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I saw my first bullfight at the age of 5 in Barcelona, many years ago, and somehow despite my youth, I was hooked. I have seen many, many bullfights since, some good, some bad and a handful of great bullfights! All in Spain. The bullring in Barcelona long ago closed its doors on bullfights and today hosts concerts and other similar "non controversial" events. But there are many other bullrings that continue to host bullfights - including Las Ventas in Madrid, the Mecca of bullfighting and bullrings in Spain!

My wife and I flew down for a short break to see the Novillada con Picadores on the 3rd August in the evening and to spend a couple of days shopping and enjoying Spanish food, tapas and wines!

Now whilst I may tread on a few toes here and stir up some emotion, let me tell you about the bullfight and share a few pictures and texts ...

A bullfight, for those that have not seen one or not read about one, is not unlike a theatre play - there is a cast made up of the matador in the lead role, his entourage or assistants, who also act as the banderilleros, then there are two mounted piccadores and then there are the supporting staff - the assistants that rake the sand flat after each fight and rake over any blood and the team of mules that haul the bull carcass from the ring lead by six assistants and and then there is the audience, headed up by the president of the evening seated in the president's box.

A typical bullfight will be 3 matadores and 6 bulls, each matadore fights 2 bulls, with each fight lasting some 20 minutes from start to finish. Each matadore has his own team of assistants, piccadores and horses. The bulls are drawn by lots on the day of the fight and will typically come from long established selected breeders. The bulls on our evening came from Fermin Bohórquez Domecq, a farm that can trace its bloodlines back to 1770! Typically the bulls are 4 or 5 years old when they enter the bullring and have never come across or faced a person on foot before. They have always been "managed" by people on horseback and never on foot and have lived their lives out on green pastures year round.

The matadores this evening were 3 young men all in the early 20s and just starting off in their careers as bullfighters - Jorge Molina, Christian Parejo and Alejandro Peńaranda. They had all fought bulls in Las Ventas Madrid before. You could tell this as they all wore their caps when they entered the ring. Newbies in a particular ring carry their cap in hand when they enter the arena.

Las Ventas holds some 37.000 guests, this evening was probably 3/4 sold out.


Las Ventas, Madrid




The bullring





The bullfight starts with the two officials entering the arena and asking the president (often the city mayor) for the keys to unlock the pen holding the bulls and allow the matadores and their assistants to enter the ring




Then enter the matadores, the youngest on the left, and behind them their teams




And then the piccadores, mounted on their huge horses





Followed by the mule team and handlers




And then the groundsmen / assistants





The bull is then announced to the audience - its weight, its date of birth and its brand and its name (yes they have names!)





And then the bull enters the ring and the matadore faces him with his pink and yellow cape....




The first 5 minutes the matadore and his team will work the bull with the cape and assess him - how does he charge, does he throw his head, does he stop short and turn fast, is he right or left horned, like a boxer assessing his opponent in the first round ....




The band / trumpet sounds and then in come the piccadores. The bull will be drawn to the piccadore by the matadore using his cape and when the bull charges the piccadore, as he enivitably will, the piccadore uses his lance to stick the bull in the neck muscles and weaken the muscle and thus make the bull lower his head. Typically the bull will only be stuck twice. If the piccadore is over zealous in his actions he will often be shouted down and whistled by the audience.




And then come the banderilleros, the matadore or his assistants, each with two short barbed sticks decorated with paper ribbon, which they place into the bulls shoulder / neck by running across the front of the charging bull and springing up at the right moment to place the bandeilleros and avoid the bulls horns




And then the final act begins with the matadore alone, working the bull close with the red cape





And then in the final act, the matadore kills the bull with his sword by pushing his cape forward so as to get the bull to lower his head and then the matadore thrusts / insterts his killing sword between the bulls shoulderblades down into the bulls lungs. If done perfectly this gives a quick kill. Sometimes it is necessary to finish the bull off with a dagger thrust severing the spinal column behind the head of the bull.




The mule team, decorated with bells and bright headgear in the national colours of Spain, then drags the bull from the arena drawing the curtains closed on the final scene.



The three young matadores did well for their age and experience. All three got tossed and thrown to the ground by the bulls but they all got up and carried on. It was not a bad bullfight and we enjoyed the evening and the atmosphere. Two of the six bulls were very good - aggressive, strong, fast and quick to turn!

The bullfight ended at 11:30 pm and we rounded off the evening in a small bar near Las Ventas where the hardcore fans hangout after the corrida, analysing the fight and swapping stories of other fights that they have seen and the great matadores of old! We enjoyed some wine and tapas and the buzz in the bar before calling it a night and catching the metro to the La Latina quarter and our hotel.

Anyone that is interested in bullfighting, I can wholeheartedly recommend reading "Death in the Afternoon" by Ernest Hemingway written in 1932. A superb take on bullfighting! I have a first edition from 1932 and I read every year .... call me a geek!

Me, yes, I enjoy bullfighting and I am already booked up to see one more this year and a couple next year and hopefully more the years thereafter and thereafter too!

For me bullfighting is right up there!



Ps Apologies for the photo quality - its was iPhone photography which was tricky at best.

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very cool. nothing like it! I grew up watching them every summer with my grandfather. I was in town for the fights in San Fermín this year. Brought back lots of memories. You can now stream fights on the mundotoro app as well.

I first saw them in Juarez and Mexicalli as a child. I do not remember much of those fights other than we went.

I do not know if they still bullfight in Northern Mexico or not.

When I was stationed in Rota Spain about 20 years ago I attended my first bullfight as an adult.

Was magical, kind of sad, but interesting.

I didn't know about the shade side sitting thing and we roasted.

If I get the opportunity to go back I will book it far out and pay to sit in the shade.

Our little bull ring in Puerto de Santa Maria (yes of the Nina, Pinta and Santa Maria fame) was wonderful.

Back in the 80’s when I lived in San Diego I used to go to bullfights in Tijuana. They had 2 rings and one was literally right by the beach. Good times.

Great pictures and narrative Charlie! I have always enjoyed watching the art of the bullfight. I've seen more in Mexico than Spain but they are all a unique experience and spectacle. Thanks for sharing!

Well told, Charlie! I enjoyed your narrative and photos very much.

We will be in Madrid next month and we have made plans to see the bullfights at Las Ventas.

I regret to this day not seeing one of the final bullfights in Barcelona when we had the chance a number of years ago.

Who knew that the Catalans would bend their knees to the animal rights activists?

Hemingway wrote more than once that bullfighting is not a sport, but a tragedy.

Now, that is the truth of it.

It is a hard, ritual and beautiful tragedy.

I definitely want to do this .