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one of us |
I need to install a banded front sight. Specifically, how do I do this without getting solder all over the adjacent metal? In general though what is the/your procedure for soldering parts on? | ||
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one of us |
I don't know how to solder without getting it on the adjacent metal. It's not worth the bother as it cleans up very easily. I flux both pieces with a grease base flux by heating the parts sizzle hot and applying the flux with 0000 steel wool. I then apply the solder and wipe off the excess with the steel wool that I used to apply the solder. Now that you have the parts throughly tinned with solder, let them cool so you can handle them. Assemble the parts. Reheat and reapply solder until the solder starts flowing out from under the sight. Wipe off the excess again and let cool. After the parts are cool, I sandblast the solder off of the exterior of the metal and repolish. Just one man's method. I'm sure that there are others that work as well, or better. | |||
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one of us |
I've installed a bucket full of banded front ramps and barrel band swivel bases and usually get more solder on the barrel than under the parts. I do this intentionally and use excess solder to make sure the joint is absolutely, 100% soldered with no gaps. A perfectly soldered joint is a joy to behold (gunsmiths are easily amused), but gaps look bad and cause problems when rust bluing. Excess solder is easy to remove. I use abrasive cloth & scrapers to remove excess solder. One of Jerry Fisher's inletting scrapers or a small, sharp chisel is good for cleaning next the the sight base. I use Brownells Force 44 solder (96% tin & 4% silver) and use an old fashioned soldering iron or copper to tin the parts & barrel and to flow solder around the joint. Roger | |||
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one of us |
Thanks Gents! That's the info I needed. Makes sense that more is better and I'm sure you are right that removal of the excess solder is easy. | |||
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