reply With Quote
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Out of a sample of one,the epoxy treatment has worked for about 10 years now.

The rust on the underside of the barrel was not that bad so it cleaned up easy.
 
Posts: 1371 | Location: Plains,TEXAS | Registered: 14 January 2008Reply With Quote
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I've heard and seen spalted wood but never salted wood or salt wood.

What is it and why was it ever used?

I've lived a sheltered life,
Zeke
 
Posts: 2270 | Registered: 27 October 2011Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by ZekeShikar:
I've heard and seen spalted wood but never salted wood or salt wood.

What is it and why was it ever used?

I've lived a sheltered life,
Zeke


There was a salting process that would cure the wood faster than kiln drying. Some have reported that the blanks were packed in rock salt.

I spoke to a plant manager at one of the walnut dealers who supplied the "salt wood" blanks and he told me that it was not "salt" but rather a chemical compound that contained sodium. He said that the compound was specified by Browning.


Jason

"You're not hard-core, unless you live hard-core."
_______________________

Hunting in Africa is an adventure. The number of variables involved preclude the possibility of a perfect hunt. Some problems will arise. How you decide to handle them will determine how much you enjoy your hunt.

Just tell yourself, "it's all part of the adventure." Remember, if Robert Ruark had gotten upset every time problems with Harry
Selby's flat bed truck delayed the safari, Horn of the Hunter would have read like an indictment of Selby. But Ruark rolled with the punches, poured some gin, and enjoyed the adventure.

-Jason Brown
 
Posts: 6842 | Location: Nome, Alaska(formerly SW Wyoming) | Registered: 22 December 2003Reply With Quote
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Art's Gun Shop, had a write on salt wood and recommended throw it away and put a new stock on, of course he did most of Browning repairs on salt guns
 
Posts: 369 | Location: lee' summit missouri | Registered: 06 January 2003Reply With Quote
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There is another method of drying which in effect a large microwave . Yes it works and also has been used on smaller scale to quickly dry pieces of wood for knife handles.
Using your kitchen microwave will do it.
Larger units are needed for rifle stocks with necessary machinery and large amounts of electric power. The power was probably the reason for not using it.
 
Posts: 7636 | Registered: 10 October 2002Reply With Quote
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