I am looking for suggestions for cutting oil for use with a barrel flush system in chambering a barrel. Has anyone used Rustlick 5050 water soluable oil? I know about 255R but it only comes in 5 gallon buckets and that would last me for 10+ years since I do 4-5 barrels a year. Any advice is appreciated!!!

don, I have been using ridgid nu-clear, and it worked ok, but i then add 1/3 auto tran. fluid to it, it now flows better and the chambers come out looking better, I also raised my rpms to 115 and that also made a differance.
gerald

Ive used sulphur based cutting oils.van

i use valcool good water soluble and no foam. it is by the 5 gal size there is some stuff out the called accu lube 2000 that comes by the gallon the works if you dont use it lots i would get away from the water soluble and use cool tool II

For 4-5 barrels annually it can't be that much an issue I'd think.....I still lube from the chamber and retract often...at least every .100. I really like a product called "cool tool II"....not the best way I know but it works and the reamers never get hot and don't chatter.

My post is to let you know that the most important product in water soluble oils is (believe it or not) the water. In some parts of the country there is high levels of sulphur inthe water and after a time the fluids actually become heavy in sulfuric acid!!! It stinks and must be discarded.

If you're having trouble with this merely use RO water and don't blame the oil at all!

In the old days in which I did production machining sulphurized cutting oils worked the best. However the stuff stinks and the smell never goes away from your skin or clothes. To make your reaming job more pleasant use a hand lotion heavy in glycerine and mineral oil.

I use plain old HWI ( Hardware) black pipe thread cutting oil.

I use Cool Mist formula 77 coolant mixed 20:1 out of a house plant spray bottle on most mill and lathe work with steel.

I just let Alluminum get hot and scream with no coolant.

I use Sulfered cutting oil for chamber reaming. It stinks, gets on the me, the floor, and the wall.

I wash chips off reamers with 50/50 motor oil gasoline and a toothbrush.

I use Tap Magic for shotgun choke muzzle thread tapping and rifle receiver drill and tapping for scope mounts

I have a gallon of SOL soluable oil, but I hate the smell and it irritates my skin. It mixes with water to a fluresant baby blue color. I never use it any more.

I use 255R with good results. If you use water soluble mix it heavy. I know it says you can mix 20 to 50 but I mix mine about 5:1 to 10:1. Go ahead and buy the five gallons and you won't ever need to buy any more. You can also split it with someone. The sump life on 255 is great also, I've had a batch mixed up for a year now. I just add water when it gets low.

If the coolant gets between the vise and the table of the mill, it will cause some rust.

This drives my brother nuts, and there is never a vise left on his mill.

Once I dial in a vise on my mill, it stays there.
When the vise comes off, I will stone off the coolant caused rust.

Nick Hughes could not have said it any better.

Rustlick 255R is an extreme presure lubricant/coolant. I use it mixed 5:1 with distilled water at 30-125 psi in a high presure flush system. I filter it through a 2 micron water filter. 25 gallons has lasted over 3 years. I do about 400 chambers per year. I would say it is relatively mild on the skin, cleans up nicely. It is a synthetic so it does not get rancid. It will spray everywhere if your system gets a leak in it.
Longshot