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I am going to get a real custom. However, after doing research for that I thought it would be really neat for me to try to attempt. I am mechanically inclined so I'm not to scared by all that. Just sythetic stocks -- for now at least. The question is -- where do I start -- what do I need? If I have to buy all kinds of expensive equipment that's one thing. If I only have to buy cheap ones that's another. Anyways -- I look forward to the help, and I am serious about this -- not just wasting anyones time. Serious answers are appreciated. Much obliged, Seth | ||
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Oh yeah -- I have no idea if it's too hard or not -- just simply asking. Thanks | |||
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Seth, Are you talking both metal and stock work or one or the other? Metal work takes time. Time to learn the fundamentals and time to refine and experiment with your skills. If you don't have the proper training and skills with metal work you will be not only a liability to others, but yourself. In the shop, at the range, and in the field. Look into basic and advanced machine shop courses if this interests you. Synthetic stocks are really very easy to fit and finish to your rifle. Similar to building a plastic scale model as far as the skill set needed. The time and effort you put into it will reflect in your finished product. Assuming an unfinished blank you'll need some hand tools including a variety of chisels, rasps, and files. Small detail oriented rasps and files. For barrel channels I like and use the gunline barrel channel tool (I think they call it a bedding tool), and it works well on glass stocks too. Lots of abrasive paper as well as learning how to fill and finish fiberglass. You can paint and prime with a rattle can or a spray gun set up. The spay set up will give better results. But that is another skill that has to be learned and refined. You may want to look into one of the summer gunsmith programs that the NRA organizes with a few of the gunsmithing programs around the country. The topics offered run the gammit from wood stocks to armorer classes. I know for certain that they are offered in Trinidad, CO and Susanville, CA. I believe that there is one in Pennsylvania as well. | |||
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David, First off thanks so much for your response. Well I don't know what to think right now that's why I'm asking for y'alls help. I suppose I would like to be able to build my own gun from an existing action. Basically a custom gun by myself. I've got time. OR If that is all too much I would at least like to be able to make my factory rifles better. I looked online for some books, and I was kind of overwhelmed. Any good recommendations for that? Thanks David... And believe me -- I would never shoot a gun unless I was 1,000,000% sure it was safe. I am not brave enough to trust myself that much. | |||
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Seth, What i would suggest for a first project is to buy a mauser action, such as a VZ24 and get one of the Adams and Bennet stock/barrel combos from Midway. Unfortunately you should have posted this last week since midway had a stock/barrel combo on sale for $79. Add a $100 action and you are good to go. Oh yeah, a bit of elbow grease there too, but you'll be able to do everything except barrel and headspace, and if you made the tools you could rebarrel it too. It is an easy way to test the waters, and not much money which you could recover most of should you need to sell it before it was finished. Anyway, my 2 cents worth. for every hour in front of the computer you should have 3 hours outside | |||
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Seth, I think that stock work is you best bang for the buck to get you started down the custom road. Meaning minimal tool investment compared to metal work and skills you can learn on your own. Here is an example of a Custom Rifle that fellow AR member DJPaintles did his own stock work on. There are a few good books out on stockmaking such as David Wesbrook's book. You can find these at Brownells. To nurture your interest I invite you to travel to the ACGG exhibition in Reno. This years is past and I couldn't make it, but already I am looking foward to next year. It will blow your mind! | |||
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Mark -- that's kind of the road I was wanting to go down. Just something very basic at first -- I am not naive to the fact that I won't start on the most complex stuff first. Could you explain that project a little further. Also I'm not against getting the tools I have to use to do more complex stuff. David I was looking to buy some tools if they aren't outrageous. Thanks again... | |||
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Seth I have a 4 tape set from AGI entitled "Building the Custom Mauser Rifle". It won't teach you how to use a milling machine or a lathe. But it provides you with a wealth of knowledge that would otherwise take a long time to accumulate. I paid about $60 for the set, and I believe you can still find it on AGI's web site. It is well worth the money for anyone who wants to try their hand at customizing military actions into sporting rifles. http://www.americangunsmith.com/ | |||
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22 thanks for the help -- I'll have to get those. I also like to have books for some reason. I guess I learn better that way. Any really good rifle gunsmithing books you guys would recommend? | |||
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YES: 1. Professional Stockmaking by David Wesbrook 2. Gun Digest Book of Riflesmithing by Jack Mitchell. I would also recommend the books Modern Custom Guns and Mastery of Wood and Metal, both by Tom Turpin, and Custom Rifles in Black and White by Steven Dodd Hughes. These three books are not instruction books, but they offer very good photographs to study. I would also suggest the book Mauser Bolt Rifles by Ludwig Olson | |||
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Because custom rifles cost more, people going after their first often want the rifle to cover multiple discipines of shooting. A true custom is specific to its need. First and most important is to define the project. What do you want it to do when it is finished? Whether it is a bench gun, varmint, big game or whatever, define what you want it to do first. The custom rifles for those specific purposes are quite different. Free men should not be subjected to permits, paperwork and taxation in order to carry any firearm. NRA Benefactor | |||
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22 -- Thanks again... 30378 -- I suppose if I was going to do a gun I would do it for whitetail -- like for my dad or brother or something -- 30-06 or the like. I would much rather stick to synthetic stocks now, and work my way up. | |||
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22-I sent you a pm asking you about the videos. Here it is: Alright I bought it. Could you give me a materials list for building along with him. I'd like to do a 30-06 if that's possible. So which mauser action? Tools etc... I'm planning on a synthetic stock so which ever one of them you recommend as well. I appreciate your willingness to help in this. | |||
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Seth the America Custom Gunmakers Guild also has some good resources you can buy direct from them. ACGG As far as actions, it would be easier to use a find a pre-64 M70 in .30-06 or .270 and use that as your foundation. Not to knock Mausers as I am really fond of them, but they take more work ($$$) to modify them into a different chambering. There will be less metal work to do on a pre-64 as the magazine box, follower, and feed rails are properly designed for those cartridges to start with. As is the rest of the receiver. Add Williams one piece bottom metal and a nice barrel and you will have a nice rig ready for any hunting that comes your way. You can pick up a mauser for $100-$200 and put another $500 into it or pick a pre 64 M70 and be ready to go as far as metal work is concerned. | |||
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Without getting into "serious" metal work the 30-06 is too long for a Mauser. the Mauser military guns are based around 57mm case length, the 30-06 is 62 or 63mm. You will need to reajust the feed lips in the action, fit a new longer box and probably do some feed ramp adjustment behind the lower lug seat. If you go with a mauser, there is nothing wrong with any of the Nx57 rounds. 8x57, will shoot right with a 30-06, no problem. If you are going to build a deer rifle 7x57 or 6.5x57 are also excelant calibers. The 6.5 is flat shooting, easy recoiling, and has good long range capabilities and penetration do to high SD's. Easilly a 300 yard deer killer. That settels it, you talked me right into my next rifle project; 6.5x57 it is! right after I get finished with the 7x57 seudo-scout rifle. Rusty's Action Works Montross VA. Action work for Cowboy Shooters & Manufacturer of Stylized Rigby rifle sights. http://i61.photobucket.com/alb.../th_isofrontleft.jpg | |||
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After doing further research I have come to the conclusion the mauser would be too dificult for me. The more input the better. I appreciate everyones help. | |||
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Get an 03 C&R FFL. Buy old beater milsurps to practice on. I have 15? various milsurps from Enfields to Mausers to Mosin-Nagants. Milsurps are real good for practicing stock refinishing, minor gunsmithing and rebluing. Any type of repair you wouldn't dare to try on your favorite deer rifle. If you mess something up, and I have, it's no big deal. From the top Rifles 2,3 and 5 were some of my earlier efforts. The Mosin M44 at the bottom was my first attempt ever. Not near as good as some of the folks here that do it for a living, but good enough for me. They hold up pretty good in the field too. ZM | |||
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From what I have read so far, I would recommend a Remington 700 action for your rifle. Yes it is bland but every manufactuer of any kind of whistle and or bell you want to hang on it will be available. You can get barrels, stocks, sights, mounts, and other custom equipment which for the Remmy action are all more readily available. In my opinion the 30-06 is a great choice. While not optimum for everything, it will take any animal on the North American continent. Just a suggested recipe for you: Remington Action Shilen 30-06 barrel with contour of your spec Jewell trigger set at about 12oz 6.5x20 Leupold scope & rings Bell & Carlson stock w/aluminum bedding block Free men should not be subjected to permits, paperwork and taxation in order to carry any firearm. NRA Benefactor | |||
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Great help -- I love it all. | |||
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This could go on forever... | |||
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"Fudgepack Mountain" -- excellent... | |||
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Seth, I just built my first Mauser. I think the Mauser is the easiest action to start with because it is fairly inexpensive and the breech style allows you to hand-chamber a pre-threaded, short-chambered barrel (like the Adams and Bennett barrels on midway.com) without having to have a lathe or milling machine. Please find the article from the August American Rifleman called 'Build Your Own Custom Rifle' by Bryce Towsley; that's what inspired me. It has the tools list, too. Jerry Kuhnhausen's book "The Mauser Bolt Actions: A Shop Manual" is also very useful. Buy one of the Charles Daly Zastava Actions, and you don't have to mess with a bunch of metal work. It also gives you enough length to fit the 30.06. If you use a military surplus action (like I did) you'll want an angle grinder to take down the loading flange, a Wheeler Engineering Drill and Tap kit for scope mounts, and a Wheeler bolt welding jig with a heat sink and welder's paste to weld on a new bolt handle. This is in addition to the stuff in the American Rifleman article. It's all relatively inexpensive. But with the other action, you avoid this on the first project. I've got two left-handed Charles Daly Mausers I'm going to do next. Hope this helps. Steve | |||
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It depends on HOW custom you want to go. If you're really into it, you could invest in "desktop CNC" gear to do metalwork, and design an action in a CAD/CAM package... then figure out how to have the machine mill and lathe the parts out of heat-treated stock. It's possible... but probably not worth the heartburn! NRA Life Member testa virtus magna minimum | |||
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