Yup...just bought a used Interarms Whitworth Mark X with the full-length stock chambered for 7x57 in beautiful condition. Need to adjust the trigger--lighten the pull. Does anyone have a diagram of the factory adjustable trigger you can post? Or, tell me what each of the 3 screws does? Thanks.

Dan

A cousin of mine has a Mark V in 243 and the trigger was horrible. I told him to give it to me and I'd either figure out how to adjust it or take it to the gunsmith and have a trigger job done for $25 or $30 and Merry Christmas. Wrong. No adjustment possible by me and the 'smith said the only safe adjustment available was an aftermarket trigger. So I had him install a Bold, which works very well. Turned into a pretty nice Christmas present for the little ingrate.

I don't know if the Interarms Whitworth Mark V's (or even Mark V's newer than my cousin's) have the same trigger. Hopefully, for your sake, they changed them. Even if not, an aftermarket trigger and installation isn't really much $$ and is worth every penny. Good luck. -WSJ

WSJ,

Thanks for your response. However, your post leads me to think you're talking about a Weatherby rifle. My Whitworth is a rifle made in Manchester, England using the Zastava mauser action. They quit making them some years back. I've always coveted one with the mannlicher-style stock and finally found one in pristine condition. Thanks again anyway.

Dan

Dan: It is adjustable. I'll look around to see if I have a diagram, but I usually just look at the trigger and it's evident which screw does what.

Someone who is more of an expert should answer but I'm pretty much positive the cheaper run of later MarkX's did not have adjustable triggers.
Were they Viscount? I don't remember.

The one you described does, as the action I have at home. It is definitly adjustable.

JD and Mike,

There's no question it's adjustable. The 3 main screws have red lacquer sealant on the nuts--look like they've never been touched. Trigger is breaking at about 4.5 lbs now--too heavy for my tastes. There is actually a 4th screw on the trigger unit also, a smaller one without sealant, but it looks to me like it controls overtravel of the trigger. I know the pull weight adjustment is one of the 3 with the sealant; just don't know which one. If no can tell me which screw is which, I'll just start foolin' with 'em and see what happens.

Dan

Yes some of the later MK X had a non adjustable single stage trigger much like the military 98 except it had a side safety. There is 4 screws. The one in the back should be over travel. The little one on the trigger pivot is the adjustment for the saftey. I should be in as far as possible but still aloow the safety to be engaged. If you change the sear this will have to be readjusted. The other two are the sear engagement and pull weight. You should be able to tell by looking which is which. I don't trust my memory. I will check tonight.

dhersrud: Nope, I was referring to an Interarms Mrak V in my post. But from Ramrod340's post, it sounds like it's the newer, cheaper ones that have the non-adjustable trigger, which my cousin's surely did. I can't say whether his was a Viscount or not.

And it also sounds like there are several folks who can tell you how to adjust yours. Good luck. -WSJ

Either de Haas's "Bolt Action Rifles" or Kuhnhausen's "Mauser Bolt Action" shop manual will tell you how to do it.

There are some differences in that Kuhnhausen gives you specific numbers for minimum sear engagement while de Haas is a little more trial-and-error. They also give you a different order to make the adjustments in, as I recall.

On mine, the sear wore to a point where it wouldn't reliably engage the cocking piece, so I tossed it and put in a Timney Featherweight Deluxe. The Timney doesn't have the bolt lock that the factory safety does, but it also isn't as fussy to adjust correctly as the factory unit which I didn't find positive enough anyway.

Dan,
I shouldn't have trusted my memory. The interarms trigger does in fact have 4 screws. The one on the bottom back is the over travel. I adjust that screwing it in until the trigger won't pull and then backing it out until it will. The top screw on the back is the sear engagement turning it in reduces the engagement and reduces creep. The top screw on the front is the trigger pull turning it out reduces pull. I st both where I want it and check to see if impact will set it off. I strike the action with a plastic mallet or hit the butt on the floor. If the trigger releases you need to increase one or the other or both. Often it is a trade off you either end up with a little creep or a little heavier pull than you want. A ggood smith could hone the sear for you. The small screw on the front of the trigger at the pivot is the safety. You want it in as far as possible while allowing the safety to engage.

Ramrod,

I finally spent some time last night playing with it! Your instructions are correct. I discovered each screw's function by messin' with them one at a time. Then, I worked with the sear engagement and pull weight together until I now have a better trigger feel than I had before...a little bit too much creep, but breaking at about 3 pounds. Much better than it was, but still not satisfactory. I believe I will buy a Timney, pop it in there, and be done with it. Thanks to all for your responses!

Dan

I've used the Bold Trigger with good results.

[ 08-23-2002, 19:39: Message edited by: ramrod340 ]