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Barrel channel water sealer
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<MOA>
posted
I just floated a barrel on one of my laminated stock rifles. Now I need to seal the exposed wood-- can someone suggest a product that will work good for what I need to do?
 
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<JBelk>
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Spar varnish thinned with MS or turpentine.
 
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Picture of Bob338
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Spar varnish thinned 50/50 with white gas is what I use. However, several very knowledgeable shooters I know advocate Crazy Glue.

[ 03-13-2003, 23:26: Message edited by: Bob338 ]
 
Posts: 1261 | Location: Placerville, CA, US of A | Registered: 07 January 2001Reply With Quote
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Think Safety. Ever seen a gasoline vapor explosion???

I have. Really changes your mind about using gasoline for any reason, either as a solvent or to thin finishes. Does not take much to set it off, a Dremel Tool will do it.(Brush arcing). Gas vapors are heavier than air, and have a habit of setteling in a low spot, or being blown into a cavity by a slight breeze, like under a work bench.

Some things that will set the gas vapor off: A pilot light, like on that gas water heater in the garage, grinding sparks, cigarett butt, electric drill, droping a steel object on a concrete floor, and many other odd things.

I saw a whole parking lot drain system taken out many years ago: Some fool in a garage threw some old gas in the storm drain. A few hours later a poor gent tossed a cigarett in a drain several hundred feet away.

Locally, Last year a garage burned down, fire caused by a open pail of gasoline on the garage floor, the water heater pilot set the vapors off.

And about 4 weeks ago, a body shop here had a fire, caused by lacquer thinner fumes, set off by a disk grinder.

Be safe, use Mineral Spirits as Jack recommends.

Another thing to think about if you are a smoker and use butane lighters and operate welding or cutting equipment: More than one individual had a surprise when the butane lighter exploded, caused by a slight leak on the lighter being ignited by a spark or a torch flame. One gent had the lighter in his shirt pocket, and died from flame inhalation.

[ 03-14-2003, 06:12: Message edited by: John Ricks ]
 
Posts: 1055 | Location: Real Sasquatch Country!!! I Seen 'Em! | Registered: 16 January 2001Reply With Quote
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Permalyn Sealer from Brownells.
Fast drying, deep penetrating.
Impervious to water, weathering, chemicals and abrasion.
 
Posts: 4799 | Location: Lehigh county, PA | Registered: 17 October 2002Reply With Quote
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I have used two methods with success. The first is Tru-Oil(2 coats), sand and follow with polyurethane.The second is 15 minute epoxy. Just squeeze about 4 inches of the two components out and mix without whipping air into into it. I fold it together with a strip of plastic cut from an old credit card. Then, using a small brush, paint it on like varnish. It dries into an absolutely waterproof coating and in only 15-20 minutes vs hours/days! Make sure you mask off any areas you don't want it to go. Polyurethane and Epoxy are the only two coatings that are truely waterproof. Spar varnish is pretty good though.
 
Posts: 3913 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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I like plain old Flecto Varathane in the old orange can..It is the most waterproof finish I know of, I don't cut it as it is plenty thin...It takes longer to dry by the way..about 2 or 3 coats is plenty...
 
Posts: 42375 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Try Johnsons Paste Floor Wax. I've used it for years and works well on barrel channels and on the blue surface of a weapon in weather. Just an idea from an ol fart.
 
Posts: 2 | Location: Buda, Texas | Registered: 17 March 2003Reply With Quote
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