Hey guys, just put a new rear blade on my 375, the stock comb was too high for me to get down behind the sights. The new one is flat topped with a tiny notch in it. I want to file it to a shallow v across the top, no notch.

What is the proper file to use for this? Recommendations before I do it? I am replacing the front bead with a higher one to match them up, it is Williams and I have ordered a fiber optic instead of the standard.

Red

quote:

Originally posted by Dago Red:
Hey guys, just put a new rear blade on my 375, the stock comb was too high for me to get down behind the sights. The new one is flat topped with a tiny notch in it. I want to file it to a shallow v across the top, no notch.

What is the proper file to use for this? Recommendations before I do it? I am replacing the front bead with a higher one to match them up, it is Williams and I have ordered a fiber optic instead of the standard.

Red

I'm not sure there is a definite, single, "proper" file to do this work. It is important to use a fine cut file, but there are likely a lot that will do the job. For mine, I mostly use a flat, knife-edged jeweler's file, although for finish work on the sight, I make the knife edge "safe" by polishing the teeth off of it. I also don't like a "mill" cut file for the work, but that's likely just my preference.

If you don't use a safe-edged file, you have to be very careful to keep from moving the center of the "V" to somewhere other than exactly where you want it as the "V" deepens.
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One other tip, which I learned the hard way, is to make sure of your light when you are doing the filing. If the sunlight is coming from over either of your shoulders, the bottom "peak" of the "V" may very well turn out to not be exactly where you want it unless you are very , very fastidiously careful. It may seem perfect and shoot really great the rest of THAT day. But, the next time you try it, if the light is from over your other shoulder, or from in front of you, you may find the windage is not exactly where it was the day you filed it.

That is because the glint of the sun off the front bead when the sun is behind you and to one side.makes the front bead appear somewhere other than where its center really is.

In other words, if the sunlight is coming from over your right shoulder, it will make the right side of the front sight bead a little brighter, so that is what your eye will naturally and mistakenly pick up as being the front sight center. If you file the rear leaf to center that bright spot, then when you shoot in different light, you'll get different results. If the light is coming from the front the next time, your shots with the now silhouetted front sight will go very slightly to the right of dead center. If the light is coming from over your left rear shoulder next time, the shots may very well go rather markedly to the right.

Anyway, it is a thing that probably doesn't matter at all at out to about 75 yards. But, if you want to use your open sighted rifle at somethng like 150 yards on a small target like a leopard's head or chest, it can result in an angry wounded cat if not done really carefully.

Personally I think that to avoid the sun glint problem, one should do the filing when the sun is high, but definitely in front of them so it throws no glint off the rear surface of the front bead. By being high, it also saves one from looking into the sun itself as they do the sighting/filing shots.
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One last comment, have you ever considered using a flat topped rear leaf with no "V"at all? It works very well indeed. A vertical line inlaid on the side of the leaf toward the shooter, made of a bright metal such as Platinum (or even German Silver...AKA pot metal by some) is what is used for windage. One just sets the front bead right atop the inlaid line on the leaf, puts the bead on the game, and pulls the trigger. I always found it as least as accurate as any depth of "V", and much quicker to use. YMMV though.
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N.B: I've never tried a fibre-optic front bead, so the part about the glint may not apply to it. Definitely does apply to any ordinary round-faced bead, though. Applies somewhat less to the flat-faced beads than to the round-faced ones.

Hey Red, I always used a regular old Triangular round handled needle-file or Swiss File. I think my Set came with 12 different files in it.

Just go half as fast as what you consider is really slow. Make a stroke or two, stop and look at the progress. Take a shot and watch the Impact move down the Target.

You can put some White Typing Correction Fluid on the Leaf and lightly scribe a Verticle line to follow. I never bothered with it and never had a problem cutting them straight down.

You will want the V-groove square with the Leaf and not the Bore if it is at a slight tilt when up.

Go s-l-o-w.

You should be able to find the Swiss Files in about any local Parts Store or even one of the Discount Import places like Northern Hydraulic or Harbor Freight.

And Birchwood-Casey can fix you up with all kinds of Touch-Up stuff for the exposed steel. I "think" they even have a Touch-Up Pen today.

I have a bunch of swiss files, just wasn't sure which one to use. I didn't plan on doing the filing for regulation. The rear sight is elevation adjustable. I was going to put the new sights on, see where they shoot, and as long as I don't need to come down a lot I have lots of upwards travel on the blade (I have it at the lowest point right now).

I don't think my eye would pick up a flat top as fast as a shallow v, but I did think about getting a small gold line put on it.

thanks guys.

Red

Every hand-filed shallow V that I have seen looks exactly like a hand-filed shallow V.

The best way is to start with 2 blades. Hand file one for regulation, then have the second one cut propely on a mill, to the same height.

If you must do it by hand, you will need to clamp the blade in a jeweler's vise and wear 3x magnified glasses. Use a triangular file with the 2 safety sides. It won't be the correct angle for a wide V, but it will keep you from damaging the sight.

After you screw it up (and you will), consider the flat top version once again. The Europeans opted for it over the wide V. It obscures less of the target, and is just as fast. Milling a line down the center and filling it with white paint also helps.

I glued a white paper triangle, apex up, right under the center of the V. Then painted it with clear epoxy. Lasted several years - may still be OK, I sold the rifle. Matched with a big white bead in front. On a .375 Sako Safari. Should note I filed the sight down with a shallow V file purchased from Frank Mittermeir in the Bronx fifty years ago.