I have an interesting issue with my 2010 Nissan Frontier. When the temps sink below (estimated) zero degrees Fahrenheit, it will not start. We have looked at the usual- fuel pump, battery, and have taken it to a few mechanics and have had not luck.

Now, the truck did not do this in its "younger" years. I would guess that at about 160,000 miles it started. The truck now has 216,000+ miles on it. It is still very tight, runs strong, and has been a great work truck.

My employee believes that if you turn the key forward (like you would a diesel to warm the glow plugs), and let it sit for a bit, it will start. Now that I have been using the truck for the past few months, I have tried this and on one occasion, after cranking it for a bit, I tried this and it started (maybe just a coincidence).

This is an odd situation. Now, do any of you have any ideas (besides the fact that you believe I am probably off of my rocker- maybe I am).

I'd really like to solve this, and then give the truck to my son as he heads off to college.....

Do you have an OBD code "scanner" and not just a code "reader"?

Will the truck start with starting fluid?

First and easiest thing to do is to try and start it with a scanner hooked up looking at the "datastream". Especially checking if it shows engine rpm's. Also check what the engine coolant temp and intake air (also known as IAT) is, should be within a couple degrees of outside temp.

If you have a way of checking fuel pressure, maybe borrow a fuel pressure gauge but the easiest way of trouble fuel systems is to just give it a shot of ether and see if it starts. If it starts then the problem most likely is in the fuel system somewhere, and if it doesn't start it's most likely in the ignition system. Keep in mind that nowadays the ignition system can be affected by the security system!

Without seeing the actual vehicle my wild stab in the dark is to try ether first, if it fires right up then next time try cycling the key 3 or 4 times before trying to crank it. If it starts then it points to a failing fuel pump.

Also try using a hair dryer to warm up the ECU (computer) to see if the fault is there.

Do you have a key fob alarm? try putting key in ignition, switch on but don't crank, then lock and unlock the doors with the fob and see if that makes a difference.

Sounds silly, but check the battery connections and cables at both ends.

Try those things and post if there is any effect.

Good luck! Mark

When I lived in Logan, I'd occasionally have trouble with my 1979 Cheyenne. One real cold morning I took off to Snowville and the truck barely ran. I think there was moisture in the fuel filter or something as it straightened out later in the day. The other possibility is electronics (more money than a simple fuel filter). We also had an AMC Eagle, used to bring the battery into the house on cold nights. Given the fact that the engine cranks, it's probably not a neutral safety switch but might be a connector problem.
One year a Toyota MR2 in the household started intermittently shutting off, that turned out to be an ignition module that was long out of production (a used one was gotten from a scrapyard to get it going again). Also, maybe get a voltmeter and look at the battery voltage while cranking; if the battery is getting on in years its internal resistance might be lowering the voltage to the ignition. The hair dryer Mark mentioned might just be your friend.

Thanks for the advice

Tom:

Hearin “Snowville” cracks me up! As a kid I spent a lot of time there.

I’ll try these recommendations. My guess is that the “fuel pressure” is something that I’ll check first.

It was -22 on Monday and it’s warmed up for now.

quote:

Originally posted by Jason P:
Thanks for the advice

Tom:

Hearin “Snowville” cracks me up! As a kid I spent a lot of time there.

I’ll try these recommendations. My guess is that the “fuel pressure” is something that I’ll check first.

It was -22 on Monday and it’s warmed up for now.

I thought I was going duck hunting, didn't get there until mid-morning when it was warmed up a little. Oh well, a nice ride back in the sunshine.

yes check the fuel pressure.
you should hear the pump cycle when you turn the key to the on position.
try turning it on for like 2-3 seconds then off then on again after about 5-6 seconds hesitating and turning the truck over.
quite often the pressure will leak off and you have no fuel to start the truck with.

Lamar:

Thanks for the info. I’ll be checking this, this next week (fuel pressure).

Throw my two cents in here. I'd consider throwing a coolant temp sensor at it. When cold, the engine is fuel trim is controlled by the ECU based on ambient air temp and coolant temp. When warm the fuel trim is controlled by the O2 sensors before the cat. A bad coolant temp sensor is fairly common and may or may not throw a code, but will sure mess up the fuel trims to where it won't start or runs like crap.

Thanks

I finally have it at the mechanic. On Wednesday, my employee had the truck at his house and our temps that night dropped to -22. Of course it would not start. I sent him back home to get it around noon with another guy. It was still cold- I would guess sub-zero weather.

This time they put some jumper cables on it and it fired right up. I know, I know, you are think I am an idiot and that it is probably a battery issue. It may be be so. However, when they were cranking it, it did not seem/sound like it was losing any cranking Amps. It sounded like it always does. In the past (I found out from him, as he has usually driven it) that this has happened in the past and has been solved, by jumping it. It just does not make sense (but what would I know).

I explained this to the mechanic and he thought it was odd as well. It will be sub zero again tomorrow and they are going to check some things to see if it can be resolved.....

quote:

Also try using a hair dryer to warm up the ECU (computer) to see if the fault is there.

We thought we had it solved! However, it was cold again last week and it would not start.

The mechanic called and told me he tried warming up the module (as Mark recommended). It fired right up.
We are fairly confident that this is the issue. Repair cost is $600 as they could not find any used ones.

I hope this works, time will tell.

quote:

Originally posted by Jason P:

quote:

Also try using a hair dryer to warm up the ECU (computer) to see if the fault is there.

We thought we had it solved! However, it was cold again last week and it would not start.

The mechanic called and told me he tried warming up the module (as Mark recommended). It fired right up.
We are fairly confident that this is the issue. Repair cost is $600 as they could not find any used ones.

I hope this works, time will tell.

Same with my 1993 Dodge, the powertrain control module is long out of production and probably some number of its component parts as well. I've found some internet advice on "decomputerizing your Dodge" and followed it. The fact that it's a mostly mechanical Cummins diesel helps enormously as there is not a lot of electronic stuff necessary to make it go. Later models may not be as accommodating. There are a couple of ebay sellers who fix them, I've gone the route of letting options expire and concentrating on keeping it moving.

Is it cranking over normally when you try to start it, turning slowly or not at all?

Bob:

It cranks normal. I decided to replace the computer module for $600. A few weeks back, we were down to below zero weather- again! I went out and cranked it and it DID NOT start.

I am shipping it to my Texas office in the fall. It will not drop below zero there

Fuel may be condensing in the intake manifold.

Still would not rule out a battery. Try starting it when cold connected to jumper cables and another battery. If it fires up you know it was a battery issue.
I am on various car/truck forums and have seen batteries be the source of my issues. Even a couple of tenths down in voltage causes all types of problems.
Finally, try an easy fix. Since I put all our vehicles on battery tenders have never replaced a battery.

Snowwolfe:

I had considered this as well. I did swap out the battery and still had issues. I do appreciate the idea though. Like you, I thought there might be a lower voltage and that a new battery would be just enough to fire it.

Oh well, we are finally warming up here and its being running great.

Is is possible that condensation is freezing an air valve open, or that it just has an air leak in the intake?
I've seen a couple of problems where an air hose has cracked on the underside where it's hard to see it.

Tom:

It could be possible. Maybe I will look into it more next year when we are sub zero.

Although its still cold here and snowed today, I believe our sub zero days are behind us.

Thanks again for all the help!