I recently purchased a ramline stock for a circa 80's model savage 110. The action does not fit is going to require some work and it is not slotted for the bolt handle.Luckily I didn't pay much for it so I am going to try and make it work. One area of concern is the recoil lug area is rather large. It will only be supported on the back side near the action screw and not on front or underneath. Do I need to glass bed the area in front and under the lug? The factory stock has a channel cut for the lug.

Thanks
Bill

Welcome Bill, When I glassbed a rifle I put a couple of layers of electrical tape on the front,sides, and bottom of the recoil lug just to make disassembly easier. You don't need the lug to contact anywhere except the rear side. God Bless, Louis

Thanks, that's what I was wondering. The only contact with the stock is on the rear of the lug. Now if I can just get this thing to fit!

Ramline stocks are injection molded.
Epoxy does not stick to this material.
If the stock is undercut, like with a dovetail cutter, the epoxy can hang on to the stock.
Other problems with the injection molded stocks is that they are heavy and flexible. The undercutting makes them more flexible and the extra epoxy makes them heavier.

Some Sav110E stocks had finish peeling off the Birch stock and looked bad.
Replacing with a Ramline looked better, but the rifle got heavier and less accurate.

I have taken the Ramline stock off and thrown it away. If the original Birch stock can be found, it can be sanded, spray painted camo, and glass bedded.

Aftermarket stocks made of laminated glass or laminated Carbon fiber are best, but laminated wood or solid wood stocks are good. Injection molded stocks are not acceptable.

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have taken the Ramline stock off and thrown it away. If the original Birch stock can be found, it can be sanded, spray painted camo, and glass bedded.

Well,I hope I'm not wasting my time. I still have the original birch stock. I may refinish,paint it if this doesn't work out. I do find the ramline heavier and noisy,like hard plastic. Hows the old saying go you get what you pay for? This old savage is kind of a back up rifle so I didn't want to throw a bunch of money at it. Especially with the price of a new out the box savage being so cheap.


Bill

I haven't had a Ramline that I know of, but my general experience with injection molded stocks has been very good. Yeah, they're noisy and not pretty and some are too flexible in the forearm but they shoot just fine. Every Colt Light Rifle I know of (about 14 among my circle) shoots exceptionally well. Most Remington 700 ADLs shoot well, too if the barrel floats. My 243 ADL from Wally World shoots true MOA every group of 5. EVERY group. It will go .5 MOA for 5 shoots every now and then. I think it's a matter of how a particular stock is engineered rather than the material. Howas and Weatherbys with injection molded stocks seem to shoot very well too.

Some things to consider:

Watch your action screw torque and don't be afraid to dink with it. Your stock may have a favorite torque value to shoot its' best.

Consider stiffening the forearm, especially if you shoot from a sling. You don't want to pull the forearm into the barrel when you tighten up.

Float the barrel all the way back to the recoil lug. I think this works better than other methods for these stocks.

If your stock has aluminum pillars, don't try to bed the whole action. Just glass the area of the stock that touches the action normally. You cannot stop this material from flexing. All you want to do is make the flexing consistent from shot to shot. It's true that epoxy doesn't bond well to this material but if you rough it up and create a mechanical grip, it will work well enough for this purpose. You're only creating a mating surface, not sticking two things together forever.

I've glassed several with success. I drill a lot of small holes of varying angles where I put the epoxy and so far have had no issues including a previously mention colt light rifle.

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Originally posted by dempsey:
I've glassed several with success. I drill a lot of small holes of varying angles where I put the epoxy and so far have had no issues including a previously mention colt light rifle.

X 2. I've used the drill holes method on many tupper ware stocks along with undercutting with a dremel tool. Just gives an anchor point for the bedding compound. I like to bed the recoil lug on all sides with the Remingtons. The less it moves the better. How often do you need to remove the action from the stock? I never have liked the ugly Hogue stocks. Many years ago Remington used a stock that looked very much like the Hogue plastic. It got many holes drilled in the action area and a brass rod bedded in the forearm to stiffen it then it was free floated. My son is now 28 years old and still shoots this 25-06 AI on an FN 98 action.

These tupperware stocks can be painted to look much better than they do. Use your imagination for a KOOL camo paint job. The old wrinkle paint looks good on them also.