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Originally posted by concho:
PC I have the site for CH dies for the 50-110 but they don't answer e-mails , I know you have their dies , There are 2 sizes of 50-110 , Rim .665/ shoulder .565 , The Starline brass is .601 Rim /.544 shoulder, I wrote to CH for the correct info but no Reply , are yours compatable with Starline brass ? I also wrote to The rental outfit in origon for a reamer for 50-110 and no reply There ! The new 50=110 is 2.400 Long and the original is 2.500 Their add does not specify which they are using ? Please reply Thanks

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Originally posted by PC:

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Originally posted by a_dalimata:
I had the same problem with my 1886 with the light hammer stikes . The problem is the rebounding hammer strut that holds the hammer back off of the firing pin .it robs the hammer of its striking power . Dave Scovill did a artical in "Rifle" a few years back on how to correct the problem . it is a simple fix if one had the tools and the know how. it would take about 20 minutes to fix . IIRC it involes taking the strut out and filing 1/8 in off of the bottom "finger" . this would allow the hammer to rest closer to the firing pin. do a little searth on this im not 100% that it was the bottom "finger" that had to be shortend

I have had this done to my el 1886 replica 50-110 conversion, as some said that when converted to 50-110 they where getting lite primer hits.

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Originally posted by Vasa:
a_dalimata,dla, PC! I also have problems with misfires in my modern 1886 Winchester Takedown 45-70. In fact, I fired twenty rounds through it today and had 30% misfires using WLR primers. It is the gun I'd like to take bear hunting next time I go, but before that this problem has to be fixed. Can anyone remember in which issue of "Rifle" that Dave Scoville's article was published - do you have a copy of it?
My 1886 is also the "lawyer proof" version made a few years ago. I once hade a Browning 1886, too bad I sold it. Both were made by Miroku of Japan

By the way, I just rejoined these forums.

Vasa