16 December 2004, 17:07
jeffeossoRe: m70 classic feed rail split
HFS!
jeffe
16 December 2004, 14:51
todbartelltake a look at the pics
A one inch long crack has been growing rearward on this stainless Model 70 Classic in 375 H&H Mag. This rifle was bought new in 2001.
Anybody seen this happen before? Any way to fix it?
16 December 2004, 14:57
BradThat rifle needs to go back to USRAC for replacement...
16 December 2004, 15:14
craigsterI would have sent that rifle back to USRAC at the
first hint of a crack
anywhere in the action, much less the feed rail. Makes me wonder about the rest of the steel in that particular receiver.
16 December 2004, 15:36
djpaintlesI'm going to check mine right now................DJ
16 December 2004, 16:09
todbartellthis condition appeared after the rifle's barrel was fluted by a gunsmith, as best to my knowledge (rifle belongs to a friend)
would that void any warranty work by WInchester?
16 December 2004, 16:22
djpaintlesYou need to check and see what type of action wrench the Gunsmith who fluted the barrel used. Some of them used improperly could be what broke the rail......DJ
16 December 2004, 17:21
GSP7I wondering what that spot is just past the feed ramp in the lug resess ,too??
16 December 2004, 17:37
RSYThat spot isn't in the lug recesses, it's on the 6-o'clock of the coned breech that Model 70s have. Looks like a wear mark from the noses of rounds being fed from the magazine and chambered. Still, questionable and, most likely, the sign of some defect in materials.
RSY
16 December 2004, 18:33
Bill LeeperIt looks to me like an inside action wrench was used on the action and it was the wrench which cracked the anti-bind rail. When an inside wrench is made for use in the winchester waction, it has to be relieved at the root of the right hand lug so as to avoid this kind of damage. I just don't use an inside wrench on Winchesters. That rail is relatively fragile and I've seen a few broken just like that. It is possible to float silver solder into the crack to repair it. Not an ideal situation but it keeps the piece from breaking right out. Because the rail is so thin, it's possible to solder it without overheating the lug abutment. I have done this in the past. An alternative (and probably better)would be to "V" out the crack and have it TIG welded with ss then clean it up. A welder who is used to working with small parts could do a pretty good job of the welding then a gunsmith could get everthing working again. I think I'm safe in saying you can forget about warranty! Regards, Bill.
16 December 2004, 20:48
todbartellthanks for your input guys, especially you Mr. Leeper, I will pass the info along to my buddy.
tb
17 December 2004, 02:31
Marc_StokeldI would say your buddy is totally SOL on the split rail. If the smith used a T-handle style wrench that entered through the rear of the action, this could be caused by him. Surely USRAC will say so. Your friend needs to have a very serious heart to heart talk with the guy who fluted the barrel. He needs to make this right.