Not considering the calibers I have an A-Bolt with synthetic stock, H&K SLB200 with a wood stock, a Steyr ProHunter with synthetic stock and a Steyr Luxus with a wood stock that is a closet queen. I am concerned about the reliability of these under adverse condition ie cold, frozen wet and shock resistance. Any one with real Alaska Guide experience and or hunting would be greatly appreciated.

Having lived and hunted in Alaska my answer would be a little different than the question you have posed. First, which one do you shoot best? Second, which one is the flattest shooting? Third, which one is the lightest to carry? Finally, which one do you have the most experience and confidence? Both will function in adverse conditions if they are in good working order. I always carried a pull thru bore cleaner unril I got a wad of frozen mud stuck in the barrel, then I began carrying a set of cleaing rods. A small light cleaning kit is always good to have with you in your pack all the time.

Dall is spot on about a small rod or kit for the bore. Caliber wise is anything from a 250-3000 to a 300 mag,shoot your gun a 200yd,300yd,400yds maybe even 500yd if you can hit at that range. Most rams are taken around 200yds or so but depending on the terrain there are exceptions. A Leupold scope is the most weather resistant scope made and wood stocks worked forever and still do.

Thanks for the cleaning rod tip. The rifle that I can shoot best is the one that I will train with. All the riffles shoot well but I will probably break out the closet queen and the H&K since the distances are modest. I shoot F-Class and usually get 1/3 X's at a given distance. Since this is 8 months away PT is beginning along with my New Years Resolutions. I live at 7500 feet above sea level so that is an advantage for physical conditioning but a handicap with bullet trajectory. My son is with the Air Force in Anchorage doing search and rescue with the 212th rescue squadron so this has been a lifelong dream for both of us and now it is advantageous to go on this hunt. He is a gear guy with a lot of realtime outdoor experience there. Any way i see how this developsand greatly appreciate the help.

When I hunted I used a Dragon Fly pack with the gun scabbard in the middle, helped keep it out of the elements, but the weather was pretty nice the whole time, pratice shooting with black electrical tape over the tip. Helps keep out shale and dirt etc. I always carry a Otis cleaning zip kit. I shot mine with a Rem 700TI in 280 with a 140 Barnes at 300 yards, I was sighted in 2in high @100

And now am looking for boots. I have hiking boots but I don't feel they will have enough ankle support for this type of hunt. I like full leather boots with aggrevive soles. Any suggestions. Thanks

Ted

Meindels,,Kenetrek,,,Cabelas Alaskan

Notice it's wet in a couple pics,,real raingear

Ok, here is a tip I learned from an old time Super Slam hunter who lives in Anchorage: Pick your socks first, then go shopping for boots with those socks. Try on several different brands and go up on size at least one half. After finding what fits you best, get out and walk and climb and descend and get the feel for them. Nothing is worse than poor fitting boots. I know, I did it on my first sheep hunt and hobbled on bloody stumps. In fact it was so bad I would stick my feet in a glacier fed stream until they were numb to get my boots on then walk through the pain...never again! I bought some Danners that fit me real well. Just remember you will wade through some streams on slick rocks. Some take their boots off and some just plow on. I have done both, but I always wear a pair of socks to lessen the slippage on those damn round river rocks.

Rain gear is not an option! Get the very best you can afford.

BTW, my choice in rifles was a .300 Win Mag, because their were some bears in the area. I would likely use either the .300 or my .270 if I were to go again.

Make sure you go to the store to try on the boots they will make it ether the best hunt of your life or the worst. I use gaiters that go up to my knee there light and you can cross steams without getting wet. On my sheep hunt taking off my boots at every water crossing would not have been an option we followed the crick up a canyon for about 6 miles crossing it every 100 yards or so but the gaiters and my la sportive boots keep my dry.

Echo what all others said. I used a wood stocked Kimber, would use a synthetic if I was to do it over again (and I HATE synthetic stocks).

For boots, I went with LOWA boots, they worked great for me. My guide had boots that looked like what I used to use for telemark skiing (half height ski boots) - I think they were Koflach. It just depends on whether a minor roll of your ankle will end the hunt or have no effect.

RAINGEAR - cannot be stressed enough, get the best you can afford and not rain resistant, etc. that still feels like a fleece or other, get something that is water-proof rain gear.

With all of that said, the lighter you can get anything, including yourself, the better off you are. Lost 10 pounds from my waist before I left, was the best thing I could have done.

It's the hunt of a lifetime (but trust me, you will dream of going back), so try not to skimp, take the opportunity to upgrade your hunting gear. Lowa's are overkill for the hills of NY and PA, but the work just fine for me and strapping them on brings back great memories.

Good luck!

I've been looking at these boots for years but have never had the excuse to purchase them but now I think I do. They Are Altbergs from Great Britain. Here they are: Http://www.altberg.co.uk/Web/boots_archive_list.jsp

I used the Meindle Canada's boots, defently gators (Outdoor Research), Treking poles, and brought (Croc's) for stream crossing, Light weight and can wear around camp when airing out your boots.

As far as the PT stuff my son said that I need to wear out my Versa CLimber I have dropped 40 lbs from hiking in Guatemala. Believe it or not they have real steep mountains there. I am going back for another 10 weeks of teaching and will take advantage of my free time to break in the boots and lose more weight. I am taking the 7x64 rifles I have one is a short rifle (3-9 scope) with a full stock and the other is synthetic stock (2.5-10 scope) and a longer barrel. I can interchange ammo between these two as the same reloads shoot equally well in both rifles. I squirreled away about 2000 Partition Gold bullets at 160gr and they performed well on an antelope at 340 yards. Just getting the list together now. We drove my motor home there this past summer so when I get there early I can access similar terrain and train.

I really appreciate the input from those of you that have been there and done it.

quote:

Originally posted by tsiero:
I've been looking at these boots for years but have never had the excuse to purchase them but now I think I do. They Are Altbergs from Great Britain. Here they are: Http://www.altberg.co.uk/Web/boots_archive_list.jsp

I just did my first DIY as an Alaskan resident and hunt all the time for bears and moose, so I get out a lot and use a lot of different gear and a few different weapons. So for what that's worth.......

Boots....I typically would use gaiters, but the boot/pant set up I had this year made gaiters unnecessary. I used Scarpa Koflach Degree plastic boots. I would STRONGLY suggest getting a pair if you a. plan on doing some mountain hunting that you can use them for in the future as well or b. just want the best tool for the job! I've used full shank (Sparpa Liskamm) and 3/4 shank (Lowa Hunters) leather boots in the mountains and feel the plastics are the way to go. I used the Mountain Equipment Liskamm pant and it actually zips around my boot and acts as a gaiter. I was able to run across creeks without getting wet. The plastic boots hold up much better in the shale. A friend of mine cut a leather boot open on shale on day one or two of a sheep hunt and spent the rest of the hunt with a wet foot. Plastics also perform better under extreme weight (+100lbs....not likely an issue on a guided hunt). The other thing I'd recommend doing regardless of boot choice is replace the laces with kevlar laces. Solid kevlar is nice, but it's too thin to use the the lace locks on your boots. The kevlar core laces are the way to go in my oppinion. Koflach boots with kevlar laces are absolutely bomb proof and perfect for Alaskan sheep hunting in my oppinion. The downside to plastics that you frequently hear is that they do poorly on flat ground. I found that was not the case. I spent a lot of time chasing caribou after my sheep and had no problems what so ever of the "flat" tundra. Follow this link to my hunt report and you'll see the boots and pants. I have a gear report at the end which may be of benefit.

http://forums.accuratereloadin...8321043/m/9281016161

As for the rifle....lighter is better to a point. Too light can be hard to shoot accurately. That said lighter is better. Mountains are hard on weapons and Alaska isn't exactly known for being nice on weapons either. I'd recommend taking stainless/synthetic unless you don't care about getting a rifle "broken in". Keep the safe queen at home! Accurate is important within reason. 1.25" group stainless/synthetic or .25" wood/blued......yeah I'm taking the stainless/synthetic EVERY time in the mountains! Flat shooting is nice. I know some people who have shot multiple sheep and never shot one over 300 yards yet and many of them 200 or less. You don't exactly need a 30-378 weatherby to shoot sheep out to 300 yards! Besides sheep aren't that though. .25-308 calibres, stainless synthetic, 3-9 to 3-12 scope, with a scoped weight of 6.5-8lbs....that's my idea of a sheep rifle for Alaska.

Brett

As far as a rifle is concerned, I'd tend to agree on using the one you have the most confidence in. I've found over the years that confidence in your rifle is a very important factor. Practice with it and do it often. Nowadays, I think I'd lean towards a rifle with a synthetic stock but if I had more confidence in a rifle with a wood stock, I'd take that.
As an example, I have a pre-64, .270 Win. that I totally trust but it weighs probably in the neighborhood of 8 1/4 lbs. I HAD a POS (Kimber Montana to you folks on the Left Coast) in .270 WSM that was consistantly inconsistant even off the bench. It weighed somewhat less than the Mod. 70. Even though I wanted to use the WSM, I ended up taking the Pre-64 since the confidence factor with the POS (Kimber) was ZERO. BTW, after a lot of headaches, the POS hit the bricks south.
Adding to the comment about taking a cleaning rod, I understand the situation but... We never take a cleaning rod on a sheep hunt. Instead, wrap the muzzle with electrical tape and then add several layers around the circumfrence of the barrel. This keeps out any crud that could possibly enter the barrel and if you take a shot, just remove the tape on the muzzle and replace it with tape you wrapped around the barrel. No problems and no change of bullet imact. Also, when we hunt open country, our rifles are carried strapped across our packboards with quick release straps. Don't carry your rifle in your hands, if you do need to get at it, it's very easy & fast to do so. BTDT, believe me. Keep your hands free to use your walking stick - you'll want one. BTW, no way would I waste money on trekking poles. Just cut a walking stick out of a willow bush.
As to boots. I would highly recommend you get a pair of Han-Wags. I had a pair of La Sportiva boots that I thought were fine. I even used them on 2 sheep hunts. On the 3rd trip, I ended up with blisters on both heels and we had to cut the trip short. The Dr. told me that the boots were at least 1 size too small and that I'd end up losing both of my large toe toenails. I did, too. Believe me, it's an expensive bush plane ride into the Brooks to have to cut it short. Some guys on 25-Hr. Campfire recommended that I get a pair of Han-Wags, so last Feb. I placed my order with Lathrop & Sons. I finally got them this last July but they fitted like a glove. I literally put them on, & took a 1 1/2 mile "breakin" hike with a 40 lb. bag of water softener salt in my packboard. Absolutely no problem at all. They're expensive but compared to having to pay for an early plane ride out of the mountains, they're cheap.
Lathrop & Sons is a top notch outfit to work with. In closing, I'm not actually complaining about my La Sportiva boots. It's difficult to find a store here in Fbks. that actually knows how to fit a boot. When I ordered them, I basically had to guess at my foot size. Other than the problem I had with them, they did perform fine. I'd still get the Han-Wag and I'd stay away from the plastic type. You aren't doing technical mountain climbing and if you have to carry a heavy pack for several miles to a spike camp, plastic is too stiff. Treated as instructed by Lathrop & Sons, my Han-Wags didn't leak at all.
Sorry for the long diatribe, one thing leads to another. Enjoy preparing for your trip & have a good one.
Bear in Fairbanks

Well like most of the others I have also hunted Dall. I used a pair of old Browning boots which I retired there. I did just buy for my Elk hunts the new Under Armour Siberians. They fit and do a great job. Would have been a great asset on the Dall Hunt. Might also consider having some slip on waders. You will be crossing alot of water and these just slip over your boots when you need them. Most guides use them instead of hip or chest waders.
Gun the Blaser Pro 300 Weatherby can shoot the sheep a mile away. (or close to it)
Suggestions
Good sleeping Pad air blow up type.

Big Bulky Binos were of almost of no use everything was almost decided on with a spotting scope which the guide has. So just pocket models I take.

Pants with knee pads almost the most important clothing item.

On endurance I am from Clovis treadmill did good. Its really the 14 to 16 hours of walking thats the tough part. Take good foot care products, toe pads, moleskin and toe nail. clippers
Oh well my 2 cents
Larry

I would look at the rifle you own that is synthetic and SS. If it is a flat shooter, lighter weight, and you shoot it well, consider it as your first choice.

Sheep are pretty easy to kill as far as big game animals go. I would think just about any reasonable caliber would be more than up to the task.

Cheers,

Matt

I would tend to agree with the stainless and synthetic. I've killed sheep using tennis shoes in shorts and tank top, extra toughs, and many different types of boots. I have finally landed on the Lowa GTX's, but want something lighter as I don't need the ankle support. Been shooting a tikka t3 stainless .300wsm, but will end up getting a .257 weatherby to be my go to sheep rifle when the $$ becomes available.

One of the Game Management Areas we applied for is near TOK. Driving up to that part of the world is a real eyeopener. Boots seem to be the area I need to spend some time researching although I never had ad an issues in the past with any of my decisions. I have two stocks for my 7x64 so I will put the synthetic one on. I don't hane a synthetic option for my 30-06 semi-auto. Have any one tried the Extreme Shock Bullets. I used some in a AR 223 on coyotes and was totally impressed. I will leave the experimentation to low value animals not this hunt but I will find out from the manufacturer how they will work on heavy furred animals. I have been watching some videos to get an idea of the obstacles and challenges and your comments have been greatly appreciated.

I haven't used that bullet. I used nosler accubonds this year and they did just fine on sheep. I like the high BC.

As for boots. One of the draw backs to older models of plastic boots is their lesser ability on flatter ground. That said the new Koflaches from Scarpa are not like the old plastics. My hunting partner has used plastics before and said they were much improved over other plastics on flatter ground. They have a jointed ankle, so some degree of dorsi/plantar flexion of the ankle can be achieved. For me never using plastics before I had no problems what so ever on flat ground. I also had zero break in time. Yeah I hiked in them plenty before the hunt. What I mean is that they were as comfortable to me on prep hike 1 as they were on the last day of my sheep hunt. And even after packing out a sheep with an extremely heavy pack I have yet to get a blister in them. I think this is for two reasons. First the inner booty is highly forgiving and I believe that most of the friction occurs between the outer plastic boot and the booty. Secondly much like a downhill ski boot you can heat mold the boot to your feet for a superior fit. Again if this is your only mountain/sheep/goat hunt you may not want to buy a pair of boots for one hunt. That said if you're doing more hunts or just want the best mountain hunting boots there are (in my oppinion) try them out!

Brett

A. Take the rifle you have the most confidence with and practice shooting it out to 500 yards. If it's also your lightest rifle, that's a plus. Don't worry about what bullet to use, anyone premium bullet is fine. Sheep are not cape buffalo.

B. Get in the best physical condition you can possibly be in and then go the extra distance to get in still better shape for your age.

C. Get the best boots you can afford and that fit you and are comfortable. Lowa's; Meindels; Scarpa; Lathrop, etc. boots you can wear all day while climbing in shale and rock and side hilling. Make sure you bring blister treatment items regardless. Change your socks at mid day and don't let your socks get damp. Ruined feet will ruin your hunt faster than a 10 day blizzard.

D. Unless you are a rock climber or some other type of mountain man and have Wallenda type balance, get a good pair of trekking poles with baskets and use them. They will save your butt time and time again and make things much, much safer for you.

My advise on Rifles and boots is to take ones you are already comfortable with.
when I was guiding sheep in the Chugach and Talkeetna mtns I would wear out a set of Lowa or Danner boots every season. In the Brooks range I guided a number of hunts in La Cross ankle-fit hip boots with Converse Chuck Taylor all-stars as backup.
Anything from a 243 up will do fine.

I have been on three Sheep hunts in unit 14C Chugach State Park. I just applied again for the lottery for 2012.

I have taken two Sheep on those three hunts. One was at 125 yds., the other a cross canyon shot at a lazed 435 yds. on video.

For all Alaskan hunts, with the exception of Brown & Grizzly bear or Moose, I use .300 W.M. with a 3-10X Zeiss scope and handloaded 180 Gr. Nosler Partitions. You must know you gun, your dope and be comfortable shooting in field conditions, out to whatever range is within your comfort range. This set up comes in just under 7 lbs. fully loaded, well balanced and a pleasure to carry and shoot.

As for boots, I tried the Cabela's Alaska boot. Which like many things Cabela's makes, were crap. The Gore-tex lining started leaking and they would not even provide a refund. Most things from Cabela's are not up to the task of many AK hunts.

On my Outfitter's recomendation. I bought Meindl Canada Pro's, from a shop in Vancouver. I beleive they are the only North American Dealer for REAL German Meindls. I have had them re-conditioned after the second sheep hunt and a bunch of other hunts in between those two.

I tried the Koflac boots from Barney's on a Goat hunt. They were warm and more water resistent than leather boots and were great up in the rocks while climbing. But, on the hike in and out, they were like walkign inn ski boots. The Meindls are the best of both worlds.
Good arch support, good ankle support, good in the rocks and I feel like I can walk up walls with them. They are pricey for real ones, but you get what you pay for. There is no substitute for the real thing.

quote:

Originally posted by Northway:
I would tend to agree with the stainless and synthetic. I've killed sheep using tennis shoes in shorts and tank top, extra toughs, and many different types of boots. I have finally landed on the Lowa GTX's, but want something lighter as I don't need the ankle support. Been shooting a tikka t3 stainless .300wsm, but will end up getting a .257 weatherby to be my go to sheep rifle when the $$ becomes available.

Hello Northway!

I too have used Meindls and found them to be one of the best.
Recently my son and I have been wearing Kenetreks. They are quite similar to Meindls but a little softer and easier to break in.



And my current favorite mountain rifle is my Borden 30-06 with a 6x42 Leupold.

quote:

Originally posted by EB:
get a good pair of trekking poles with baskets and use them. They will save your butt time and time again and make things much, much safer for you.

Fabulous advice! I would not consider a mountain hunt without TWO trecking poles. They make all the difference in the world regarding safety and minimizing fatigue. If you don't have a pair I'd go with either the Black Diamond or the Lekkie FLICKLOCK carbon fiber poles. Avoid the screw tight mechanism kind.

Brett

As others have mentioned if you go with leather boots Scarpa, Lowa, Kenetreck, and Meindl all make quality sheep hunting boots. I would leave the Danners, Cabelas, Rockies, ect at home, but that's my 2 cents.

Brett

458: What model Kennetreks? Thanks

I have and like the Mtn Extreme model with 400gr insulation but I see that they are having a 1/2 price sale now on the more rugged Mtn Guide model and think it might be even better.

7mm Remington Mag.... Have you ever been Experience'd.. I Have...
AK

quote:

Originally posted by SmallCal:
Echo what all others said. I used a wood stocked Kimber, would use a synthetic if I was to do it over again (and I HATE synthetic stocks).

For boots, I went with LOWA boots, they worked great for me. My guide had boots that looked like what I used to use for telemark skiing (half height ski boots) - I think they were Koflach. It just depends on whether a minor roll of your ankle will end the hunt or have no effect.

RAINGEAR - cannot be stressed enough, get the best you can afford and not rain resistant, etc. that still feels like a fleece or other, get something that is water-proof rain gear.

With all of that said, the lighter you can get anything, including yourself, the better off you are. Lost 10 pounds from my waist before I left, was the best thing I could have done.

It's the hunt of a lifetime (but trust me, you will dream of going back), so try not to skimp, take the opportunity to upgrade your hunting gear. Lowa's are overkill for the hills of NY and PA, but the work just fine for me and strapping them on brings back great memories.

Good luck!

I'll echo this above post. I also used a wood stocked Kimber, and had the Lowa Sheephunter boots. The boots might be the best $400 I have spent.

Nice post. I like all the advice here from people who are experinced.
Like most here, I consider myself a sheep hunter and I agree with almost everything that's been said. I'm right at 30 years of mountain hunting and I've been amazed with the advances in gear that just seems to make these types of hunts more comfortable.
My first sheep hunt was in an old pair of leather work boots and my rifle was a 10 pound Mod. 70 in 300 WM. It was a solo hunt and I carried everything myself, including a 2 man 10 pound tent (only tent I owned) and canned goods for food (couldn't afford light weight food).
My current outfit is La Sportiva boots and a nice, well used, Brown Precision built (1982) 300 WM that weighs in a 6.75 pound fully loaded (2 rounds) in the mag.
Sheep hunting is all about what gets you to the sheep in their environment. My advice is exactly the same as whats all ready been given, pick the rifle that you feel confident with and any of the top named boots that are comfortable and fit you. I will say the boots are a bigger deal then the rifle, because if you can't get to the top of the mountain you have no chance at a Ram. A always fit the boots with what you will typically wear for socks, I like 2 socks, a liner and then a heavier sock to cushion my feet. I always take care of my feet, stopping regularly to check them and I will put on moleskin if I feel any rubs at all. I have never had a blister sheep hunting and plan on never having one. Keep your feet dry, use gaters and when crossing deep streams I put on my rain pants, tie them tight around my boots and go quickly across. I've crossed thigh deep rivers this way and have not gotten wet. I use a single trekking pole or shooting sticks to help climb now and carry my rifle in a scabbard or quick release gun sling.
Good luck and enjoy the view.

Thanks to all. Now the ball is in my court and enjoy the preparation. Like fishing, the sport isn't called catching.

tsiero -

Hunted just outside of Tok a year and a half ago, so that's what my experience is based on. As far as your bullet, are you meaning the Triple Shocks? I used a 7mm-08 with 140 grain Barnes tipped triple shocks. Worked great for me, your 7x64 should be a great rig!

Keep us updated and good luck!

No I haven't used Triple shocks. These are like Nosler Partitions but have an inverted steel cup at the bottom "H" of the bullet. My experience is any bullet will work if you put it where it belongs. Although I did have a problem with some dedicated varmit 22 cal bullets blowing up on shoulder hits on coyotes at close range.

Damn Waterrat, those are some fine rams. Especially the last one!

quote:

Originally posted by SBT:
Damn Waterrat, those are some fine rams. Especially the last one!

X2!!! What a curl on the last one!!

Lots of good advice here, As a former guide here in Alaska I have seen on many occassions people showing up with crappy boots. The plastic boots are fantastic when hunting steep ground, but what I have found is wearing a coolmax liner sock from cabelas under your other sock of choice really helps buy reducing friction betwenn your foot and your hunting sock. I personally will take the time and adjust the laces depending on the terrain. I hunted with another guid who never did either and at the end of sheep season his shins were raw and bloody.

Another thing to concider is a pair of instep crampons,their light and a real life saver when side hilling steep grassy areas. They also help if you need to cross small glaciers; although I don't recomend it, as you can go 0 to 60 on the seat of your pants in no time; not to worry there is usually a pile of big rocks at the bottom that will stop you.

I did not see it mentioned here, but one more tip would be to stay away from cotton or wool with your wardrobe stay with fleece or my favorite microtex from cabellas. Both are light and you can almost wring them dry.