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Super-Glue For Stock Repair
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Picture of Nitroman
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I purchased a milsurp rifle which has fantastic wood, far too nice to sport the rifle. Unfortunately the goombah's at UPS thoughtfully dropped the box such that the impact was directly on the toe. It cracked through the grip and at the toe.
It is my intention to try to blow Super-Glue into the crack from both sides to heal this wound. It is much too tight to get epoxy in. Once healed, I was going to install a bolt thorugh the wrist to prevent a recurrence.

Has anyone used Super-Glue in this manner?

Thanks.
 
Posts: 1844 | Location: Southwest Alaska | Registered: 28 February 2001Reply With Quote
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epoxy warmed should inject... superglue is brittle... bad news

jeffe
 
Posts: 40548 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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I bought a 99% Pre-64 Alaskan in .338 which had the typical cracked stock, so, the price was very good. I took it to my gunstore and left it there while I went downtown. The "gunsmith" decided to "do me a favour" and "repaired" the stock with superglue.......in a few months, it dried out and the stock split along the old cracks although I never fired the rifle.

I have repaired a couple of these with "Microbed" worked in with needles and a single edge razor blade, it is easy and it works.

Note: The 'smith in question no longer is employed at the store I deal at; I let it go because he is a genuinely nice guy who honestly thought he was doing me a favour.BUT, superglue is for fixing china ornaments, not riflestocks!!!
 
Posts: 619 | Registered: 18 December 2003Reply With Quote
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If you really want to salvage it, and aren't confident that your work will hold up, I met a nice guy at a show in January who goes by the nickname stock doctor. he does work for Westley Richards, and worked for Kimber. His specialty is repairing damaged stocks. At the very least I think that if you contacted him he would be willing to give you his take on repairing it.

Just one more thought for you to ponder over.

Red
 
Posts: 4742 | Location: Fresno, CA | Registered: 21 March 2003Reply With Quote
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Gentlemen,

Thank you for your replies. I have the Acra-Glas gel, I will look around for the liquid and maybe order some to have on hand.

Dago, I wonder what the fellow charges?
 
Posts: 1844 | Location: Southwest Alaska | Registered: 28 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Gel is in the gree box and liquid is in the red box...Where there is one there should be the other..or order it from brownell...and many hdwe. stores carrey two part liquid glass of one kind or another...Most are good..
 
Posts: 42384 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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I would follow the advice given about using liquid Acraglass with one added twist (if it applies). If you can drill a hole from the inside (inletting) of the stock that intersects the crack then you are in good shape. Do so using a drill that is about .005" larger than a hardwood dowel that you have on hand. A 1/4" dowel and an "F" drill bit are a good choice. Put liquid acraglass in the hole you just drilled being careful to not trap a bunch of air under the epoxy. Coat the dowel lightly with 'glass and insert it in the hole. A steady pressure against the dowel will force the 'glass (under hydraulic pressure) out through the crack from the inside. You can just cut the dowel off flush and leave it in place. I have used this method with great success with Acraglass at room temperature. One thing to consider, heat is a catalyst in chemical reactions. Acraglass will exhibit a reduced pot life (the time that the glue remains liquid, before it thickens to the point that it is unworkable for this type of use) if you heat it. Good luck with your repair!
 
Posts: 57 | Location: North Central Washington | Registered: 19 June 2003Reply With Quote
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