As I mentioned in a previous post, I have just assembled a new Ruger 10/22 for my daughter.

As you can see in the photo below, this was taken after a variety of ammo was fired in it.

Is there anyway to stop or reduce this, as it seems to happen rather quickly.

That looks pretty extreme for a typical 10/22. I don't think you can stop it but you can slow it down with a stronger recoil spring, or try stretching yours a bit.

How many rounds did that take? We used to shoot ours 1000-1500 rounds between cleanings and the deposits were significant (not like that) but didn't affect function. Also, I run mine with a dry lube so there's no moisture to attract sludge. I tear it down once a year and pick out the hard deposits.

I am not sure how many rounds were fired until this happened.

May be around 400 rounds.

That is the reason I was wondering about it.

I will take it apart and clean it, then lube withy a dry lube and see what happens.

Thanks for the advice.

This may seem a little exotic, but can some of the internals be coated with a fluoropolymer like PAM on a frying pan? Back in the receiver the temperatures might be low enough so as not to degrade the fluorpolymer (burned teflon emits a poisonous gas).

Or maybe electropolished so that there is a smaller and smoother surface area for the fouling to cling to?

That's why they call semis blow-back actions .They blow powder and residue back into the gun !
You might check each powder type for accuracy and residue and pick the best combination.
Some are very clean , some very dirty.

Clean and lube the inside of the gun with Prolix.

It leaves a dry lube behind that does not attract dust.

I have used it in my Browning 22.

Also try the Hornady Spray Gun Cleaner and Lube.

It ccleans and flushes out like Gunscrubber,but it leaves a dry lube behind as well.

Also what 22 ammo are you shooting?

I have never had a 22LR with that much fouling in it...

That's pretty extreme for anything around 400 rounds. I suspect the action is opening too soon, hence the mention of a replacement recoil spring. The only other cause I can think of other than a weak spring is over-lubrication which would also contribute to the accumulation that much sludge.

I'm sure Wolf and Volquartsen offer replacement kits for the entire rifle or just recoil springs. Even a new Ruger replacement should be better than that>

The ammo is an assortment of Eley Match, Edge, TENEX, Tenex Ultimate and Sport.

I have taken the gun apart, gave it a thorough cleaning, and have done the bedding job on it.

I am in the process of changing the computer in our CNC lathe that we make our bullets on.

The PC packed up - it is 10 years old.

We are replacing it with a new model.

FWIW, I shoot a lot of Ely in mine and don't see that much build up.

Since you are shooting only match (low velocity) ammo the spring has probably been replaced with a lighter one. It may be just a bit too light but your problem is carbon fouling and is exacerbated by too much petroleum lube.

A thorough cleaning and a coating of a silicone based wax may help retard the deposits but - BIG BUT- you can't use anything but silicone once you start because adding a petroleum based lube will turn the whole mess into a waxy gelatine that is very hard to clean out. Most of the dry lubes that I know of are graphite and that is not good for your action. Graphite is a lapping (grinding) compound and attracts moisture from the air.

Perhaps more frequent cleaning and lubes made for sliding contact would be your best alternative in this case.

Paul,

The spring is the standard factory one.

We have only replaced the hammer and trigger spring.

I have finished the bedding on the rifle, and hopefully will be able to shoot it next week - too many things to do in the workshop this week.

I had one that would do this. After a while you would have to assist the bolt forward when it got to dirty. Mine filled up the extractor slot more than what your picture shows. The target barrel shot better than I could so I just pulled it apart and kept it clean. I could put the factory barrel back on and no problems...one had factory chamber other had a Bentz chamber??? Just sayen, wouldn't think that would come into play but it did.

Be aware that a lighter hammer will let the breech open sooner than the factory hammer, since the inertia is less. I also think that the bolt spring might be a bit weak. Someone in Precision Shooting once wrote that the old Stevens semi auto .22 had the right idea by venting the left side of the breech, to let gases out easier. Might try drilling a few 1/8" holes in the left side of the receiver, right behind the barrel end, like 3 in a vertical line. See if that helps. Maybe do two lines, 1/4" apart. The Stevens had four slots for venting crud and gases.

How far do the empty cases eject, this will give an indication of the 'violence' of the breach block being blown back and if a heavier spring would work. Provided empty cases just clear the action every time there is no need to have them being ejecting any further than that.

My Gevarm semi auto which fires from an open breach reliably ejects sub-sonic ammo cases about a foot out from the rifle and stays very clean in the breach area. It has no firing pin, just a raised ridge across the breach face to fire the round, and no extractor.

Buy a volquartzen , easy fix.

quote:

Originally posted by Saeed:
As I mentioned in a previous post, I have just assembled a new Ruger 10/22 for my daughter.

As you can see in the photo below, this was taken after a variety of ammo was fired in it.

Is there anyway to stop or reduce this, as it seems to happen rather quickly.

wow thats a lot of crap on that breech...... i've never had such a problem with my 1022 custom........ i only shoot federal ammo as that is what the gun likes best..... i do get a star of powder lead mix (i assume) on the muzzle of the rifle...........

democrat or american.. choose wisely.....

I have several 10/22s over many years, shot 'em a bunch, all kind of ammo and never seen anything like this. Wow.
I have to go with the recoil spring too. Factories can have oopses....


.

Saeed
That goo can only get there from the ammo and the bolt opening before combustion pressure drops to zero.

I would recommend you try high speed plated ammo and a heavier recoil spring, standard hammer and standard hammer spring.

Saeed, if you can get it, you might spray the inside of the action with E&L GUN LUBE. It is a dry graphite spray. I have used it on many firearms. Powder residue doesn't stick to it very well.