One of Us
| Whats a Pre saftey, My 94 marlin is stamped 71 in front of the serial number, got it for $325 still had packing grease in the seems |
| Posts: 59 | Location: Southern Maryland | Registered: 26 January 2013 |
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One of Us
| It's a Marlin on which you cock the hammer, squeeze the trigger, and the gun fires. This is completely unsafe.
The correct, currently-accepted method of manufacturing a levergun is to incorporate a crossbolt "safety" through the receiver, just forward of the hammer. When in the "safe" position, this allows the hammer to be cocked, and when the trigger is squeezed the hammer falls but the gun does not fire. Persons who are experienced with leverguns normally test this "safety" several times on deer that bound away unscathed after the first loud "click", by rapidly working the lever, thus ejecting a perfectly good cartridge into the mud and chambering a fresh one. This results in a rapid succession of CLICK...^&*%!...KA-CHUNK...CLICK...%^)$@%^&&!!!...KA-CHUNK...CLICK...&%$#(%&$#%&*((%#!!!!!...KA-CHUNK...until the deer disappears. The sequence is normally closed with %$*(^%#@)^%$*%#@!!!!!...or some permutation thereof.
This is the politically-correct method to hunt deer with a lever action rifle. It is completely safe, even for the deer. |
| Posts: 1028 | Location: Manitoba, Canada | Registered: 01 December 2007 |
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one of us
| quote: Originally posted by cub124: Whats a Pre saftey, My 94 marlin is stamped 71 in front of the serial number, got it for $325 still had packing grease in the seems
In 1984, a crossbolt safety was added to the Marlin product. Pre safety is a gun made before 1984 without it. Your 71 serial number would be 1969 manufacture. |
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One of Us
| And the first Marlin 44 mags were built on the 336 round bolt frame; those are actually fairly rare. |
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One of Us
| quote: Originally posted by cub124: Whats a Pre saftey, My 94 marlin is stamped 71 in front of the serial number, got it for $325 still had packing grease in the seems
Yeh, and exactly when did you buy it? Heck, I bought DRs back in the day when used ones were selling in jolly old Blighty for $200 U.S. Now a lot of those guns are selling for well over $50,000 US. Timing isn't everything, but it's danged important...just ask your wife about 3 a.m. some morning....
My country gal's just a moonshiner's daughter, but I love her still.
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| Posts: 9685 | Location: Cave Creek 85331, USA | Registered: 17 August 2001 |
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One of Us
| about 3 months ago |
| Posts: 59 | Location: Southern Maryland | Registered: 26 January 2013 |
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One of Us
| quote: Originally posted by buckeyeshooter: [QUOTE]Originally posted by cub124: Your 71 serial number would be 1969 manufacture.
71 139??? is a 1969 really I thought it was a 1971, I have a 336RC in 35rem from 1957 my dad gave me, the 44 looks a little smaller, and a square bolt, gold trigger and gold saddle ring, it has a hood on the front sight |
| Posts: 59 | Location: Southern Maryland | Registered: 26 January 2013 |
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one of us
| Its very possible it could have been purchased in 71 if it sat on the bottom of a stack of a gun store or distributor that did not rotate stock. |
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One of Us
| Cub; yes, the 44 mags are built on the 94 frame which has a square bolt. But the first few (I don't know how many) 44 mags were made on the 336 action, typical round bolt Marlin. I have a book on Marlins somewhere; I will look for it. |
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| FYI,starting in mid to late 1968 the first two digits of the s/n on Marlins was the actual year. This was only done until 1972. 1972 also had the BO code as mentioned earlier. Before 1968, (starting in the 1930's) a letter code was used. Some letters were not used, "c, was used two years with first a capitol C followed by a lower case c the next year. By 1964, the alphabet was used up so they went to two letters. AA was 1965, AB was 1966, AC was 1967 and 1968 had both AD and 68 prefixes. They ran with the first two digits being the actual year until 1972. Starting in 73 they went to the 2 digit number code where you just subtract the first two digits from 100 to get the year. 1973 would be a 27 s/n because 100 minus 73 equals 27. That continued until Remington took over. A "00"s/n would be made in 2000. One made in 2003 would be a 97 s/n etc. Just FYI "nice to know stuff".
Dave
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| Posts: 1 | Location: Missouri | Registered: 21 January 2010 |
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One of Us
| quote: Originally posted by jwm: It's a Marlin on which you cock the hammer, squeeze the trigger, and the gun fires. This is completely unsafe.
The correct, currently-accepted method of manufacturing a levergun is to incorporate a crossbolt "safety" through the receiver, just forward of the hammer. When in the "safe" position, this allows the hammer to be cocked, and when the trigger is squeezed the hammer falls but the gun does not fire. Persons who are experienced with leverguns normally test this "safety" several times on deer that bound away unscathed after the first loud "click", by rapidly working the lever, thus ejecting a perfectly good cartridge into the mud and chambering a fresh one. This results in a rapid succession of CLICK...^&*%!...KA-CHUNK...CLICK...%^)$@%^&&!!!...KA-CHUNK...CLICK...&%$#(%&$#%&*((%#!!!!!...KA-CHUNK...until the deer disappears. The sequence is normally closed with %$*(^%#@)^%$*%#@!!!!!...or some permutation thereof.
This is the politically-correct method to hunt deer with a lever action rifle. It is completely safe, even for the deer.
That exact situation happened to me with a Marlin Guide Gun, click, lever new round, click deer gone, then saw the cross bolt safety was on. I was just to use to using the half cock method. |
| Posts: 25 | Location: eastern pa. | Registered: 03 February 2016 |
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one of us
| Exactly why I fit cross bolt marlins with the Lugwig safety delete kit and return then to original engineering. |
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One of Us
| quote: Originally posted by buckeyeshooter: Exactly why I fit cross bolt marlins with the Lugwig safety delete kit and return then to original engineering.
Were can I get this kit and is it easy to install. thank, kenr |
| Posts: 25 | Location: eastern pa. | Registered: 03 February 2016 |
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