I'm looking for more advice for my new Marlin 1894 44 mag. I've shot it mayb e100 times now, and measured groups using the Speer 240 GD SP, and a lesser amount with the Hornady 265 SP.
Someone else said good at 50 yards but bad at 100. I don't understand this, but I was getting slightly less than 2 moa at 50, then closer to 3 moa at 100, with good rest on calm day. I'd like advice on loads and bullets, both for accuracy with this lazy twist and terminal effect. Digging those Speer SP out of the dirt they look very tough. Too tough I wonder. Nice mushroom and still together after a quick stop. I'm using H110, starting at 28.0 and going up without pressure sign (primer and case exp)to outside book max, so I quit. All group about the same, some averaging 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 and other loads to more like 2 3/4. In other words, all about the same. If someone has had better luck with lighter than 240 bullets in measured test I'd love to learn about it. Also experience with other powders I haven't tried yet, for both accuracy and speed. Thanks

Is your marlin a ballard or microgroove? The microgroove is 1 in 38 twist. I generally shoot 240 to 300 frain xtp's in mine. I use a max charge of 2400 with a magnum primer. 3MOA is about average at 100 yards for a lever gun. If you adjust the pressure on the barrel by playing with the tube attachment screw and check the foreend cap and forearm for pressure on the barrel you may be able to get it to shoot better. It also may shoot worse with some adjustments. So, take a couple of boxes to the range and make adjustments and see what you can figure out. That's half the fun!

As Buckeyeshooter said a three MOA levergun - especially a pistol cartridge carbine - is no slouch. My 45/70 Guide Gun "Mjolnir" will shoot under two inches at 100 but I have to feed it $2 a shot ammo (it just had to love the Winchester 300 gr Nosler Partitions!) and use a scope to do it. I'd rather feed it lead and it's much handier with irons. Unlike some boltguns I find it prefers a firm grip. I hold the foreend and rest the support hand on the sand bag. How's the trigger on yours? These days Marlins benefit from some trigger work or the WWG Trigger Happy kit.

I'm not sure what rifling it has, but it is a new one, and the rifling is s l o w . I have it scoped, and am used to benchrest shooting, so I think I have a good measure of it's capability with these loads. I'll try holding it down (like i have to do with hard kicking slug guns to get any accuracy). My hand between the bag and gun make it less steady, but on the hard kickers ends up with smaller groups. I never thought of that with this pipsqueak cartidge, but I'll gry it. The trigger work I did almost over did it. I have it at an even two pounds. Didn't intend to get it below two and a half, but thats where it ended up. I have not shot it since the trigger work, so may get some improvement. I definately will in offhand shooting.

I have shot several different 44 Mag rifles. I like them.

If you are getting 3" groups at 100 that is good.

My current 44 Mag rifle is a Winchester Trapper.

It shoots better at 100 yards with Speer 270 and Federal 300gr Cast core, than it does with 240gr bullets. Strange but true.

Probably shouldn't be shooting over 100 yards with 44mag. Your accuracy is fine for that. Try a few different types of ammo and it might improve a little.

I have an old 1894 with the Microgroove and shoot RD 265 grain cast slugs sized to .432. I have had my best results with 21 grains of Lil'gun. The addition of the WWG trigger was probably the best investment I made in the rifle, even thought it was half of what I paid for the rifle 30 years ago.

I have shot a whole bunch of deer with a 44 Mag rifle. This was back when 240gr bullets was the only game in town.

My farthest shots were @ 125 yards. It killed deer as good as ahy other rifle I have ever used.

I recently killed one pig with the 225 Hornady leverrevolution at @ 40 yards. He was hammered to the ground.

I have a couple of 1894's in 44 magnum. They are a fantastic rifle IMO.

I have shot several, and all the ones I have fooled with preferred a cast bullet. I cast a 240 grain Lyman, and RCBS bullet from straight WW. Mine average about 2 inches at 100 yards with open sights.

IMO the 1894 in 44 magnum is effective out to 200 yards with no problem. I have shot a few deer out to that range, or close to it. And 1 deer at 225 yards(that is stretching it). The 44 magnum is a large hole going in. With minimal expansion it makes a 1/2 inch hole. That is a pretty big hole. And we all know what large, slow moving projectiles do to game.

You should be able to get a little better accuracy from your rifle.

All the ones I have loaded for liked 2400(powder). And a stated above, cast bullet performance is great(and a lot cheaper). Try some 2400 with cast bullets. Tom.

HEAD0001

Good info. tell me about the foward mounted williams reciever sight, why there?

Good info guys. Could I get some specific loads for the lead bullets. I shy away from them for fear of leading and difficult cleaning. I think of lead bullets as a low velocity target shooting proposition. If I push the lead expanding bullet to 1700 and above, will I not set significant leading? Any lead at all in the bore steals accuracy, in my experience with pistols. Are those 2400 loads on the light side to prevent leading. Can I avoid anyany leading with lead bullets? If so, I want to try them. I'm pushing the 240 jacketed up to about 2000 without deteriorating accuracy or over pressure signs.

quote:

Originally posted by N E 450 No2:
HEAD0001

Good info. tell me about the foward mounted williams reciever sight, why there?

I did not like the way the sight hung off the rifle on the rear scope mount holes. The sight hung over the hammer,and I did not like that. I have not noticed any difference in accuracy with the sight in the front holes. So I figure if it works?? Then why fool with it?? Tom.

quote:

Originally posted by cptmclark:
Good info guys. Could I get some specific loads for the lead bullets. I shy away from them for fear of leading and difficult cleaning. I think of lead bullets as a low velocity target shooting proposition. If I push the lead expanding bullet to 1700 and above, will I not set significant leading? Any lead at all in the bore steals accuracy, in my experience with pistols. Are those 2400 loads on the light side to prevent leading. Can I avoid anyany leading with lead bullets? If so, I want to try them. I'm pushing the 240 jacketed up to about 2000 without deteriorating accuracy or over pressure signs.

The biggest problem I have seen shooters have with cast bullets is that they try to shoot cast and jacketed at the same time. And that is a NO NO. You must make sure your barrel is completely clean from the jacketed material before you shoot cast bullets. If you do not then you will get leading.

You will always get a little leading. The same way that you always get a little coper jacket fouling with jacketed bullets. A little is no big deal. Just keep your barrel clean. It really is that simple. I normally clean my barrel on my 1894 after every 40-50 rounds.

As far as velocity is concerned. Well that is why I listed two molds. The Lyman mold is a non-gas check mold. I can run straight WW up to 1600 fps without fouling problems. If you get a bit of fouling then water quench your bullets. That will solve your problem.

The RCBS mold is a GC mold. I run those up to abouty 1800-2000 fps with no problems at all. You can run GC bullets a bit harder. But the velocities I run them at are more than adequate for deer hunting. And the ground hogs really do not like a 240 grain cast bulet at 1800 fps. It ruins their day!!

I really do not like to give exact loads on the internet. However finding listed loads for 2400 in the 44 magnum can be found anywhere. 2400 really is the magic powder in the 44 magnum(IMO).

I am a believer in the KISS system. And cast bullets really are simple, and uncomplicated bullets. Treat them that way, and do not be afraid of them.

The real beauty about shooting cast bullets is the cost. I can shoot over 500 rounds of 45-70, and over 1,000 rounds of 44 magnum for under $100. And that is the key to everything.

After you have put 1,000 rounds down range out of your 1894 then you will really understand how effective this rifle and cartridge can be. A lot of shooter's have knocked the system, however I would bet that very few of them have tried it.

I just bought another 1894 with a pretty good piece of wood. I like good wood. I am going to put the new Skinner ladder sight on this one. Tom.

HEAD0001

Thanks for the info, makes sense.

Not to change the subject, but how do you clean lead completely from the bore? My experience with lead pistol bullets was that it took hours of work. Tough on the crown in a revolver. Must be better ways than brush and Hoppes 9? My accuracy with leaded bore was non existent. Fine till it leaded, but with hot loads that was quick. I'd like to use lead, but not to spend more time cleaning than shooting.

Personally I would never put a brush in my rifle. Regardless of how leaded it was.

All I use is a good jag and patches. Along with a good bore solvent. And there are a few different solvents made especially for lead. Just call Sinclair or Buffalo arms for their lead cleaning suggestions.

It may take a little time to get it right the first time. Or you may have a relatively rough bore.

I would guess your revolver was a Ruger?? Their barrels are a bit rough.

You may need to lap the barrel of a firearm if the barrel is too rough.

IF you have to lap a barrel then the cast bullets should actually shoot better. Because you will then be able to size your bullets exactly to the lapped bore. Tom.