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One of Us |
I have a Accumark and was wondering what a good scope would be for long range hunting. Also, what would be a good ring/base choice. | ||
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| One of Us |
Ian, it depends on what you mean as long range hunting. I use Leupold 30mm 4.5x14x50 scopes for my long range rifles. I don't like "busy" reticles, and prefer to hold over on long shots, out to 450 yards or so. If you intend to shoot at game further than that, you'd probably need something with mildots or other gradient. | |||
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| One of Us |
I have been looking at the Nightforce 5.5-22 NSX with the Velocity 1000 reticle. Might be a bit over kill though. I have a Leupold 4.5-14 with the B&C reticle at the moment but wonder if the 40mm is limiting for longer ranges. Alot of guys seem to prefer 50-56mm. | |||
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you can not go wrong with a nightforce, do not go with the velocity reticule because of the affects of temp and humidity on velocity. If you want to go long range, learn your Dope, get out and shoot. Nightforce is never overkill!
Double Rifles, This is the weapon of a Jedi Knight. Not as clumsy or random as bolt rifle. An elegant weapon for a more civilized age. DRSS Chapuis 9.3x74R NRA Life Member | |||
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One of Us |
A Nightforce would be excellent _____________________________________________________ A 9mm may expand to a larger diameter, but a 45 ain't going to shrink Men occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing had happened. - Winston Churchill | |||
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| One of Us |
You want a first focal plane scope (most american variables are not).Scopes with the reticle in the 1st focal plane (usually European mfg.) the size or thickness of the reticle stays in proportion to the target as you change magnification (appears to grow with magnification). Therefore the subtension does not really change. Assume this is not a woodchuck rig, so my pick would be a A Schmidt 2.5-10X Zenith with the A9 reticle as ,with some range time, the ring and posts will serve as an excellent hold over/under/off gauge for big game. Since the ring size never changes, relative to the target, when the power does, once you learn it, you're done. (All quality variable sniper scopes are first rocal plane) I also assume you are a realistic, ethical hunter who does not plan to shoot at Elk at 800 yards. That rifle will hurt you if fired from a normal bench rest or be damaged if shot off a lead slod with 100 pounds of shot on it. An English standing benchrest is the way to go. Perhaps if you contact the H&H shooting school they can send you pictures. The basic idea is that your whole body absorbs the recoil rather than just your shoulder and retina. As for mounts get the most rugged (expensive) Tactical crosslocks you and find and red loctite everything together. If that monster has a muzzle brake (like my 30-378) do not target shoot without plugs AND muffs and always wear sound activated full insert ear plugs while hunting. If you take the brake off to hunt, the POI will change a lot and probably accuracy will suffer as well. My 30-378 shoots 3" higher and groups do from sub MOA to 3" @100, since removing the brake screws up the barrel harmonics. IMHO both are silly cartridges for any normal hunting and most shooters will end up flinching and unable to use the capability of two very specialized cartridges. As the old saying goes: If you can't get it done with a 30-06 you should rethink what you are attempting. To be honest I own a few silly guns that never will hunt. This is the worst: 338 RUM, 36" bbl, 20 pounds all up. Great for 1000 yd + gong ringing.  . | |||
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| One of Us |
The reason why the snipers and precision guys use a front focal plane scope is because you can range the target with the retical at any power setting. With a second focal plane scope, you can ranger the target, but it must be done at ether the hights power (for nightforce) or a designated point that the manufacture indicates. The SFP scopes are not popular with the troops, because when engaging a target, you have to do an extra manipulation of the scope. Plus, could lead to a bad read if you forget to adjust the power. You need to ask what the purpose of this rifle, if your smacking Hajis then the FFP scope is a must, if you are shooting at known distances, you can do well with a SFP scope and keep your costs down.
Double Rifles, This is the weapon of a Jedi Knight. Not as clumsy or random as bolt rifle. An elegant weapon for a more civilized age. DRSS Chapuis 9.3x74R NRA Life Member | |||
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| One of Us |
Shooting at known distances is kinda boring compared to ringing random gongs at 600 to 2000 yards. The nightforce is not that much cheaper and IF you go with some fancy ranging reticle (like mil dots) you'll need a 20 page chart to use a SFP scope at any power other than the designated one. Some "known distance" matches also have time criteria as well, so if you're shooting SFP and change the magnification, you better have the chart handy and be quick at math. Americans are starting to get it as Leupold now has some FFP scopes but most American have been brainwashed into thinking if the reticle "appears" to change size, something is wrong. Actually, the opposite is true as reticle subtension does change in SFP scopes. FFP or SFP ? Ask the Marines ! | |||
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| One of Us |
I agree with you on this, ask any soldier or Marine. Watch out with the Seals though, They been shooting NF NSX for a long time now with the SFP, i dont get it ether, they are strange! When it comes down to it, just make sure your turrets match the recital. For example, if you are running a mil recital, then run mil turrets, if you do a MOA recital, run moa turrets. If you want to start learning to range, its a real neat tool to use. Its real simple once you start using it. All you need to do is be good at estimating the size of the target in ether yards or inches. I use inches myself. for example here in Alaska I like to shoot Blacktail deer. On average, a buck body with from the brisket to the top of the back is 20 to 24 inches. so I impute into my calculator this size of target (in inches)x 27.778/ mil reading (in tenths) = distance. So, if you notice through your scope that the deer is 1.5 mils from brisket to back its 22x 27.778 = 611 / 1.5 = 407 yards. hold over or dial in the range, bang, go pick up your deer. Double Rifles, This is the weapon of a Jedi Knight. Not as clumsy or random as bolt rifle. An elegant weapon for a more civilized age. DRSS Chapuis 9.3x74R NRA Life Member | |||
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Your deer must be more patient than our Mulies or Antelope. My 300 WinMag R1 carries a 2.5-10x32 Nightforce with the ranging reticle. (only correct at 10X). Carry it set @ 2.5X or if in an ambush position 6X. Only time I ever shot an animal at 10X was an Antelope at 375. In reality were I using a fixed 6X with plain crosshair, I could have made the shot with a top of back hold as the 150 TSX shoots so flat and is dead on @250 yds. Busy reticles are a distraction and knob twiddling wastes enough time for the animal to walk/trot/run away. Make sense for small varmints or real snipers (both at long range) but big game is....well big.  ...... | |||
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Can't go wrong with a Nightforce. A Bushnell HDMR is also a solid choice. First focal plane is a definite advantage, but second focal plane isn't too bad as long as you can do some basic math such as multiplying by .5 or 2 in your head. I wouldn't shoot something far enough away I needed a large holdover but couldn't check on my magnification. Love shooting precision and long range. Big bores too! Recent college grad, started a company called MK Machining where I'm developing a bullpup rifle chassis system.  | |||
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I have a Leupold 8.5x25x50 on my 30/378 and love it. Free men should not be subjected to permits, paperwork and taxation in order to carry any firearm. NRA Benefactor | |||
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| One of Us |
45-70---I don't understand your statement that--This gun will hurt you from the bench--Apparently you have never shot this caliber or are not used to any recoil. Please explain. | |||
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I USED NIKON 5.5X15.5 AND 6.6X20 POWERS ON MINE IN ALASKA. problem is up. Close on moose and bears not good.I carried 454 for that.Those Nikon's went through hell AMD back worked awesome. | |||
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If you are going to abuse yourself with that piece of artillery, here is my recommendation: A nightforce 3.5-15 or 5.5-22, with Second plane (rear)and MOAR reticle. Then instead of guessing at the range, I would buy a rangefinder, particularly The one from gunwerks. (I'm assuming you give a sh*t about gut shooting moose rather than gut shooting a hadji). If you do, then a second plane (rear) reticle and rangefinder is for you. I also recommend a wind meter. If you spend twice as long as you think you need to, learning and practicing with this equipment, you should be able to pick your shots and be confident way out at long range. Don't be surprised if you get sick of those cannons and go to a 7mm of some variety. There is nothing in Alaska that needs artillery. | |||
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