I have 2 actions one stamped 1916 and the other 1943. ( german 98's)
1.Which would be better to use on a custom DGR project ? both rebarreled to 30-06 now and on working rifles.
2.Will these be suitable for a 404 j or a 416 rigby ? or better suited to 375 h&h ?
my apologies if this has been hashed about before.
Thanks
Ej

With any of the three cartridges you mentioned, the action would have to opened up both length and width. Most will not recommend the '98 for either the .404J or the .416R but both cartridges have been done on them. The 1943 could be very good or trash, I don't know when they started looseing up on their quality control, maybe not until '44. Personally, I have a .404J on a Post-64 Model 70 LA and a .416R on a BRNO ZKK-602. I wouldn't use a standard '98 for anything longer than an '06 but, that is just my preference/opinion.

quote:

Originally posted by Masterifleman:
With any of the three cartridges you mentioned, the action would have to opened up both length and width. Most will not recommend the '98 for either the .404J or the .416R but both cartridges have been done on them.

I have to disagree with the above. I doubt that "most" would recommend against the 404 in a standard 98. Most all 404s were built on standard actions. The 404 is shorter than the 375 H&H.

Putting a 404 in a model 70 is akin to putting a Jaguar v12 in a Chevrolet. JMO

The 1916 action may or may not be even softer than the usual Mausers, depending upon the maker. The 1943 action may or may not be rough or improperly (or some say EVEN MORE improperly) heat treated, again depending.

If the 1943 action was made by a reputable maker such as Mauser or Brno then it'll probably be OK IMO, most of the '43-dated actions I've seen were fine. If the 1916 action was made by Danzig, Erfurt, Spandau or one of the other lesser-known makers, then I'd have it re-heat-treated after conversion.

Yes, lots of Mausers have been converted to 404, 375 and similar. Some have been successful, others not. Reasonable people continue to disagree violently about this subject and I'm sure that will continue.

My personal opinion is that if I lengthen the Mauser's magazine by cutting the back side of the receiver's bottom recoil lug, then I'd be foolish to NOT have it re-heat-treated. Mausers have a well-deserved rep for being soft and setting back when stressed, UNLIKE other bolt rifles, and so I'll go with P.O.Ackley's recommendation to re-heat-treat them.

IIWY I'd seriously consider a 416 Taylor or Ruger instead. Just as powerful and no action weakening required. Maybe not quite as charismatic or traditional as the 404 or 375 but, the last time I heard, charisma and tradition don't kill 'em any deader(VBG).
Regards, Joe

I agree w/ Mr. Steele. I recently had Roger Green build a 416 Taylor on a MK X, Blackburn bm, Timney trigger, 3 pos safety and Dakota sights. It turned out fantastic and shoots great. Brass is easy to get or make and it will do everything a Rigby or Jeffrey will. Not nostalgic, but damn effective and a helluva lot cheaper to load for.

Whicever has the easiest bolt to bend...or already bent to a style you like.

As for the comparison 1916 or 1943 here in Europe you'll see all of them easily pass mandatory Proof Test so have no fears (unless it is a "rogue") about that!

Do you know which is made where?

I think we should pay careful attention to enfieldspares comment "easily pass mandatory proof" Hanky twisters concerned about the 98...take note!