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I'm looking for some general "gooseneck" trailer towing advise. I have towed smaller bumber pull trailers, but am going to step up. Any advise would be appreciated. Truck: 2010 Chevy 2500HD 4x4 with 6.6 Diesel & Allison transmission B&W flip over ball hitch (mounted above rear axel) **adding air bags to the truck to help with the load Everything else on the truck is stock, except for a K&N air filter. Trailer: 30ft Gulf Coast 4 Star goose neck with 2 axels (the trailer is their all aluminumn version, so lighter in weight than a steel trailer)...the trailer has a 13ft living quarters in front and rear 17ft is set up to haul up to 4 horses, stock or ATV's etc. The trailer is lifted and blocked 3 inches to help with ground clearence. Thanks for your help | ||
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One of Us |
All the same rules for pulling a bumper mounted trailer apply. Check your tires, make sure trailer brakes are adjusted correctly, etc. As someone who is pulling a trailer for 90% of my miles, IMO, gooseneck trailers are quite a bit easier to pull and backup, once you've gotten past the initial learning curve. One thing that I will caution you about is the combination of a square fronted trailer and a short wheel base pickup. I've seen two different folks turn too sharp (one going forward, and one while backing up) with this combination and bust out the back glass on their truck. You'll also want to really be looking ahead as to where you turn in. You'll probably no longer be able to fuel up just anywhere. Also, keeping a small hammer in the truck bed for closing the shackle is handy and will keep all but fairly short folks from having to climb into the bed. I do a complete walk around every time I stop for fuel. Also, be sure to keep your weight to the axles and definitely not to the rear of the trailer. If it starts swaying back and forth when you get to speed, then it has too much rearward weight. When you unhook it, double check that the tailgate is down. I know that sounds too simple, but it isn't hard to find someone who forgot that one time... | |||
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One of Us |
Make sure the tailgate is up before you take off. Don't ask me how I know....... I used to be into Quarter Horses, and pulled the damn things all over the US. | |||
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One of Us |
Be careful off the highway, also. If you get into some semi-jackknife, off camber situations, like a tight turnaround, your bedside might end up wrinkled like mine "Earth First, we'll mine the other planets later" "Strip mining prevents forest fires" | |||
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one of us |
I don't know if your truck came with a factory brake controller or not, if not then get a good one like the prodigy P3. A gooseneck is easier to tow than a bumper pull, just use common sense. Swing (a lot) wider in turns, you'll be suprised how much they cut to the inside of the turn. Backing is easier also but requires a bit more planning for the extra length. The tailgate is a big one, sooner or later someone forgets to put it up before taking off or they'll unhitch and pull off without putting the tailgate down. Not too many trucks that tow goosenecks still have a straight tailgate. You might consider just taking it off prior to towing. The biggest thing: Get rid of that damned K&N filter. That garbage is responsible for killing more diesel engines than anything else out there. They don't filter well, letting too much dust and dirt into the turbo. Also, the oil that you have to put on them messes with the airflow sensors. Pure junk they are. The stock air filter setup is superior in every way. You don't have airflow problems out of any of the manufacturers late model diesels, they're capable of flowing a lot more air than the engine will ever require. You gain absolutely nothing and subject your engine to increased wear by using the K&N filter. | |||
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Haha! Yeah I learned this the hard way as well! "Ignorance you can correct, you can't fix stupid." JWP If stupidity hurt, a lot of people would be walking around screaming. Semper Fidelis "Building Carpal Tunnel one round at a time" | |||
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I've been dragging it around for a while now....did take out a bush pulling into a gas station. Kind of got myself boxed in on a relative narrow road, so just pulled the trailer over the bush. Good thing it wasn't a tree, because I would have had to cut it down. Out on the highway I just set the crusie control in tow mode and let the diesel/Allison do their thing. Have pulled it through some 7% grades out in the Texas Hill Country. The diesel holds it own going up the hills at 70-75mph. Switched out the factory 26 gallon tank for a 52 gallon Titan replacement. Now, I don't have to make as many pit stops. As far as the K&N air filter.....I have been thinking about switching back to the stock filter....can't really tell that there is much difference in performance. I have heard pro's & con's on that filter. What oil do you recommend. I've been using Rotella, but have considered switching to a synthetic. My tail gate is still looking good....knock on wood! Thanks for the advise on that one, as I can see how that could easily happen. | |||
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One of Us |
I put a K&N in my 2001 Power Stroke on the first air filter change and never had a problem. I'm also very careful about throughly cleaning and oiling. If you are going to start adding after market performance parts, start with the exhaust. All the performance stuff will increase you EGT so you need a big, better exhaust first to keep the EGT down. Of course they need more air too, so that's second. (Unless you do it all at once.) When the time came for the performance stuff, I did the turbo back 4" magna flow, then later an AFE Proguard II, Stage 2 intake. Robert If we can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people, under the pretense of taking care of them, they must become happy. Thomas Jefferson, 1802 | |||
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Id advise getting rid of the K&N air filter, they dont filter that well, the paper kind filter finer/small particles. Also with the K&N your going to be sucking air filter Oil into, and coat the inside of your turbo compressor and wheel. I have a BHAF filter on my Cummins . | |||
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