This should probably go in the cleaning section but will get more attention here.

I have a customer's rifle in my shop that he requested I remove the carbon ring which is about 3 inches from the end of the throat.

I have tried soaking overnight with MC7 extra strength Shooters Choice, using next size up brush back and forth by hand with every cleaning agent I have, Hoppes, MC7, and Iosso paste. I just finished using a low rpm drill for past hour with a brush and Iosso paste. Im still getting carbon out. I filled it with Kroil now and letting it sit.

When I bore scoped it the barrel has chatter marks all the way down to the muzzle. Pretty bad in spots but customer says the rifle shoots great. Im sure the chatter is just acting like a catch for all the carbon. I have removed all the copper.

Any suggestions for me? I have never seen a carbon ring this difficult to remove. He claims its only had 300 rounds through it. It is a 28 Nosler. No idea who the barrel manufacturer is I didn't ask and its a custom rifle.

Appreciate any help

Chem-dip, any commercial automotive carbon cleaner.

Makes me wonder why a custom rifle builder uses a barrel without a good look at it! I had Winchester Australia replace the barrel on a brand new 94 Winchester 44Mag Trapper as there was a bump in the bore where the rear site dovetail was. Received the rifle back and looked in the bore, was circumferential chatter marks all the way through. How does a gunsmith not even look through the barrel before fitting it!

I don't like to publicly bash companies but this barrel I found out is a popular company that some people swear by. Mistakes happen but you would hope they would quality control better. It starts with a K.

I used CLR soaked patch. Yes CLR you use for household cleaning. Soaked a patch a couple times. Dipped a brush in it and let it sit for 5 minutes. It literally evaporated the carbon. I followed it up with 3 wet alcohol patches to make sure all the CLR was out. Made sure not to get on finish or the stock. It worked amazing.

Cast a lead lap and use some bore lapping compound on it.
I used one K barrel, provided by a client. No more; it was crooked as a dog's hind leg.
They shoot ok, but are over rated I think.

Worst barrel I have ever looked at was a BSA 243 Winchester.

The barrel looked like a magnified elephant skin!

Shot reasonably well, about 2 inches.

About smoother finished barrels.

Had a bunch of CZ 452 22 rim fire rifles.

All brand new.

Looked at all their barrels with a scope.

Graded them from smoothest to roughest.

Shot all of them with several match ammo.

Neither the smoothest nor the roughest were best.

But all shoot as ex.

I have a custom 308 Winchester on a Remington 700 action.

Barrel is from Hart, medium weight.

The barrel looks pretty rough inside, as the rifle had many thousands of rounds through it.

Still shoots under an inch!!

My 375/404 has been on safari every year since 1998.

Several of us use it for hunting.

Still shoots under 1/2 inch!!

Dakota 76 action, Dan Lilja barrel!

Roy and me used it this year.

Shot many animals.

Not a single miss!

Last animal was an old buffalo bull.

Facing away at an angle.

After the shot one of our trackers asked why I shot at that angle.

He smiled when the buffalo keeled over dead.

I use my own made copper bullets.

This rifle and bullet do was designed for buffalo!

Yes,that CLR really takes out the carbon. It is easy to use on stainless steel guns. I used it on a old model 70 & it took the bluing off where I got it on the tang. It says right on the bottle it will remove rust & bluing is rust.

I've looked at probably well in excess of 20,000 barrels through a bore scope. One thing that I can say for certain, is that you can't tell nothing for certain with a bore scope. Except in extreme cases, there is very little correlation between what you see, and how they shoot.

What most people call "chatter" is usually reamer marks that did not get lapped out. These are very common to see on button rifled barrels as many are not lapped at all. The button irons the surface out, and even though you can still see the marks both in the groove and the land, the marks really have no depth to them and generally cause no issue. Not saying that they should be there, just that the proof is in the shooting.

On a cut rifled barrel these reamer marks will only be on the lands as the rifling process will cut them away in the groove. In addition, due to the labor intensity of the cut rifling process, it is generally only used today on higher end barrels and these will be carefully lapped to remove any machine marks.

If by K barrel you mean Krieger, I do not think you will get much traction bad mouthing them. If there is a problem, let them know and they will take care of it. I've used thousands of their barrels over the last 30 years. They have been one of the most consistently high quality barrels and run a squared away company. That last is important and rare in the firearms industry. The few times I have had an issue with them they have handled it fairly and promptly. Of course, now that you have run your drill into the barrel......

quote:

Originally posted by gasgunner:

If by K barrel you mean Krieger, I do not think you will get much traction bad mouthing them. If there is a problem, let them know and they will take care of it. I've used thousands of their barrels over the last 30 years. They have been one of the most consistently high quality barrels and run a squared away company. That last is important and rare in the firearms industry. The few times I have had an issue with them they have handled it fairly and promptly. Of course, now that you have run your drill into the barrel......

I contacted them and never said I intended on bad mouthing them. In fact said I wouldn't and mistakes happen. I sent them the borescope pictures and the Smith I spoke to called them, "Chatter marks". They offered to replace the barrel if the customer wanted and he said some of the marks were quiet severe. He said it should have not made it past QC check. I also told him how I cleaned it and he mentioned using a nylon brush on drill at low rpm also . He also recommended some other products that would not be so damaging to the finish. So yes I agree excellent customer service. Up to the customer now if they want the barrel replaced or not.