I have Winchester 92 takedown octagon barrel purchased new several years ago. With the magazine tube removed and the action open, I still cannot rotate the forend/barrel assembly to take it down. I tried penetrating oil. Any suggestion as to how to generate enough torque to rotate the barrel/forend without marring finish?

Is this the first time you have attempted the take down feature since purchasing the rifle? They usually only require minimum torque to quarter turn the barrel and for-end unlocking the interrupted threads and allowing the barrel and for-end to be pulled away from the receiver.
Is it possible moisture has seeped into the threads and or the receiver and receiver extension plate joint setting up rust?

Is there any movement at all when applying torque. If there is slight movement then check the end of the magazine tube to ensure the magazine follower has come out with the tube or for some strange reason has come free and is still in place preventing the barrel twisting free from the receiver. I know you will have checked to see there were no cartridges still in the magazine which would stay in the receiver and also prevent the barrel twisting free once the magazine tube was withdrawn.

Failing these it would seem corrosion is preventing the barrel twisting, maybe judicious application of heat would allow some movement and then penetrating oil will help.

Please; NO heat. That won't help. It ain't the threads that are tight.
When is the last time you removed the barrel? Sounds like, maybe never, and it is one of the new ones. "purchased new..."
Remove the fore end, and treat it like a non TD; IE, barrel vise and receiver wrench.

I did qualify application of heat by "judicious", not getting carried away with a blow torch .
Hairdryer or boiling water is one I've used a lot but not over wood work.

How many sit at home with a barrel vise and receiver wrench for a '92

If it is not the threads binding then can only be something preventing the release of the interface between the receiver and the receiver extension plate on the for-end.

Put the action in a padded vice and use a padded spanner on the octagon barrel but first make sure the magazine follower and or a cartridge is not preventing the rotation of the barrel/for-end as I mentioned in my first post.

Any progress?

Of course it is not the threads binding; it is the face of the receiver and the TD barrel extension that are friction binding against each other. Heat will just make them tighter. Expanding the receiver ring won't do anything of value.
I can see a rounded over octagon barrel by telling a rifle owner to use a padded wrench (spanner?) on his new rifle barrel. And if it slips, there goes his magazine tube too.
Be careful out there.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Of course it is not the threads binding; it is the face of the receiver and the TD barrel extension that are friction binding against each other. Heat will just make them tighter. Expanding the receiver ring won't do anything of value.
I can see a rounded over octagon barrel by telling a rifle owner to use a padded wrench (spanner?) on his new rifle barrel. And if it slips, there goes his magazine tube too.
Be careful out there.

With respect dpcd your only advice has been to use a barrel vise and receiver wrench, the sort of tools the average gun owner has a selection of on his reloading bench ????????
You might as well first up have told vangulik to take it to a gunsmith.

If slightly more torque applied with common tools will not release the barrel/for-end from the receiver then there is going to have to be revision of the approach to this.
Not much point in owning a takedown when it won't take down.

It is new. The new ones sometimes need coaxing.
Bring it over and I'll unstick it for you.
I just don't want the OP to use bubba methods and mar or scratch his new rifle. The OP even said he didn't want to mar his finish. I have seen basement gun hack methods and the results aren't pretty.
I have fixed many of them from local idiots.

maybe obvious, does the lever/action need to be open

Thanks to all for their advice.. I am proceeding very slowly and carefully. If I cannot rotate the barrel/forend cautiously with simple tools, it is going to a gunsmith.

quote:

Originally posted by richj:
maybe obvious, does the lever/action need to be open

Yes the action most definitely has to be open and the OP said it was in his first post.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
It is new. The new ones sometimes need coaxing.
Bring it over and I'll unstick it for you.
I just don't want the OP to use bubba methods and mar or scratch his new rifle. The OP even said he didn't want to mar his finish. I have seen basement gun hack methods and the results aren't pretty.
I have fixed many of them from local idiots.

Must be frustrating living in a town full of local idiots, still I suppose it helps keep you in business

It is actually entertaining and amusing to see what they can do next. So far, no one has gotten hurt so it is funny. One guy has blown up at least 4 Rem 700s with his careless hand loads and the most he got was a speckled face.

Some folks aren't so lucky. I knew one guy who chambered + fired a 308 in his 25-06. He sheared the locking lugs on his M98 bolt + blew out his eardrums (no hearing protection), he was just generally stupid, but lived to talk about it; another dumb move.

Pretty hard to blow up a Rem 700. His loads must have been hot!

I used to have a Miroku built model 92 deluxe trapper takedown. It was a bitch to take down. Very tight and when assembled it was out of alignment by a few thou. The BLR I replaced it with was very easy to take apart.

quote:

Originally posted by vangulik:
Thanks to all for their advice.. I am proceeding very slowly and carefully. If I cannot rotate the barrel/forend cautiously with simple tools, it is going to a gunsmith.

Any progress to report?

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Norman Conquest:
Some folks aren't so lucky. I knew one guy who chambered + fired a 308 in his 25-06. He sheared the locking lugs on his M98 bolt + blew out his eardrums (no hearing protection), he was just generally stupid, but lived to talk about it; another dumb move.[/QUOTE



Sheared the locking lugs? No fu...ing way

Can't help but wonder..Any chance left over bluing salts constipated things? , Tried Kroil for a couple days?

Had to put it aside for a while. Trying Kroil now.

If you have a bench vise, soften the jaws with wood boards and firmly clamp the barrel. Make sure follower is removed. Tighten a softened jawed bar clamp on the assembled receiver. That should give you the necessary leverage to turn it off.

Well. worst case scenario. A gent brought in a similar gun to the one being described to a gunshop I frequent. Seems the previous owner thought that there was too much play between receiver/barrel assmbly. Made it so there was no movement at all...only took a judicious amount of Acra Glass in the threads and between receiver/barrel assembly to tighten things up. Not sure what the outcome was....maybe someday I can find out...but on the bright side, all play was gone!