I'm hoping to get a clearer understanding of what is and what is not a risk when reloading my 444 Marlin. Or any rifle for that matter. Just learning the new art of reloading and enjoying it very much.

I have just finished testing my 444s rifle with 52 to 56 grains of Hodgson H335 powder pushing 330gr. beartooth bullets. The only difference in the brass after firing 54, 55, 56 grains of powder and then comparing the brass to a factory fired load was a miniscule difference in the primer impact point. What I mean by this is the dimple left by the firing pin had a slight (very slight) wave or shoulder, if you will.
I'm having problems explaining myself.

- Factory primer has a hole where the pin strikes the cap.

- Reloads all had a shoulder on it when you run your finger nail on top of the impression.

The brass was fine. The rifle was not sticky to open. there is considerably more recoil but that is to be expected.

I believe that this may be the first signs of hi pressure but is it enough to back off?

I don't see that it is detrimental to the rifle in anyway and the load has been tested (refer to beartooth bullets tech notes) BUT there was a difference.

So what do you think Yeh or Neh?

Regards

Bellhender

I believe what you are describing is cratering. It can be a symptom of high pressure but it can also be a symptom of an oversize firing pin hole in the bolt face.

Reading pressure signs has been proven to be impossible to do with any certainty. The only one I really put much stock in is case head expansion. Measure the case head before and after firing and compare measurements. Probably safest is not to exceed published reloading data. Even that isn't 100% safe. For example I have a 264 Win Mag that loosens primer pockets if I go above the starting loads in the manuals.

I have a 444 but haven't started load development yet. Good luck!

Thanks Mark

I had put this same question to the "reloading forum" and received similar advice. The brass is new so I think I'll continue with this load and keep checking for pressure signs. One logical solution is go with a lesser load and be happy. I'm just not that bright (haha).
Like yourself I reload for other rifles, specifically my Ruger #1 in 300 Win. It is just a little sweety, seems to take anything and make it work well. So I'm a bit spoiled. The lever action isn't as strong as the falling block but the 444 doesn't have the same pressures either.

that is called cratering and it is a sign or indication of high pressure as the metal is flowing around the firing pin, and hardness of primers has nothing to do with cratering, soft primer flaten out but do not normally crater. at least I have never seen a soft primer crater, they smear and give an indication of high pressure...

I would definatly cut the load by a grain or two and give up the 50 FPS velocity which is really meaningless with the big bore calibers that kill by cross section and bullet weight in the first place...these lever gun are not ment for over loads like a No. 1 or bolt gun can take..your face will get little curly ques of smoking burning flesh, and one time will cure your ills of playing games with lever guns .

Straight cases are the very trickiest to guesstimate pressures. For hobbyists, the most reliable means is measurement of casehead expansion with a proven micrometer. That comparison is made against previously unfired FACTORY rounds of known safety. NOT against unfired brass or handloads. Even this method is being called into question by more modern pressure measuring equipment. The 444 has a maximum pressure of 43,500psi. Primer condition and brass appearance normally show little change until you are well in excess of 55,000psi. Especially in semiauto and lever actions (as opposed to strong falling block single shots and turnbolts), it is by far most prudent to stay with laboratory tested data.