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Help! Need to shorten riflestock
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<inspector>
posted
I need to shorten my Stock on My Browning White Gold Medallion (270). I am wondering how to sand the recoil pad to get a perfect fit without damaging the finish on the Rifle.
I have airdrum sanders, belt sanders, etc. Every time I have attempted to do this in the past I had to refinish the stock. I hope some one knows a way to do this (and will tell me). I will have to shorten the stock by approx. 1" to have scope acquisition. (old age is stiffening my neck). Thanks in advance.--Roy
 
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Fitting a pad "CORRECTLY" is an art.

You will need some masking tape on the stock,and then an disc sander to work closely to the stock to pad fit.

Very few stock workers can really do teh job right, so be careful. Youmight want to check aroudn to see who will do it for you.

 
Posts: 3991 | Location: Hudsonville MI USA | Registered: 08 June 2000Reply With Quote
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My gunsmith charges all of $25 to do this, if you have a gun with a nice finish I would suggest you let some one with experience do it.
If you do it yourself, I believe it helps to freeze the pad.
 
Posts: 1317 | Location: eastern Iowa | Registered: 13 December 2000Reply With Quote
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Yes freezing it will make it easier to shape. I use the fliment type shipping tape instead of masking tape. It will handle a little oops better than masking tape. Take it close and finsh the last bit of the base by hand. For $25 have it done it isn't worth the sweat.
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Inspector,
I use a 12" disc on the final sanding but use a stationary belt on the first. Like Terry said use some masking tape. But be aware that the tape will not protect the stock from the sandpaper. Use it as a gauge. It will be very tough to get it so you don't leave a slight edge. After you get it trimmed as close as you can, loosen the screws and press the pad to one side as much as you can. Check the difference and then grind that side. Move it back to center and check again. Hopefully the one side is flush and the other has a slight lip. Then do the same on the other side. You will have to do the same thing up and down to get the heel and the toe. I can get them so you can't feel the difference, but be aware you might make a slight error and not be so lucky.

Chic Worthing

 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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I put a guide on my table model belt sander. It is a bar of steel that was for a table attachment used with the belt vertical. I set the belt horizontal and placed the bar just a hair above the level of the belt. Also had to adjust the wheel down to be lower than the table.
Use the tape and the bar together. Makes it very easy to get it right as the stock is your guide.
 
Posts: 813 | Location: Left Coast | Registered: 02 November 2000Reply With Quote
<sure-shot>
posted
I use a 6" table disc sander, I wrap one layer of 10 mil plumbers tape. I leave the lower guard on the sander and have a light mounted about 12" above the disc so I can really see how close I'm grinding. I finish the last .010"-.015" by block sanding in the sink with cold soapy water.(liquid dish soap) sure-shot
 
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<sure-shot>
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I use a 6" table disc sander, I wrap one layer of 10 mil plumbers tape. I leave the lower guard on the sander and have a light mounted about 12" above the disc so I can really see how close I'm grinding. I finish the last .010"-.015" by block sanding in the sink with cold soapy water.(liquid dish soap) sure-shot

[This message has been edited by sure-shot (edited 01-16-2002).]

 
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<sure-shot>
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oops, sorry I goofed it
 
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