I've got a recent model 39-A and I get 1 or 2 misfires per magazine.

This is the model with the rebounding hammer and button safety.

It's clean and seems to be good repair. I got rid of the hammer extension to lighten the hammer and this helped but did not solve the problem.

Federal cartridges work better than Remington or Winchester. I use the inexpensive cartides sold by the brick.

The firing pin mark on the rim is not very deep.

I suspect that the hammer is not hitting hard enough or that the firing pin may be short.

Rifle magazine had similar problems which they ascribed to not having the action closed completly when bench rest shooting. This is not the problem - I've checked.

Anybody else had similar problems? Can anybody suggest a possible cure? Stronger hammer spring? Longer firing pin? I really like the rifle otherwise.

I wish Marlin hadn't changed the design. I know the old models didn't have the button safety and I suspect they didn't have the rebounding hammer.

First thing I would try, if you have not done so, is to clean the breach face, barrel face abd chamber.

I would also check to see if the firing pin is moving with out binding. I would probably put some breakfree in the firing in channel anyway.

Also check the hammer spring tension by comaring it with another Marlin.

If everything is clean and free of the lube goo
and unburned powder then try the following:

Stretch a rubber band over the hammer to give it more power.
If it fired reliably with a rubber band you probably have a weak hammer spring.

send it back to marlin and let them fix it

The one other thing to check is, if it has a take down screw on the left side and it has been apart, make sure the two haves are together tight. If they are not tight the hammer will bind on the bolt. Don't ask how I know this.

Thanks to all. It was dirtier than I thought, I've cleaned it well so maybe that's the solution to the problem.

It just looks like it must the rebounding hammer. The same spring drives the hammer to hit the pin AND rebounds the hammer. I guess I'm just being stubborn, but it seems like it's working against itself.

There is a way to eliminate the rebounding hammer feature. I had a 39 that I modified like this, but have since sold it. I am going by memory here, so my description may be a little inaccurate. With the stock removed, there is a flat steel piece that the mainspring rides on and it engages the hammer in 2 spots, if I remember correctly. One area engages the hammer about 2/3rds through its fall and makes it rebound. You can file this portion off so it does not engage the hammer. After this modification, when the gun is uncocked, hammer forward, you will be able to see the hole they drill through the back of the hammer. You might think it looks a little unsightly. Also, you may want to now lighten the mainspring(go slow and easy here!) because it no longer has to work against itself to fire the cartridges. Lightening the mainspring will make the lever throw much less stiff.

Another option, maybe the best one, is to sell it and find an older 39 without the damned "safety features"!

msj7x57,

Thanks. Before you posted I shortened, but did not totally cut off the arm of the Y shaped piece that you talked about. I'll try shorting it more or elininating it if performance doesn't pick up.

Do you know how do you remove the safety?

Grizzly,
I never removed the hammerblock safety, but I do remember reading about an outfit that offered a kit that would replace it. It looked pretty simple. Basically, it just looked like another screw in the receiver after you were done. I think this is what you're looking for http://www.leverguns.com/artic...crossbolt_safety.htm

The Ludwig safety delete is easy to use. You remove the butt stock via taking out the tang screw. Then use the supplied allen wrench to remove a screw wolding in a small spring and metal detent. You slide out the crossbolt safety, slide in the 'blank'. Then reassemble the spring, detent and stock. Takes longer to write than to do.

Thanks again.

I'm on a roll now, I shortened the lower half of the strut and the hammer still rebounds but hits the pin harder. Lever is slightly hard to work but not much. I shot about 60 rounds with no misfires this last weekend.

Next on the list: cross block safety.

One last note; Marlin calls that part a "rebound strut" and if you mess it up, it'll cost you $5.00.

Worth the risk, file off about 1/8".

Grizzly

Misfiring rimfires are often the outcome of dry firing.

If/when the firing pin impacts the empty chamber rim, repeated dry firing will indent/peen that portion of the chamber rim. This lessens the effect of the firing pin impacting the cartridge rim, and eventually results in misfires similar to what you describe.

If the firing pin itself is functioning properly, then this condition could be an alternate cause of your problem, and is common to all rimfires which are excessively dry fired.

What's excessive? I think any dryfiring at all is excessive with rimfires.

Jar

quote:

Originally posted by JarheadNY:
Misfiring rimfires are often the outcome of dry firing.

If/when the firing pin impacts the empty chamber rim, repeated dry firing will indent/peen that portion of the chamber rim. This lessens the effect of the firing pin impacting the cartridge rim, and eventually results in misfires similar to what you describe.

If the firing pin itself is functioning properly, then this condition could be an alternate cause of your problem, and is common to all rimfires which are excessively dry fired.

What's excessive? I think any dryfiring at all is excessive with rimfires.

Jar

A $20 or so .22Lr chamber iron from Brownells, will take that little area right off. It is a must have tool for anyone buying used rimfires.