I am thinking about applying a finish to 1 or 2 handguns I use of CCW. I need a finish that is rust resistant and durable. So far I have been leaning toward Robar's "Roguard" finish. Does anyone have any experiance/tips/storys about appying finishes to guns? Thanks.

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Even the strongest oak must bend to the winds of fate.

Theebadone
I have no idea.
I just had to comment on the amazing cowboy
- Never heard that one before , right?

// Jens

I have experience with two Robar finishes. Roguard was slick to the touch. I did not care for the way it felt. NP3 is nice because it is self lubricating. My friend has a Glock that has the barrel and slide done in NP3. He runs it dry. Cleanup is a breeze. He wipes it out with a dry rag. My all time favorite handgun finish is hard chrome. I have found nothing else that can compare to it. I have always sent my guns out to be refinished.

[This message has been edited by jack2 (edited 01-05-2002).]

I finished a rifle with a Brownell's teflon epoxy finish (?gunkote, I think it was). I didn't sandblast, but had a slightly roughened surface to begin with. I cleaned with acetone as recommended, applied, and baked; the finished product would come off with a fingernail, and maybe by breathing on it too. I would hope a commercially applied finish would be better -- but you never know. At least make sure it's parkerized first, I've heard that this increases durability.

Myself, back to bluing...

Good luck,
Todd

I had one rifle finished in Robar some years ago. It was an Interarms Mini-Mark X. The bolt was finished in the stainless steel or gray colored Robar product (can't recall what they call it). The coating on the bolt did not last well. Actually, I was surprised at how easily it flaked in places that were not necessarily wear areas. Obviously however, my experience with the product is limited.

For the past several years I have been using KG GunKote and really like it. You can apply it yourself if you like You will need a beat blast gun and air compressor(using 'bout 120 grit alum oxide as I recall), an oven to heat the gun in (wife's oven works great on handguns!) and if you want to do the job right, a small phosphating or parkerizing kit (if you are coating ferrous metal surfaces). Another alternative is to have Mac's Shootin Iron apply the KG finish or 10-ring Precision, owned by Alexander Hamilton. "10-Ring" sort of specializes in applying the KG to handguns and from what I have read to an excellent job. I have used Mac's for application of KG to some small parts and the service was outstanding. Both businesses are on the web.

If you choose KG GunKote and have someone apply it, whoever you use, be sure that they parkerize or phosphate the sand blasted surface too. With the KG applied on top of the phosphated finish, the rust and corrosion resistance is about as good as you can get and adhesion of the phenolic resin is outstanding. Of course, phosphating does not apply aluminum or other non-ferrous surfaces. With those surfaces, you just mechanically etch and then apply the stuff.

Also, whoever does your work be sure that they use the proper blasting media. KG recommends against mere glass bead blasting. Apparently it does not sufficiently etch the metal surface for optimum adhesion. You will need to check KG's web site (or Ten-Ring precision) to confirm which blasting media they recommend. As stated above, I think they recommend 120 grit alum oxide.

KG comes in quite a few colors. It is a less expensive alternative to teflon but is very wear and corrosion resistance. It may even be better than professionally applied teflon, but I am not certain about that. By the way, it is much better than say, Brownell's baking lacquer and similar low tech products.

Jordan

I have used the KG Gun-Kote on several rifles. I did not phosphate or parkerize as Jordan suggested but applied as directed. No problems so far, pretty tough with excellent rust protection. I made an oven out of a 55gal drum, Celo-tex insulation and two 250watt infra-red heat lamps, temps are verified by a barbecue thermometer and infra-red temp gun(Ray-Tek). Be sure your 120grit oxide is used exclusively for this purpose as you do not want contamination from blasting other materials. Always degrease before blasting will help too. sure-shot

I just returned from Phoenix (on holiday) and stopped at the Robar office. I was impressed with their finishes, and will use the Rogard finish on my .416 Taylor Ruger M77. The black satin finish is more durable than the matte finish. The have a phosphate treatment prior to the application of the final finish, I beleive this is what make it so durable. I will have the "internals" finished in NP3. What impressed me the most was the fact that they give you a "lifetime guarantee" on the finish. (who's lifetime I don't know but they have been around for some time) I needed something to withstand salt spray, so I think this is going to work out the best for me.

JB