Hi everybody. What do you guys do to help prevent rust on blued guns?
I think I remember reading about Johnson's Paste Wax put on all metal and wood parts.

I was Elk hunting last weekend and packed my 375 Win mod. 94 while hunting in the timber. I got caught in a down pour and it was about an hour before I got back to the truck and surface rust had already started on some places.

So what works good for metal and for wood? Besides Stainless and synthetic stocks, lol.

The Elk were hiding pretty good and we didn't find any until about 20min till dark Sunday night. Hopefully they'll still be in the same zip code when we get back up there.

TIA
Glenn.

quote:

Originally posted by Lar45:
Hi everybody. What do you guys do to help prevent rust on blued guns?
I think I remember reading about Johnson's Paste Wax put on all metal and wood parts.

I was Elk hunting last weekend and packed my 375 Win mod. 94 while hunting in the timber. I got caught in a down pour and it was about an hour before I got back to the truck and surface rust had already started on some places.

So what works good for metal and for wood? Besides Stainless and synthetic stocks, lol.

The Elk were hiding pretty good and we didn't find any until about 20min till dark Sunday night. Hopefully they'll still be in the same zip code when we get back up there.

TIA
Glenn.

Jhonsons paste wax works for me!!

I'm partial to RIG.

Jeff

There are a couple other products that work spectacularly to very good , and they arn,t as gooy ........ My favorite is called Corrosion Block .. It comes in an off white ish and blue colored aerosol can .. It,s amazing ..... spray it on and it protects from salt spray , so your sweat and rain would be no problem .... A friend uses Metal Seal ,, I think it is a Birchwood Casey product ... He has been using it on his 416 Rem since the first year they came out , and the rifle has almost NO rust on it ... And he always uses his boat to access where he hunts out of Sitka .........

As one of the tests I did with Corrosion Block , I sprayed down some chain saw files ,, some brand new and some used and put them in the top tray of a plastic tool box I have that leaks ...... left it out on the dock for a fall @ 8 fathom Bight . let the water freeze during the winter under my camp .. Drained the water out in the next summer , files looked fine ,, I,ve drug that tool box all over and left it out doors , I,ve drained the water out of the trays where the files were submerged in a rain , salt air / spray brine many times since .... I may have re applied it once , but I don,t think so , but mayby ... That was in Sept of 2001 ... I used a file from the bunch this summer and it is still shard and had NO rust on it ........ .... Un believable stuff ...

I've used RIG for years with good results but I might try Corrosion Block. Where do you get the stuff?

I don,t have a $$ stake in the product , but it works so well on everything I have tried it on ... Their phone # is 1-708-474-3739... Midweast Corrosion Products .... Apparantly it is a marine version of the military ACF - 50 ...

There are other products that are Lanolin based .. I can,t think of the name of one I used , but it works GREAT ..... They coat the frame of float planes with the stuff in Ketchikan ..... The tail section of a Beaver , Otter , Cessna is very susceptable to salt corrosion .... They sometimes rust thru and break ...., That will keep you nervous next time you get in a float plane .....

This is the stuff:

http://www.nocorrosion.com/corrosion-control.htm

How does that stuff wrok in the cold???? I use rifles and shotguns in the fall when it is wet and sometimes well below zero where I need to be very careful about what lube is where.... Any experience with it in the bolt of a rifle at -10 or colder?

-phil

It SAYS the stuff doesn't thicken at low temps and its used on airplanes, and upper altitudes get pretty cold. I wonder if the grease wouldn't be a good substitute for RIG gun grease? Anybody tried that?

Will have to give the stuff a try...thanks guys! I've heard that RIG is no longer going to be made. If the rumor is true. I'll be needing an alternative.

Thanks again,

Jeff

Looks excellent, I'll have to order a can. tks.

Does it leave a visible coating? like spray paint? or just an oiled type finish?

A bit of a coating , Not much .... If it is sprayed on then wiped up some it isn,t much at all .... On most things I really hose them down with the stuff ........It works great against electrolysis also ..... I,ll try some in the cold and see how it works in a Rem 788 Trigger @ 40 below and report back ....

Corrosion X works very well around salt water, but I don't know how it would work on triggers, firing pins and main springs in cold weather. It is also excellant on electronics, they used to show a TV set submerged in corrosion X that was playing. The shrimp fishermen around here use a lot of it. The original Corrosion X is kind of thick, but they also make a thinner version for guns, fishing reels, etc. Winter down here only lasts 2 days, so I don't know much about sub-zero conditions.

quote:

Originally posted by akpls:
This is the stuff:

http://www.nocorrosion.com/corrosion-control.htm

Now that RIG is no longer avaialble to us, I think that stuff would be worth a try.
Johnson's Paste Wax is a very good alternative, and rain won't wash it off.
When I was in the Army, we had a RIG type grease we used to protect large caliber ammunition rounds, howitzer stuff. It worked very well on guns too. We need to find something that will work to -60 degrees F, and cling tenaciously to steel so it won't wash off during a downpour.

Don

quote:

Originally posted by DMB:
Johnson's Paste Wax is a very good alternative, and rain won't wash it off.
Don

Ditto's Don.
Johnson's works great, gun is slick, but all guns are slick in rain and snow. Heat the metal with a hair dryer then apply wax wipe off and head for the wet stuff.

Dirk

You guys that are using Corrosion Block....anyone used it on an old gun with soft soldered barrels? I hunt quite often with old guns, and worry about possible damage to solder joints. I've emailed the manufacture, and am waiting for their reply. Thought ask you guys, in the mean time.

Where do you AK guys buy this stuff?

Thanks,

Jeff

I buy it at Tideland Tackle and Marine , or Murray Pacific ,, Most commercial fishing suppliers have it on the shelf .......

I don,t know about old guns ,, but they dunk VHF radios that have sunk with a boat in the stuff ,,,, there is lots of solder on the board of a radio doesn,t hurt them ...?????????????????

I see the grease avilible on the internet for $10.00 for a pound tub. Just costs another $10.00 to ship it.

Kleen Bore makes a product, Rust Guardit. It is a bit tacky to he touch and keep it out of the firing mechanisms but it will stay on in the rain and snow. Wipes off with WD40.

quote:

Originally posted by .429:
Kleen Bore makes a product, Rust Guardit. It is a bit tacky to he touch and keep it out of the firing mechanisms but it will stay on in the rain and snow. Wipes off with WD40.

.

I,ll stick with Corrosion Block .........

quote:

Originally posted by dirklawyer:

quote:

Originally posted by DMB:
Johnson's Paste Wax is a very good alternative, and rain won't wash it off.
Don

Ditto's Don.
Johnson's works great, gun is slick, but all guns are slick in rain and snow. Heat the metal with a hair dryer then apply wax wipe off and head for the wet stuff.

Dirk

Do you apply to wood the same way? Does it give the wood a high gloss?

Thanks for the info gumboot. I was able to talk to the folks at CB, and they assured me that soft solder is safe with their product. Can also order over the phone. They will ship the non-aerosol products to AK via UPS. I ordered 2ea 4oz pump sprays, and 2ea 2oz grease. Look forward to giving it a try. Thanks again!

Jeff

I recommend eezox. I use the spray can and follow directions. Check their website www.eezox.com. IMO, this product works exactly as claimed. I have used two years for both blue and stainless rifles and I am impressed with how well it works.

I used to use eez ox , the problem is it can leave a big film and sometimes salt can get under that film .... I would like to try Ballistol .

quote:

Originally posted by dirklawyer:

quote:

Originally posted by DMB:
Johnson's Paste Wax is a very good alternative, and rain won't wash it off.
Don

Ditto's Don.
Johnson's works great, gun is slick, but all guns are slick in rain and snow. Heat the metal with a hair dryer then apply wax wipe off and head for the wet stuff.

Dirk

Gotta try the hair dryer as I've never done that. Sounds like the best route to go.
Thanks,

Don

I have used ezoxx for over ten years now. I coat my guns once a year and haven't had a problem with rust since. wipe on with a cloth dampend in the stuff and wipe off the excess. It leaves a film but it just makes the gun slick like the paste wax does. I works at my place even when the swamp cooler is running in the summer.DW

I like Eezox best because it works as advertised and leaves a dry feeling surface that does not attract dirt.

If it is a decent blue job from the maker from the outset you should not have a problem IMHO! Rusted after one hour? That is terrible quality workmanship on the gun to start with I would contact the manufacturer about that.

I like simple things for simple problems.

First of all WD - 40 sspray chases away water. It will actually dry out your ignition so it will dry your gun parts where you can't reach.

Secondly I use the most universal, tested, proven product known. Motor oil !

All of the fancy hullabaloo about special creations costly formulas, snake oil, for rust don't impress me.

I always carry spare quart bottles of motor oil in my vehicle, for the engine. I also carry Scott blue shop towels. They are latex based and don't disintegrate. I simply pour some good old fashioned motor oil on a towel and wipe down my gun(s) after each use. In addition to protecting from rain, snow, it also protects from sweaty hands and body oils/corrosives.

In a few days the oil seems to evaporatse so it doesn't leave a permanent oily surface. I have used it for over 50 years and it prevents my guns from rusting so I suppose that is a good recommendation and a solid piece of advice.

Kdace

anybody tried this stuff? I use it on my car, but haven't tried it yet on the guns.

It is made by the same company as corrosion X.

http://www.corrosionx.com/rejex.html

Well, I bought some of the Corrosion Block...both the oil and the grease. During this latest cold snap, I put some of each, out on the deck. In below zero temps, the oil gels up a bit, and grease stiffens some. Don't know that I'd want to use it in a winter gun. Should be fine in spring/fall temps. Will have to wait for warmer days, to see how the anti-corrosion part of it works; before I trust it on a gun, in bad weather.

Jeff

I have found out that you can combine the superior wear characteristics of CrMo with even better corrosionresistanse than stainless steel by nitride treating the CrMo (both exterior and interioer of the barrel). Stainless steel ia as most know, not corrosionproof - just more resistant. But a nitride treated CrMo barrel will resist rust even better than the "stainless" alloys used for barrelmaking.. And it gives a nice deep, matte black finish..
in addition it hardens the surface as well (up to 50-60 HRc), making it longer lasting..
I have used both stainless steel rifles and nitride treated CrMo rifles under saltwater conditions when hunting seals, and there is no visible difference - both resist corrosion extremely well.

Another application is TALON (Titanium / Aluminum / Nitride). It is extremely hard and very corrosion resistant. Unlike Titanium Nitride which is gold in color. The TALON finish is dark gray or black. It will make your action extremely slick.
The three down falls are is that it is hard to find a place apply the coating, it is expensive (at least $600.00 for a rifle) and so hard you might not be able to do much with the rifle in the way of future mods due to milling difficulties.
I believe it to be the ultimate finish; very hard, corrosion resistant and durable.

eezridr

You are right. I do not know whether you can use it INSIDE the barrel?? An advantage with nitride treatment is that it can be used inside barrels (with lapping afterwards to remove a 2my thick surfacelayer) making the inside corrosionproof as well as harder..

I do not think they coat the inside the barrel with TALON. Everything else. I like it on stainless guns. It is a personal thing, I just prefer a blued or darker gun over any type of stainless (Visual).

EZ

Have it duracoated, then you'll never have to worry about it again.

www.lauerweaponry.com

unless you don't want something permanent.