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I got started using Weaver rings because they are available cheap, everywhere, to fit almost anything. Installation can be challenging until you perfect the technique of putting the scope on at a tiny angle and letting the rings pull it around to level. After I learned to do this, it never seemed to be any extra trouble. As to avoiding scratching the scope, a scrap of paper wrapped around the tube when intalling or removing the rings works OK for me. I put both lower ring halves onto the bases and then push them forwards while tightening the locknut and I have never had one move or fail to return to zero. (I like to always remove the scope when cleaning the gun.) It probably doesn't matter which system you settle on as long as you buy good quality gear. Stay away from crappy Chinese rings and make sure you have a screwdriver with parallel sides which fits the slots perfectly. A gun with buggered scope screws is like a supermodel with two front teeth missing. | ||
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jbmi, I like the look of your setup. The only concern that I have is that my bolt patern might not match up. The last bases used were two piece Weavers, and I dont know if my rifle was drilled and tapped at the factory. The serial # of my 99f is 1009869. It has a tang sight, gold trigger and a jeweled bolt. If the setup you used will work I would like to try it. | |||
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One way to know if it came from the factory d&t is the location of the caliber stamp. If it's directly under the front scope base and hidden from view the d&t was not factory. If the caliber stamp is off to the side and can be read after the front base is installed the d&t could be factory. Yours was made after 1960 so I'd bet it's factory. (the 1 millionth 99 was made in 1960) your SN is after that. My SN is 922xxx | |||
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If you are interested, I have one of the Pachmeyer swing off mounts for a model 99 that I would sell. You can either tip the scope to the side or quickly remove it to use the iron sights. E-mail me if you are interested, and I will e-mail pictures. Dave | |||
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