I want to try my first fiberglass bedding job on a Vanguard 270 wsm. I have a gunsmithing book with fairly detailed instructions. What is the best kit to use. The auther of the book mentions that the best he has used is Brownells Acraglas Gel. Opinions and tips will be greatly appreciated.
loud pipes save lives
Posts: 100 | Location: New Enterprise PA | Registered: 09 December 2006
AcraGlas Gel is my bedding compound of choice. Some like MarineTex and that is good too. There are many out there but you can't go wrong with AcraGlas Gel.
"I ask, sir, what is the Militia? It is the whole people. To disarm the people is the best and most effective way to enslave them" - George Mason, co-author of the Second Amendment during the Virginia convention to ratify the Constitution
Posts: 1699 | Location: San Antonio, TX | Registered: 14 April 2004
Try headless stock makers long screws for setting up and bedding (Brownells) . Or buy appropriate bolts in the hardware store and cut off the head. If the screws are tight when removing them just use vise grips on the shank. Use "Kiwi" neutral shoe wax for release agent. If you use acraglass gel add stainless steel powder after mixing for a better result.
Recoil lug and bedding are not a problem. Use the Acra-glass released agent on the screws and inside the screw holes. Recommend using two applications and then an additional preventive measure is to coat the screw and inside screw holes with Johnson wax, vaseline or wheel bearing grease. I have used this for years and works great. One thing to remember is once the recoil lug and trigger guard screw are initially tightened, leave them along and don't go back twenty minutes later and re-tighten.
Focus on the leading edge!
Posts: 453 | Location: Louisiana by way of Alaska | Registered: 02 November 2004
The gun is a tackdriver shooting 1/2-3/4 100 yard groups with the 110 grain V-max and h4350,but the last time i was at the range the action actually shifted in the stock causing big groups, If i tighten the action bolts any tighter it binds and dosnt shoot good. the Barrel channel is floated so when it shifts i can easily see a bigger gap on one side. I held the barrel in the center of the barrel channel as i retightened an it shot good again but then shifted after about 10 rounds. The screws dont seem to be working loose so im hoping the glass bed fixes the problem.
loud pipes save lives
Posts: 100 | Location: New Enterprise PA | Registered: 09 December 2006
he few times I bedded an action (blew it the last time- not enough compound) I wrapped the screws in teflon plumbers tape, then gave them a coat of spray-on release agent.
Posts: 3314 | Location: NYC | Registered: 18 April 2005
Originally posted by Benwillweit: If i tighten the action bolts any tighter it binds and dosnt shoot good.
The cure for this is to add pillars. Bedding alone won't cut it. The pillars will provide vertical stability while the epoxy will keep things from shifting about under recoil. The two go hand in hand.
_______________________________________________________________________________ This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
Recoil lug and bedding are not a problem. Use the Acra-glass released agent on the screws and inside the screw holes. Recommend using two applications and then an additional preventive measure is to coat the screw and inside screw holes with Johnson wax, vaseline or wheel bearing grease.
quote:
The cure for this is to add pillars. Bedding alone won't cut it. The pillars will provide vertical stability while the epoxy will keep things from shifting about under recoil. The two go hand in hand.
CONCUR!
Brownell's has all of these things except Johnson's paste wax and you can get that from Wally World. Pillars are a breeze if you have a lathe. If you don't, you can buy the ready-made from Brownell's but thy're pricey (IMO). If you have or have access to a lathe, measure the distance of the magazine mortice and add about .003" to it and turn them out of 5/8" aluminum round stock. No lathe? Rough cut to length (from 5/8" Aluminum barstock, Ace Hardware) drill them out for a loose fit of the screws and file them to length. You'll have to take a 5/8" bit and bore out (very carefully cause you don't want to hit the finished part of the stock) the guard screw holes for the pillars. LIBERALLY smear the inside hole of the pillars and the receiver/floorplate/barrel with wax. LIBERALLY smear everything (but the INSIDE of the pillars and the metal parts with glass and screw (not screw up) the whole shebang together. Oh, yeah, use modeling clay to fill the magazine well and the trigger mortise. Use masking tape or 5 mil plumbers tape to cover the outside of the stock right to the edge of the inletting so you don't have to re-finish the stock after you chisel all the glass off it. I suggest that you bed the cylindrical portion (about 1 1/2"-2") of the barrel and float it from there out. Use the same tape to mask off the portion of the barrel you don't want touching the forearm. Let it set for 24 hours and attempt to loosen the guard screws. If they won't budge, fear not! Take an impact wrench with a very close fitting bit and whack 'em, they come loose if you put release agent in all the right places. Turn the assembly upside down, resting the toe of the buttstock on the carpet (anything soft) and tap the underside of the muzzle with a soft hammer or rubber mallet until the barreled action comes out of the stock.
An awful lot of advice (maybe some unwanted), ain't it? But, I have done a few (hundred) of them.
"I ask, sir, what is the Militia? It is the whole people. To disarm the people is the best and most effective way to enslave them" - George Mason, co-author of the Second Amendment during the Virginia convention to ratify the Constitution
Posts: 1699 | Location: San Antonio, TX | Registered: 14 April 2004
