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Re: Mauser 98 Newbie is Very Confused
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Picture of vapodog
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there's only one way to learn this silly game of making a rifle and that's to just do it.....so keep at it and ask questions as you need.
 
Posts: 28849 | Location: western Nebraska | Registered: 27 May 2003Reply With Quote
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Picture of Kory
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Quote:

there's only one way to learn this silly game of making a rifle and that's to just do it.....so keep at it and ask questions as you need.




Vapodog,

I did the file test on the fron receiver ring and it cuts it like butta. Again, you're right, I don't think this puppy is case hardened. You don't think it will be a problem do you?

I know the modern Remington 700 actions are not hardened either, but I suspect they used better alloys then the turks did in 1938. Jerry Kuhnhausen makes such a big deal about not breaking through the case hardening that he's got me loosing sleep. I wanted to know what your thoughts are about this.

Also, how the heck do you lap the inside lug? It the one behind the ring that touches the barrel. I think all of the fixtures I've seen just lap the outside ring. I suppose I can make an expanding lap, but that would be a lot of work.

Thanks,
Kory
 
Posts: 860 | Location: Montana | Registered: 16 August 2004Reply With Quote
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The lug seats are lapped by using a spring loaded fixture that pushes on the bolt face. Lapping compound is placed on the back of the bolt lugs and the bolt is rotated with the fixture putting pressure aganst the lugs. The idea is to mate the 2 parts (bolt and receiver) so that you have even bearing contact between the 2 sides. The 3rd or safety lug should NOT make contact with the receiver BTW.
The lug seats (and other wear points) are "Pack carberized" (case hardened), the rest of the receiver isn't.
The barrel seating face (inner ring) is cut just enough to be square to the threads. The receiver face ring dosn't need to contact the barrel shank, although most smiths machine the barrel shank for contact with both surfaces when tight (contacting only the receiver face only is not acceptable workmanship).
 
Posts: 2124 | Location: Whittemore, MI, USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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My brother and I each got a Turk Mauser in 1999 at BIG5 for $50.

We decided to sporterize them.

5 years later we have spent $15k on tools and $3k for extra Mausers, and we are happy we did.



But if you don't love the Mauser design and love sporterizing them, it is not worth the money.



But if you are not a REAL gun nut, you can get by with a 30-06, a 12 gauge, and a .22 rifle.



But if you don't love hunting, just buy your meat at the store.



picture of home made mandrel and 38 Turk receiver that just got faced
 
Posts: 2249 | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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