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Rec Montana RH LA CM yesterday. Well done !!

Wally
 
Posts: 472 | Location: Oregon | Registered: 08 March 2002Reply With Quote
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So, give us the lowdown on it. a good, objective opinion. What's good, what could be better? I'm almost convinced to get the Ghost kit from Acrabond and would like to hear more about the action. Thanks

Karl
 
Posts: 18 | Location: Colorado | Registered: 27 August 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by wallyw:
Rec Montana RH LA CM yesterday. Well done !!

Wally

Is this something that you recently ordered, or has it been on backorder for quite a while? Just curious because they have been available for a long time.
 
Posts: 1021 | Location: Prineville, OR 97754 | Registered: 14 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Operating the bolt reminds me of of the feel and sound of older SAKO or 1909 Argentine. Bolt fits raceway tightly but little sign of binding when I deliberately push off center.

Dykem on the bolt lugs revealed 100% contact. I will thread a barrel stub and fit a mandril to check critical alignments though at first sight and based on others' critique hardly seems necessary.

Finish above stockline is superb with very little stoning necessary IMO. Just one little handling mark on trigger guard and one small one right rear of receiver. I don't see the need to polish below stockline. However some customers may want that done.

Previously someone complained about opposed gas vents in front ring being at stockline. Given superb Mauser/Winchester breeching fully supporting case ahead of extractor groove little risk of stock damage in the event of blown case.

Bottom metal is superb though Matt's might be a little nicer [Wink] Had I purchase this bottom metal seperately for a couple of hundred to upgrade a Winchester I would not have been disappointed however.

I ordered this action last week. Montana receiveved my check on Monday and the action arrived here in Oregon Wednesday.

Someome has described this action as a good platform upon which to build a fine rifle. You could spend a little time honing and polishing below the stockline.

However, I believe it is superior in every way to older FN and SAKO actions I can no longer readily find.

Wally
 
Posts: 472 | Location: Oregon | Registered: 08 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Wallyw,
Thank you very much, we have a fine crew here that is very quality conscience. I am very happy that you are pleased with your action. If you ever need anything please let us know.

Thanks
Dan
 
Posts: 404 | Registered: 01 May 2003Reply With Quote
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I'm wanting mine more and more, the more of these posts I read. I wish I was right-handed...
 
Posts: 2758 | Location: Fernley, NV-- the center of the shootin', four-wheelin', ATVin' and dirt-bikin' universe | Registered: 28 May 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Dan@Montana Rifle Co:
Wallyw,
Thank you very much, we have a fine crew here that is very quality conscience. I am very happy that you are pleased with your action. If you ever need anything please let us know.

Thanks
Dan

One suggestion Dan. Take a look at

http://www.spiralock.com/

This is a thread form some of us have been using on our barrels. However it was designed to be used on internal thread.

Wally
 
Posts: 472 | Location: Oregon | Registered: 08 March 2002Reply With Quote
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The idea makes sense to me, but can you imagine the cost, not to mention the lead time, required to go this route over the old way of cutting a thread? The webpage says that the old threads load the female thread in such a way that can cause it to strip in soft metal. But is SS or CM a "soft" metal given the thickness of the sections we are talking about here? Dan has said they only torque a barrel to about 70 pounds-- enough to keep it on and enough for you to get it off. A 1/2" thread in gray iron can take about 100 pounds of torque; how much torque could a 1" thread in SS or CM take? I would guess quite a bit...

[ 10-12-2003, 02:20: Message edited by: rootbeer ]
 
Posts: 2758 | Location: Fernley, NV-- the center of the shootin', four-wheelin', ATVin' and dirt-bikin' universe | Registered: 28 May 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by rootbeer:
The idea makes sense to me, but can you imagine the cost, not to mention the lead time, required to go this route over the old way of cutting a thread? The webpage says that the old threads load the female thread in such a way that can cause it to strip in soft metal. But is SS or CM a "soft" metal given the thickness of the sections we are talking about here? Dan has said they only torque a barrel to about 70 pounds-- enough to keep it on and enough for you to get it off. A 1/2" thread in gray iron can take about 100 pounds of torque; how much torque could a 1" thread in SS or CM take? I would guess quite a bit...

Can't imagine any lead time. Just substitute one insert for another.

Before I used this on a barrel I threaded a 1.060+- A-1 drill rod tighter than a class three fit. Found it is possible to strip threads if fit is to tight. However this was on the unhardened drill rod not my receiver.

I can't offer any numbers regarding benefits beyond what is on Spiralock web site. However one can feel the difference screwing action on to a barrel. Spreading the load more evenly across all threads must improve joint and help dampen any movement between the two. I've been tightening to about 40 pounds and it is tight.

Wally
 
Posts: 472 | Location: Oregon | Registered: 08 March 2002Reply With Quote
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the germans used a taper thread and a 58degree (i think it's 58.. i have a cold, so I am a little groggy)... as they (amoung others) discovered that 60d thread tended to load the first couple threads, and no load was placed on the rest.... so, a taper or 58 degree allowed for it to be more uniformly loaded...

or
the us and england used square threads for the same reason...

jeffe
 
Posts: 39871 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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