Im thinking about getting my 300 Win Mag glass bedded. I have two choices; Brownell's GlasBed or Brownell's Acruglas Gel. I know the GlasBed works on kevlar and synthetic stocks, I dont know if Acurglas Gel does. How good does glass bedding help? And should I get my rifle pillar bedded? They sell little aluminum "pillars" for pillars bedding for relatively cheap. Id have both procedures done by a gunsmith. So, what are the pros and cons of each process? I just thought that spending about 50 dollars to get it glass bedded and pillar bedded would be a lot cheaper than a new 400 dollar stock.

Are you going to buy the kit yourself and take it to a gunsmith? Normally, a gunsmith will charge $150-250 for glass and pillar bed. He will also probably use his prefered brand of bedding compound.

But to answer you question I have used both types of glass and both work ok. I prefer the steel bedding compounds now though.

Jim

Yes, I was thinking about buying my own glass bed kit and my own pillar bed kit and bring it all to him. The Stainless Steel Remington M700 Pillar Bedding kit is 30 bucks and the Brownells Glasbed (black) kit is 16 dollars... both prices are from the Brownell's catalog. I can find the Brownells Glasbed kit for 12 dollars at Midway USA. And about you liking the steel compound better, that would be the Acruglas right? Because I havent found anything saying you can mix atomized metal in with their Glasbed mix.

David,
I prefer the original Acraglas to either the glasbed or the gel. It is more difficult to work with but I think it is a superior material.
As far as the aluminum pillars are concerned they are fine but I don't know that they are all that much better than glass pillars in the end. Sometimes they are a little difficult to install stress free.
As I said, the original Acraglas is a bit more difficult to use but should be no problem for any experienced gunsmith and it lasts longer and resists chemicals better than the others. Regards, Bill.

In rereading your post it occurs to me that you may have a 700 with the synthetic stock. For these I prefer the gel because it is more flexible like the stock. I really kind of think that bedding these stocks may well be an exercise in futility. Aluminum pillars would be fine if they were molded into the stock or thermally bonded.
In a recent trip to Potlatch Idaho (my old home town)I avoided Troy by taking a shortcut over Thompson Pass to Wallace and then on through St Mary's. Only added 2 hours to the trip but avoided the town that sucks! Regards, Bill.

Here is what I am talking about, from the brownells web site:

STEEL BED
STAINLESS STEEL-FILLED EPOXY, RIFLE-BEDDING COMPOUND

20 Minute Working Time (at 70� F)
Ultimate Steel-Bearing Bedding Compound for Wood & Fiberglass Stocks
Proven to Win and To Last in International Competition by Military & Civilian Shooters
72% Stainless Steel for Superior Bedding Strength
100%, Skin-Tight, Stock-To-Metal Fit
Shrinks Less Than 1/10 of 1%
No-Run Formula
What is STEEL BED? Simply the most advanced, toughest ever bedding and stabilizing, steel-bearing, epoxy compound for wood and fiberglass gun stocks. Designed specifically for GUNS, to give the incredible impact resistance that's possible only by surrounding the action with a layer of solid, never-rust stainless steel and the skin-tight, epoxy-matrix fit so vital for superb accuracy. Through a unique blending process, there's actually more stainless steel (by weight) than epoxy in STEEL BED 2� times more steel than in competitive products.
STEEL BED shrinks less than 1/10 of 1% and won't compress, crumble or "sugar" under the most punishing magnum or semi-auto recoil. Fiberglass stockmakers use it to support the recoil lugs of their lightweight mountain rifles. Military armorers and civilian shooters use it under the most grueling conditions without breakdown or deterioration.
We tested and abused STEEL BED every way possible and, once we were convinced of its amazing superiority, test samples went to armorers, gunsmiths and competitive shooters. They tested STEEL BED in "real life" situations. It met and exceeded every demand made of it! Group sizes got smaller. All the guns tested: semi-autos; 1000 yard, bolt action match rifles; benchrest guns and hunting rifles performed better after bedding with STEEL BED. In addition, scores of gunsmiths found that STEEL BED made the best form fitting vise jaws; was superb for strengthening barrel channels and made short work of repairing jigs and fixtures, too.
STEEL BED really is the ultimate, steel-bearing bedding compound. Besides being incredibly strong and tough, it's very easy to use. The mixing ratio is a simple, 1-part Resin to 1-part Hardener, by volume, and the creamy, no-run texture means STEEL BED will stay where it's put.

STEEL BED KIT - (1) 1� fl. oz. (44.35 ml) net contents jar Resin; (1) 1� fl. oz. (44.35 ml) net contents jar Hardener; (1) 7/8 oz. (25.87 ml) net contents jar ACRA-RELEASE™ Release Agent; (1) Measuring Spoon, (1) re-useable Poly Mixing Dish, (2) Mixing Sticks (1) Brown Dye Pak, (1) Black Dye Pak and (2) Release Agent Applicators; Instructions.

Me having a synthetic stock, does that mean that glass bedding of any kind (including steel bedding) would be kind of pointless. The glass bedding wont ever change, warp, or whatever but the stock itself is flexible. Does that matter? And I guess youre right about the aluminum or steel pillars, probably wouldnt hold well enough considering they were not molded in as part of the process. I like the way that steel compound sounds. Thanx for all the help so far.

David,
There is a real problem in getting any kind of bedding compound to adhere to the plastic, injection molded stocks. These are not to be confused with true fiberglas stocks. I have tried all kinds of solvents and primers and still have never been really happy with the results. Everybody ends up simply roughing up the surface as well as possible and hoping for the best which is none too good.
My choice of bedding compounds for the purpose is based only on my over 30 years experience in using them and on tests we did in the 70s to compare resistance to cleaning solvents. While I think steel bed is a fine material and has it's place it is just not my first choice.
When it comes to the plastic stocks I have no real choice but think the nylon based Gel is better than most just because it matches the composition of the stock. Still doesn't stick well though. Regards, Bill.

FWIW I have had decent luck with synthetic stocks by drilling lots of small holes in the recoil lug and tang area as well as in the first inch or so of the barrel channel, particularily trying to do so at slight angles and then bedding with Brownells Steel Bed. There may not be much of a chemical bonding occuring, but the forcing of the steel Bed material into the off-set holes provides a pretty ridgid mechanical bond. To date, I've built a couple of big kickers this way with second recoil lugs and they have not broken after a few hundred rounds. Pilar bedding these things has not met my standards.-Rob

Would I have better luck with a fiberglass stock? I've always wanted a McMillan USMC camo stock, its called the M1A40 or something like that. Raised comb and everything. Its the same one the MARINES use on their sniper rifles. Does glass bedding compounds adhere to fiberglass stocks? And I think the McMillan stock might already have piller bedding.

Best idea have heard yet You will have much better "luck" with a McMillan stock.
They do not come with pillars, but the stocks are second to none. Get it Pillar glass bedded and you will have the best available.

I too prefer the old Acraglass to the gel, for the same reasons as listed above. I use a thickening agent in it that makes it much easier to use, while keeping it's supierior strength and chemical resistance.

I don't use the gel for anything. It just is not up to my standards for bedding.

I always use a steel bed for the recoil lug and action area. Not Brownell steel bed either. I use Bisonite. It was developed for the US Army shooting team for bedding thier M-21's (M-14's)
It is as hard as rock.

The hole drilling and random roughing is the only wat to get anything to stick to those nasty injection molded stocks. Tried many different things, but nothing works well as I would like.
I always cut a groove at the top of the area where I'm bedding on those stocks. It helps keep the glass from breaking at the top.

FWIW,
Celt

[ 07-25-2002, 06:33: Message edited by: Celt ]

Thanx guys, you all have been a great help. My new course of action: save up for McMillan stock, ceremonially burn old POS injection molded remington stock, get new McMillan stock glass pillar bedded with steel bedding around recoil lug. Thanx for the help.