Making a first time copy for a Marlin 336
Mount the Butt stock



Cut out the blank


Mark the butt


Mark the action end


Mount the fore end



Drill the blank


Plug and mark the blank


Cut the Blank to size



To be continued

I don't see any "pictorial" pictures.

quote:

Originally posted by 22WRF:
I don't see any "pictorial" pictures.

Fixed

that's great! I'd love to see more, any chance that it can be done with a drill press or does the drilling require a lathe?

Red

Depends upon the drill press.

A floor model with good snug rack fit on the rack-&-pinion setup will allow the operator to check and adjust the bottom center before commencing the drilling operation. If you 1)have a good machine and 2)have good STRAIGHT and EVENLY SHARPENED spur or Forstner bits and 3)run the tool FAST and 4)are reasonably lucky, everything will come out fine.

BTW the same holds true with using a lathe......(grin).
Regards, Joe

quote:

Originally posted by Dago Red:
that's great! I'd love to see more, any chance that it can be done with a drill press or does the drilling require a lathe?

Red

I found drill presses to be pain in the azz.Multiple setups for every hole.I don't have a lathe but I can see where one would work well.I made a (well for lack of a better description) deep hole machine for wood.It works most of the time but drilling deep holes in wood has it's own rules.That's why I drill the hole and then trim the blank.I* used a 2" blank for the butt and a 2.5" fore the fore end.

Rich

Red, in my opinion and that of some of the other members, to drill the through hole it should be done in the lathe with a "gun" drill in the headstock and the opposite end held against a center in the tailstock, then pushed onto the gun drill. Drill from both ends and watch it come out and meet prefectly in the middle.

Fore end rough cut


Finish cut


Rough Scraped and ends cut


Butt stock
Rough cut


Finish cut



Scraped and sanded mounted in stock fixture.First coat of sealer applied


To be continued

Rich

I'd like to hear a bit more about what appears to be a homemade stock duplicator that you have there.

I'm amazed, an extremely simple looking duplicator producing pretty accurate and smooth looking work.

How about a story on how it was built. I would like to see the tracer and cutter head.

It appears that you are not doing any scuffing or scratching of the pattern stock.

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
Red, in my opinion and that of some of the other members, to drill the through hole it should be done in the lathe with a "gun" drill in the headstock and the opposite end held against a center in the tailstock, then pushed onto the gun drill. Drill from both ends and watch it come out and meet prefectly in the middle.

Mr. Kobe, can you elaborate a little? Whats holding the wood in the center? Keeping it from spinning?

That's pretty neat, thanks for posting! Where do you get that laminated wood? I'd also be interested in seeing more details on the duplicator set up.

I wish you could post one for a bolt action rifle. I have selected the below stock for Mannlicher Schoenauer project. Just paid for it today.

Holes in Wood.

Use a Aircraft extended drill bit, and the silber solder a even long extension on it for the really long holes. You now can get ones for wood with a Brad point, that sure beats havine to grind one yourslef.
I had used a 3/8" dia drill for the pilot hole for years years.

Then I had silver soldered a stub on the cutting end, and turned it true for a pilot. Back in the 1970"s IRC I used a Stanley # 105 drill, (somewhat like a Forstner) and extended the shank as well.

That way I could run the 3/8" hole first on centers with the lathe, and come back with the correct size piloted drill to open up the counterbore for the buttstock screw, or magazine tube for the rifles.
The real PIA was the M12 Winchester forarms as I had to make the large dia long step reamer from mild steel to finish the ID of the hole, and another one for the forearm end cap cut.

The hardest ones are the M88/M100 winchesters, so I had designed a special guide that could clamp on the stock about the front of the receiver with a ajustable center section to act as the rear guide for the pilot support. Had to eye ball the angles and center line. Was half way thru one and a employee was watching me intently. I asked him what was up, he said just how close did I think I was going to be at the end of the 13 inch blind hole. I said that I should clean up my marks that were a X made of two lines 3/8 " long. He said OK I have 5 bucks saying that you will miss the mark. As the drill slowly came thru the end of the stock and took out most of my marks, being only off 1/8" of the center I had marked. He took out his money and paid me and never bugged me again when I was working on stocks.

It will surprise you just how many special drills, counterbores etc you will have to make if you do enough stock work.

James Wisner

It wasn't me...I was too stingy to bet 5 quid. I do remember watching you machine a stock blank on your duplicator.

Wisner's Gunshop was the first place I worked were the folks really knew gunwork. Great place to learn, and good people to work for.

quote:

Originally posted by walnut:

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
Red, in my opinion and that of some of the other members, to drill the through hole it should be done in the lathe with a "gun" drill in the headstock and the opposite end held against a center in the tailstock, then pushed onto the gun drill. Drill from both ends and watch it come out and meet prefectly in the middle.

Mr. Kobe, can you elaborate a little? Whats holding the wood in the center? Keeping it from spinning?

As stated, the drill is in the headstock. To start, two shallow, started holes are drilled into each end where the holes are to start/stop. I place the blank into the drill and the other end into the hole in the back against the center in the tailstock, turn on the lathe and push the tailstock to allow the drill to enter the piece. Slide the tailstock back and forth to feed it. Go slow, a little at a time, and back out to remove the wood chips. It may start to squeal a bit, but an application of wax will stop that. The key here is the gun drill, it won't wander like a twist drill.

quote:

Originally posted by walnut:
Mr. Kobe, can you elaborate a little? Whats holding the wood in the center? Keeping it from spinning?

What Jim said.

I use another piece of wood securely taped to the piece being drilled in a T-shape. The temporary piece is long enough to brace against the lathe bed while feeding, and the wood can't damage the ways while sliding. Just be sure to use sturdy tape and plenty of it(grin).
Regards, Joe

quote:

Originally posted by jpl:
That's pretty neat, thanks for posting! Where do you get that laminated wood? I'd also be interested in seeing more details on the duplicator set up.

For laminate in the states your best bet is Cousineau Wood Products Curtis Cabaniss Sales Office 603-748-3232
You can buy just 1 panel at a time.

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:

quote:

Originally posted by walnut:

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
Red, in my opinion and that of some of the other members, to drill the through hole it should be done in the lathe with a "gun" drill in the headstock and the opposite end held against a center in the tailstock, then pushed onto the gun drill. Drill from both ends and watch it come out and meet prefectly in the middle.

Mr. Kobe, can you elaborate a little? Whats holding the wood in the center? Keeping it from spinning?

As stated, the drill is in the headstock. To start, two shallow, started holes are drilled into each end where the holes are to start/stop. I place the blank into the drill and the other end into the hole in the back against the center in the tailstock, turn on the lathe and push the tailstock to allow the drill to enter the piece. Slide the tailstock back and forth to feed it. Go slow, a little at a time, and back out to remove the wood chips. It may start to squeal a bit, but an application of wax will stop that. The key here is the gun drill, it won't wander like a twist drill.

Jim
what do you mean by gun drill?

There is a story about How-to make a Lever Action Rifle Forend from a Blank posted on my Website. Inlcuding drilling the mag tube hole and photos of a shop-made deep hole drill.
http://www.finegunmaking.com/page39/page7/page7.html

Good info...thanks Steve.

Thanks for sharing that SDH. The bars for the octagon barrel is a great tip.

I have found this whole thread helpful. Let me throw out one other method which i have found eases the job in certain situations.

If a through hole such as a magazine tube is close enough to the center to allow for initial center boring within the diameter of the forend blank, then you can do it almost automatically. This works well for pump shotgun forends and lever action action forends.


First, square the blank and mark the centers. Then turn the blank to a cylinder on a wood lathe. I then measure the diameter of the magazine tube, and select a morse taper mount long twist drill to match. These are available by small increments in sizes up to about 1-1/4" at cheap prices from imported tool dealers, are long enough to reach through a forend, and are stiff enough in the sizes needed for magazine tubes to not wander.

I chuck the blank in 3 jaw chuck of a metal lathe, put a drill chuck in the tail stock and drill a starting hole with the next smallest size forstner bit. I then remove the chuck, insert the twist drill, and bore the hole. Drill a couple of inches at a time, back off the ram, pull the tailstock back and clean, then repeat.

When ready to duplicate, take the next smallest size dowel, bush it to fit the hole tightly, and secure it to the blank in whatever method is convenient. Do the same with the pattern. This way, the duplication is indexed off the magazine tube for perfect accuracy. Drill a hole in a block if wood and permanently attach it to one end of the dowel. The block fastens into the clamps of your duplicator and the other end is held by the screw attachment. The entire forend can then be rotated and duplicated. It's quicker overall than the usual method and doesn't require any special drills. It also avoids hand holding the blank, which I always think of as a way to be injured eventually.

Now if I could come up with a similar system for buttstock drilling, I would really be happy. You can use a dowel and drilled block to align the buttstock and pattern by drilling the support block at an angle. This will index the new buttstock to the pattern and assured it is perfectly centered.

quote:

Originally posted by Craftsman:
I'm amazed, an extremely simple looking duplicator producing pretty accurate and smooth looking work.

How about a story on how it was built. I would like to see the tracer and cutter head.

It appears that you are not doing any scuffing or scratching of the pattern stock.

I will get into the story another time.The tracer or stylus if you prefer is made from Delrin.A nylon type stuff.

Here for better or worse is my Deep hole machine for wood.
It runs on linear bearings and uses a common 1/2" drill for power.
It features 2 independent vice jaws one from each side.In hind sight I should have bought commercial units.
I would like to find a proper drilling head for it. Play in these old drills can be a headache to cure.

Power Assist in place and ready to use.Note the custom cushioned handle

Checking alignment on bit to removable center.

Once alignment is checked and wood is centered you can fold center board out of the way if you have to drill right through.Nice to be able to remove it when doing such things as 88s and 100s

Wood Owl bit 3 flute design Very Rigid