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what to use

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26 September 2006, 02:16
C.Wathen
what to use
As many of you know, trapping season is just around the corner. Went friday to get my hunting license with a trapping stamp. Now all I need to know is what size traps to use(yes this is my first year, in my previous post I was just gathering info) and what brand is best? Plan on buying coil spring, long spring, and conibear traps. Also what is the point of offseting the jaws on the trap? Plan to mainly trap raccoons.


Cory



Still saving up for a .500NE double rifle(Searcy of course)
27 September 2006, 05:50
maxbear
Well all I can do is tell you what has worked for me, and a good friend who has trapped coon's for a lifetime. I use doublespring # 2's "in the crick {water} and 11/2 coil's on dryland. I have found the coilspring trap's settle to far in the mud. You want to keep the pan of the trap below the water about 6-8 inches. Think about how long a coon's front leg's are. When the are in water 6 to 8 inches deep there front leg's are just about straight. That's what you want for a good front leg catch. Especially if you are making a "drowning set". I use 220 conibear's when I use them. NO WAX on the conibear's. As for brand's well I have used alot of them. I like victor and blake and lamb. Just make sure if you buy used traps that the spring's are good and stout. I have no use for off-set jaws and coon trapping.
27 September 2006, 05:55
mdmike
If trapping coons with coilspring traps get 1 1/2 not # 2s.With Conibears use 220s.I think there is a bigger size 330 I think.I never used them so dont know if they are too big.They are hard to set by yourself so I reccomend the tool for setting them.By the way.........crabshells are the best coon bait I ever used.
27 September 2006, 06:09
maxbear
I never use 330 conibear's on coon's never. What will happen sometime's is the coon will pass through the jaws to far before the trap is "triggered". Then the jaws of the conibear will clamp down just in front of the hip's of the coon. This is bad. Because then they will chew on there gut's. It is a terrible thing to walk up on such a sight. It defeat's the whole purpose of useing a conibear. A 220 conibear will insure the head of the coon or front shoulder's trip the trigger. A 330 conibear's trigger will not alway's do this. Most of the time it is the coon's back that trip's it when useing a 330.
27 September 2006, 06:24
maxbear
Just another thought.....the jaw spread on a double spring # 2 is the same as a 1 1/2 . The only differance is on a double spring 2 , you have two spring's..........more holding power. And 330 conibear's were made for beaver trapping. If you can't get "crab shell's" , I use "rough" fish like carp, drum etc.....I catch it in the offseason of trapping. Then I will cut it up and freeze it in container's. That way you'll be prepared. I do not use rotten fish or rotten smell's for coon bait or lure. You will find it attract's to many unwanted prey like possom's and skunk's etc..
09 October 2006, 23:21
Tom Dunn
1-3/4 Coilspring is a nice trap.
Offset jaws reduce the damage to the animal, highly recommended in my book.
I have no use for conibears on any thing other than pure water sets for beaaver, mushrats, otter. I catch hell for that from a lot of trappers but thats my feelins on it.
12 October 2006, 04:44
DaveP
Recently talked to a guy with EXTENSIVE experience,and he's been working on the BMPs with the Gov.
He said that # 1s really reduce foot damage on coons,as they can't get to the foot to chew it.He's also big on offsets.
Says the foot goes numb,they can't feel it,so start to chewing.Offset allows a little more circulation/feeling.
DO NOT use Conibears if there are any pets around.
In MD,220s and smaller must be set in wetlands.
16 October 2006, 10:18
wildpork
Coons can pull out of offset traps. Cory PM sent.