Use the Koflach plastic boots with the removable liners - be sure and get a well fitted insole and make sure your heel does not move around or lift - whatever you choose, make sure they work well with crampons and practice with the combination - nothing worse than being in the high country when the weather hits and you didn't bring your crampons, guaranteed fun trip down the mountain!!! Check in mountaineering stores to get a look at more options - KMule

There seems to be two camps of thought on this issue. One side says Meindl/Russell/etc and the other side says Koflachs/hardshells. Personally, I use Meindls but want to get some Russells too.

It's a bit like the Pac/bunny boot versus Mukluk style cold weather debate. I personally prefer lighter weight and a little flex instead of a hard shell with it's heavier weight and zero flex. My knees thank me.

I just ordered a a pair of Meindle's Canada boots (11 inch tops) from Cabela's which I will send along to hoffman boots and have corked.

That's what I will be wearing this fall on several Goat and Sitka Blacktail hunts.

The best boots I have owned so far are my Meindle Super Cracks.

A buddy of mine swears by his La Sportivas. I can't remember the model, but it is the second from the top in the mountaineering category. His old La Sportiva Makalus were nicknamed La Spongetiva's...couldn't keep them dry. Apparently these new ones are much better.

Cheers,
Canuck

Thanks to everyone! This has been very helpful!!

Cheers,

HUNTR

I've been told that alot of the men in the south of france use the "fireman type" for sheep and goats. I don't think they are hunting them

I have been active in a wide variety of mountaineering activities for 40+ yrs. and have worked in many aspects of forestry in the mountains of B.C. and Alberta. I have also sold-fitted boots for two major mountaineering outlets; I have used 20+ pairs of highend and custom boots during this time.



I have owned and worn out 6 pr. Meindls, they were good boots 30 yrs. ago, they are now not a boot I would buy. I had a pair of Russells made for me in 1988, what a joke, they were among the worst boots I have ever had. I have used all of the big name European and North American stuff and right now the finest boots available are made in B.C. and they are not cheap.



For North American traditional style boots, the finest available are Viberg's from Victoria, B.C. These are like the boots made by White's of Spokane and Pierre Paris of Vancouver in the "good old days", in fact, they are better.

They will custom make, have regular sizes and a variety of models to cover any use; do not buy their pacboots, Schnee's are the best.



For European style climbing boots, Charley Van Gorkum of Smithers, B.C. makes fabulous made-to-measure boots, all my future boots will come from him @ $600.00+ per pr. and it's worth it. He is a very nice guy and learned his craft from Randy Merrell-my wife has had a pair of his boots for 10 yrs.



Almost all of the big European names produce boots which are crap compared to the 60s and 70s and finding a pair with leather that is honest rough-out rather than "nubuk" is difficult. I find Scarpa and Lowa to be about the best of the current boots; make sure to buy leather lined boots as "Gore-Tex" type liners are a sales gimmick and a waste of money in footwear.



I do not care for plastic double boots, that is a personal decision after using them a bit, however, if you buy these make sure the salesperson KNOWS how to fit them as they differ from regular boots in this respect. If, the salesperson does not know what a "Brannock Device" is or what your "met heads" are, they are not bootfitters.



Finally, your boots are MORE important than a fancier rifle in the mountains, if you buy top notch ones such as Van Gorkums, it will pay off in miles and miles of enjoyable and safe travel and better hunting.

Good show my man Buy a 600$ boot and you will like it!
Buy a Ferrari and you will corner much better than in your lousy Chevrolet.
You have quite some experience to speak from.So to enable us to benefit from same ,and not waste our money on crappy Meindls,could you be so kind and elaborate why they are a "piece of crap" ?,in particular when one can get them for 250$ off the rack and most folks seem to be able to walk away with them 1st day?
No I dont have any association with them and dont even own a pair myself.I have been walking in "Elkhunters" I believe from Danners,but wish that I had bought Meindls.Everyone I listen to likes them.I bought mine on Sale from Cabellas some years ago.Stiff nice boot with airbob sole
sheephunter

As it happens, I was crippled by a drunk driver at age 14 in 1960, I have a right leg that is 1.5" shorter than my left, it contains a "pseudarthrosis" and a mangled knee. I was accepted into the British Columbia Forest Service at age 18 in 1965 and my primary duties consisted of fighting forest fires, managing largescale silvicultural operations and manning isolated firetowers-a job I performed for the Alberta Forest Service as well. This involved many years of 6-8 months wearing boots in the most difficult and demanding terrain-conditions in North America, frequently for 20 hr. days on fires and for 3-5.5 months alone on lookouts.

I have also climbed and trekked, solo, for many weeklong trips in much of our most isolated mountain country during every month of the year, I will be leaving for a week alone on snowshoes in the Purcells at the beginning of next month.

This sort of experience is a bit different from hunting for several days, often with a guide. One's health and sometimes one's life can depend on the fit and quality of one's footwear as any professional outdoors person will tell you. I also worked in the off-season for the Canadian importer of Meindl boots and wore many other makes in the bush. My opinions are based on both practical experience and seeing which boots come back for repair-replacement most often.

I do not see cost as a major factor in this, there are other places to save money in the over-all outdoor picture, one can do without alcohol for example. Also, a pair of really good boots will outlast a pair of lesser boots by a considerable factor, so, there are savings to be had there as well. A boot such as the Meindls now produced will not stand up to the conditions found in B.C., longterm, they have always had a problem with their stitching-as I said, i have owned and worn out 6 pr. of them since 1973.

Of course, all of this is relative to what ones does with boots and I was thinking of when I was in Alaska, briefly, more than 30 yrs. ago. It is tough country, just like B.C. and I think that one should not compromise with equipment choices. For example, the loggers in B.C. use Viberg boots, especially the old, pros who have been in the bush for years; these guys work in conditions that most people couldn't endure for 2 hours, so, they need equipment that works.

The various mass produced boots such as contemporary Meindles, Raichles, Danners and Rockies are fine for moderate country and easy hikes, or, for those who do not get out and into the really isolated wilderness in B.C., the Territories and Alaska, but, I find that they do not last and will not stay waterproof here; this is due to the poor quality leather they use now as compared with 30 yrs. ago. You can ask a mountainboot repairman about this, if you like.

I do not care what boot anyone buys; I have been on enough rescues and taught-trained enough forestry crews that I have seen many people use inappropriate equipment and pay the price for doing so.I think that experience is the best teacher in all outdoors related pursuits and I hope that my opinions derived therefrom will help others, which is why I offer them.

Mendeil (sp) is the way to go I have used them all over alaska and they are perfect to me, plastic boots work but are more specilized and can be trobelsome when going down hill. The mendeils work good with crampons on also.

I think that I will add the following "tech-talk" for anyone interested, again this is based on both bush experience and many hours working with the top people in Vancouver, B.C. who build and repair boots.

For any leather boot be genuinely water-resistant, it MUST be made of whole-grain leather, not any form of split leather such as the currently trendy "Nubuk". It must be "vegetable tanned" and impregnated with oil and wax and should be at least 6oz. stock, 7 oz. is better. The old-style "roughout" leather was best if one loaded it with waterproofing by warming it over a hot air vent or in the sun; it also resisted rock cuts better than anything else.

The wholegrain leather also maintains it's lasted shape far better than any other boot material, thus a genuinely supportive boot can be made a bit lighter relative to it's stiffness-this is very beneficial in really steep country. the combination of support, resistance to damage and moisture are, with correct fitting, the essence of what make's a boot function well under harsh conditions and heavy loads.

As a young man, I used a "Trapper Nelson #3" packboard to carry a 10 Imp gallon, steel cream can full of drinking water about a mile up to a 6000 ft. lookout site; it would weigh about 125-130 lbs and it was part of my job to do this. I soon learned that the light hikers I had brought with me were useless and could even pitch me over a cliff beside the trail. However, a pair of heavy, expensive logger boots I also had provided the traction and foot protection that I needed. I am now 57+ and I still carry 65 lb. loads in the rough, high country of the Kootenays, frequently offtrail and I can only do so by using the finest boots available.

Most boots today are made to sell at a "price point" which is understandable and also for urban yuppies to wear to impress their equally shallow-trendy friends. For the conditions found in Sheep hunting, I have found the light leather and fabric boots simply disintegrate where top quality, full grain leather boots keep on truckin'.

I use "Montana Pitch Blend" on my hunting boots and it is the best goop for water-resistance that I have ever seen. If, you have a fullgrain boot, it will not soften the leather, if used sparingly. "Gore-Tex" membranes will contaminate rapidly from the sebaceous secretions in perspiration and the fabric liners used with them will shred under severe use and thus cause hot spots and blisters; the membrane will also detach, pill up and the same problem will occur.

There is a custom boot maker in Utah and one in Seattle, sure, the cost is high, but, it's a long-term investment. Top quality boots are like Zeiss, Swarovski and Leica binos, they simply do it all better and last longer.I have very high end boots that I have reserved for hunting and scouting that are over 20 years old and they have been resoled three times each; try that with any of the stuff you buy cheaply today.

I like bob soles, been using them since '88, but, they will not edge like Vibram Montagnas or Calgary's and when worn, which they do quite easily, they will not hold on hard pack snow, either. I have worked in corks for weeks on end and I will only wear cork boots that fit very precisely as you can get severely scrunched wearing loose fitting, padded corks, a set of mini-crampons is a very good idea in mountain country, I always have mine plus a staff.

Anyway, you get what you pay for and highend boots for serious sheep hunting are a wise investment, IMO.

I have used a set of Canada meindle boots for a couple of years now and I generally like them..they are comfortable, offer good support and have stayed waterproof. However, and it is a big "however" I really dislike the hard vibram sole which seems to be standard on so many boots these days. Sure they are hard wearing, but on wet grassy, or heather covered slopes, they are slippy as hell.

My current favourites are a pair of Aigle fabric and leather goretex lined hi leg boots.. They are lighter than the Meidle, offer better grip and are quieter to stalk in. However, i doubt they will last like the meidle and I doubt they would hold up in the Alaskan Wilderness....

With regards goretex in boots, i have heard some negative comments as well..the chief one being that using it allowed boot makers to offer short term waterproofness "on the cheap"...many modern boots are full of seems and use cheap leather but are realtively waterproof due to the goretex...


I have mixed feeling about this myself and i find that here in the UK there are few high leg hunting boots with most of the market being aimed at low hikers so i have to compromise a bit...

Regards,

Pete

kutenaymtnboy,
you are speaking with a soft tongue and make strong statements from personal experience.I like that an awful lot.I second many things you state and maybe even learned some.
My "mountain boots" are heavy leather,but I always found them lacking in snow.they soak up the water and will not take the wax until dried out,which is almost impossible to do in camp.
I second the Vibram sole deficiencies: they are very sturdy,outlast any boot,but slippery as hell on moss and grass in the mountains.
Because of the rocks and terrain I prefer a stiff solid boot in the mountains.When you have to carry a heavy load it becomes paramount as you state.
The biggest problem is water and snow as stated

sheephunter

kutenaymtnboy,

Excellent series of posts!

I thoroughly enjoy reading all you have written and learned alot to boot. Pun intended.
It is not at all common to have access to someone like yourself who has alot of direct
wilderness experince as well as extensive knowledge of the manufacture of a product in
question.....in this case premium boots.

I appreciate you taking the time to present your thoughts in such clear and consise manor.

I will have to look up the various boot makers you recommended.

Regards,
Dave

A couple more points here which may be of interest:

1. Many of the soles now sold as "Vibram" are not actual Italian, high-carbon Vibram; they are blends of materials containing "urethane" which is much cheaper, but, very slippery, especially when wet and also does not wear well. It's about costs and profits because the actual market for high-end mountain boots is miniscule.

2. Genuine Italian "Vibram" montagna bloc or "Calgary" soles will stick with anything on most terrain, but, you need to replace them frequently as they slip easily as the lugs round off with wear. I have, use and like "Claws" and other "bob" soles, but, they do clog with mud and I do not find them any better on steep meadows than the above due to this. They are much quieter and thus far better for stalking, in my experience, I wear them most often.

3. No leather boot is ever totally waterproof and cannot be made so in camp. I take a week to waterproof my boots with several, thin, handrubbed coats of "Montana Pitch Blend" and then I carry one and sometimes two changes of socks and I change every three hours and wring out the damp ones. In really wet conditions I use the Schnee's pac boots from Bozeman, Mt.; they are amazing and all of the guides in northern B.C. that I have met are crazy about them.

I also use top-quality kneehigh gaiters with my mountain boots and find that this helps with keeeping my feet dry; there are really awesome ones of these made in England of waxed cotton. I find that most of the support of a boot is actually in the vamp and how it is lasted to the foot, I actually do not like boots that are too high as they ruck at the ankle and thus do not support you there, right where you need it.

The prices on the Viberg boots I mentioned are actually quite reasonable and the leather they use is the best. I like these boots as well because they do not have the padding of the European boots which when wet will not dry and keeps your foot too moist. They will send catalogues and make one hell of a product.

Finally, after a bad tumble with a heavy pack and one of my much loved Pre-64 Alaskans in .338 two years ago, I realized that I ain't as tough as I used to be and now I use those trekking poles for ALL my mountain excursions, hunting or not. I camo mine with tape and they are about the only thing that will keep you upright on moss, grass and heather. I find this to be far more difficult than traversing glaciers or avalanche fans and these really are worth the cost and weight---try Montana Pitch Blend, it really works, smells nice too!

Thanks again for sharing your experience.So far I have used Sno-Seal Wax, in thick layers,tried to work into the leather as much as it will take.It lasts about 1-2 days when its wet.Any experience how it compares to Montana Pitch stuff?
finally,my personal weakness must be that my legs dont align with my feet perpendicular -> weak ankles.
The end result being that all my boots end up crooked as my heels walk "out" the rear part to the inside.
I have long been wondering whether an inlying corrective sole would alleviate that.I am using fitted soles from a podiatrist to do that but dontknow yet whether it will be better.
If you destroy boots that way it doesnt pay to invest that much into them

sheephunter

kutenaymtnboy

Quote:

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A couple more points here which may be of interest:



1. Many of the soles now sold as "Vibram" are not actual Italian, high-carbon Vibram; they are blends of materials containing "urethane" which is much cheaper, but, very slippery, especially when wet and also does not wear well. It's about costs and profits because the actual market for high-end mountain boots is miniscule.

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Am I right in thinking that Vibram is actually a company/trademark rather than a particular material?

Quote:

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2. Genuine Italian "Vibram" montagna bloc or "Calgary" soles will stick with anything on most terrain, but, you need to replace them frequently as they slip easily as the lugs round off with wear. I have, use and like "Claws" and other "bob" soles, but, they do clog with mud and I do not find them any better on steep meadows than the above due to this. They are much quieter and thus far better for stalking, in my experience, I wear them most often.

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We don't get many boots over here with bob soles, but a friend imported some Rocky Stalkers a while back, and I was very impressed with the bob soles on them...they seemed to be an ideal compromise for the stalking conditions over here. Not very impressed with the rest of the boot though, and they only lasted about 18 months of relatively light use.

Quote:

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No leather boot is ever totally waterproof and cannot be made so in camp. I take a week to waterproof my boots with several, thin, handrubbed coats of "Montana Pitch Blend" and then I carry one and sometimes two changes of socks and I change every three hours and wring out the damp ones. In really wet conditions I use the Schnee's pac boots from Bozeman, Mt.; they are amazing and all of the guides in northern B.C. that I have met are crazy about them.

---

< !--color-->



I see this as where goretex comes in. If you take a genuine top quality boot made the old fashioned way and add goretex, perhaps between the outer leather and the leather liner, I think that would work well. Unforetuately too many makers see goretex as a product allowing them to compromise on the quality of leather used or the boot construction or very often both...



What are your thoughts on the importance of "breathability" in boots, either tradional leather ones or those with goretex? I have my own suspicions/thoughts but I would be interested to hear yours first...



I am also curious who makes the gaitors you were on about?



Regards,



Pete

Sheephunter-In my opinion, given your ankle problems, you should consider getting a pair of topgrade custom boots for the serious high-angle, high-altitude hunting and keep the Meindles for the easy hiking. A GOOD mountain boot maker can build in the corrections you need-right into the boot- and thus you can dispense with orthotics in many instances.I have used them, they cost me more than my boots did and I do not like the lack of precision foot control that they create in the larger boots I bought to use them in; good fit is vital in mountain boots as I am sure you know. They will also outlast ANY commercial boot, so, the cost factor is not that bad.

There is a guy in Salt Lake, any specialty mountain shop down there will know who he is, I have forgotten his name. Charlie Van Gorkum will also ship to the US and his boots are about perfect- about $450.00 USD. I had the worst luck with Sno-Seal, quit using it over 20 yrs. ago, call Schnee's in Bozeman for Montana goop-it does the best job, if used properly-many thin coats rubbed in to warmed, cleaned leather, a monotonous job!

Pete-Even if you were to sandwich Goretex as you suggest, it would still contaminate from sweat and would add to the cost of a good boot while not delivering any real benefit.I have some pricey American chukkas with it under leather-got a deal on them- and it has given up in B.C.s wet climate, but, the leather is still fine. I find that Gore-Tex lined boots are too hot, as well.

You cannot have breathability and waterproofness at once, I have tried. I find the old, roughout boots well waterproofed and frequent sock changes-avoid cotton- to work best for me and the climate here is similiar to the UK in many respects. In the UK, I understand that you can buy "Scarpa" boots; I have a model called the "Concordia" which is a very nice medium mountain boot and would probably work well there; the Meindle "Canada" is just too heavy and bulky for my taste and does not give any additional support for my limpy legs. I prefer the Meindle last to any other boots, but, they are not what they were-of course, I'm not either! I cannot recall the name of those gaiters, they are waxed cotton and are advertised in the large UK gun and hunting magazines-I have various gaiters, but, I want some of these as I find that "GoreTex" gaiters do not last either and they are expensive as well.

"Vibram" is actually a trademark, but, it has become the term for a certain type of sole; my boot people insist on the Italian stuff which does not seem as slippery on wet rocks and grass as the other stuff. It really does come down to price, same old story. Cheers, KMB

To bring some balance back to this topic, a $600 pair of boots is not necessary to hunt sheep. Many Alaskans wear Meindls (or something similar) on a daily basis in the bush and do just fine. This reasoning is kind of like saying Xtra Tuff boots are crap and you need custom boots to take a halibut charter. How many times are you going to sheep hunt in your life? If you can wear out a pair of Meindls (get the right model to begin with) hunting sheep then you don't need any our advice. Let's not loose track of the intent for these boots.

For some, even buying Meindls is a financial stretch but to say that Meindls are crap is ridiculous. I don't dispute that a $600 pair of custom boots should do well but you can do very well with less than 1/2 that much money. Will it last you for 15 years? Who cares...by then I'll be sick of looking at the same boots.

I can appreciate the experience that goes behind the $600 advice but it's just not realistic or necessary for somebody to need them. I live in the Bush and I guess I better go tell all the Natives that their stuff is crap. They're going to be upset...or confused?

Well, I guess that is one way of looking at it and I have my way, based on 40+ yrs. of experience. I have also lived in the bush, alone for months at a time and worn out 5 pr. of the top Meindle climbing boots as well as several pair of other brands, but, strictly speaking, you are right, a person does not need custom boots to hunt sheep-did I say that they did?

I have done enough mountaineering, hunting and working in alpine country to find out that your boots are among the most important items you must have and if you have foot or leg problems as I do, having them made for you can actually be far more effective than buying any brand of commercial boots. But, I do not care what someone chooses to buy and wear, I can only base my opinions on what I have experienced.

I used to go through two pairs of high-end mountaineering boots every 2-3 yrs., for over twenty years and I found that Meindls, although they have the most comfortable last for my feet, simply fell apart at the seams much quicker than some other boots; this was also the experience of a number of other people I knew.I prefer my boots to last as long as possible because a heavy, leather climbing boot conforms more closely to one's foot and thus is more comfortable the longer you wear it; I never get tired of something that improves with age, but, each to his own.

As far as the "natives" are concerned, I haven't seen too many of them climbing mountains in Canada, but, maybe they do in Alaska-with whiteman's boots, no less.

Yep, Kootenaymtnboy. There are too many mountaineers all over the world successfully using "crap" boots from Scarpa, Koflach, Asolo, Millet etc... for me to believe that I have to pay $600 to go hiking in sheep territory. I'm currently staring at my quite serviceable pair of Makalus. My Asolo AFS Expeditions and Millet Everests are out in the garage.

My Makalus have been up over 14K about half a dozen times, in Spring,Summer and Fall. And none of these were CO walkups. Class 3 or better, so crampons and ice axe were mandatory. Even managed to lead several pitches of 5.7 in them. I melted in beeswax to seal them, and have never had a water logging issue. But maybe I'm just out in snow, more than water. I'd still recommend them to anyone though.

Ditto the Asolo Expeditions and Everests, but not for hunting. Too specialized for winter mountaineering.

Regards,
Scott

No natives in the mountains? Who do you think was in the mountains before the white boys showed up? Somebody had to show them around. Read up on your history. Good point given about Asolos, etc by Scott. There are a lot of great boots out there for $300. Keep in mind that you're getting advice from someone who has to have custom sizing. How many of us need that?

Also, is this a sheep hunting topic or a mountain climbing topic? There is a common misconception that sheep hunting REQUIRES hanging off of cliffs and technical climbing skills. That just isn't the case. That can be true of mountain goats but sheep are often found in the bowls and alluvial fans.

My comments were based on the actual experiences I have had in western Canada and I have been very specific with respect to that. I have pointed out, in response to questions asked of me by some posters, why I prefer certain boots and do not use others-although I have actually used everything I refered to, otherwise I wouldn't comment on it.

In the area I hunt in, the Rocky Mtn. Bighorns, the California Bighorns and even the Stone's Thinhorn Sheep are usually found in areas that require traversing talus, scree and frozen snowfields as well as climbing very steep rockfaces; the Rocky Mtn. Goats are invariably found in the most precipitous areas and require mountaineering techniques to reach, often including protection.

I do not require custom sizing, I do require an orthopaedic lift and this adds to the cost of factory boots for me; it can be included in custom boots as a part of the over-all cost. However, the most important point here is really what works for a given person under their hunting conditions and I have offered my opinions to assist anyone who might find them helpful, not to argue with anyone.

If, as I have said, someone wants to use Meindls, Russells or even thongs, more power to them, I have learned to use what I find works best for me where I hunt. I am aware that others have different opinions and that is great, but, it still does not prevent the problems I have experienced with the boots mentioned. Anyone, who is interested can ask any professional mountain boot repair person and see what they might say. The fact is that the leather used in the European boots today is not the same as it was 30 yrs. ago and the boots do not stay waterproof as long or wear as well, at least those that I own.

The waterproofing that I have mentioned is based on Beeswax, combined with Pinetar and Minkoil; it is much easier to use than melting-in Beeswax and I have used it from the mid-B.C. coast, the wettest area in North America to the deep snow and -40 temps of my home in the Kootenays, with complete satisfaction, again, each to his own.

One more point, I have never said that anyone needed custom boots or extremely expensive boots, simply that certain boots have worked better than others for me. I have about 12 prs. of different outdoor boots for various uses now and find that specialization increases both my performance and my comfort level; given my injured legs and age-57+-in addition to my love of mountains, I think that this is the way to go.

Kutenaymtnboy, whats your opinion on the best pair of boots in the 300.00 price range?

I honestly don't know what is available in your area because I have never been there. If, you want mountaineering boots, you should be able to find some full grain leather aka rough-out boots in a GOOD mountaineering shop. Try to find a shop that uses the fitting method developed by Phil Oren, he's an American who has spent a lot of time developing a fitting method for mountain boots and he really knows his stuff. Also, Americans, Canadians and German-Swiss lasts tend to fit most of us better than French or Italian lasts which are narrower in most respects.

So, for Euro-boots, right now, I prefer Scarpa, Lowa and the heaviest Montrails for quality of construction and the leather they use-there are others that are as good by reputation, Asolo boots in the higher end models, etc., but, these three are the best I have seen recently.

If, you are going to hunt Sheep, Mulies and Elk in high, rough, but, not perpendicular country such as in my home area, I would suggest White's Shoes in Spokane, WA. Along with Viberg of Victoria, B.C. they make the best boots of the traditional North American style that I have ever seen and they should be about $300.00-Vibergs a bit less in good ol' Yankee dollars. Check with Schnee's in Bozeman, MT., they are agents for White's, Hathhorne, another US company and they make a fabulous rubber/leather pac boot which absolutely kicks ass-all the guides and outfitters I know use these and I love mine, had them for 12 yrs!

I actually prefer the traditional boot style for most hunting as they are easier to keep dry and quieter than most Euro-style boots. If, you go to a Euro-boot, you should not have to pay more than $300.00 USD for anything suitable for ANY mountain hunting-even the plastic double boots can be found for about that price, although I just don't care for them-others do, whatever floats thy boat, eh.

Hope this helps, sorry I can't be more specific.

This topic has already been well covered, but I couldn't keep myself from putting in my two-cents worth. I've been on three Alaska sheep hunts now, great hunts - but thats another story. My first one I wore Miendel Canada boots and Koflach and the other two. For steep tough country I would not go without the Koflach's. They provide the support and water-proofness needed in the Alaska outback. The Koflach's take a bit gettin' use to, especially when comming down hill. If the hunt wasn't going to be too steep or wet, but that isn't sheep hunting is it, I would go with the Miendel's, they are more comfortable and provide good support. I wear them whenever I'm hunting in the Pacific Northwest for elk or deer. I liked the Canada boot so well I bought a pair of Miendel's with 600 or 800 grams insulation for late season deer and elk hunting. For me its; Miendel's for leather hunting boots, Koflach's for Sheep and Goats.

Woody

This topic seems beat to death but: I've used Meindls for goat in BC, elk and deer in Montana, tundra caribou in AK, and all manner of flat (almost) land stuff. I climbed mountains (technical climbs) in the 70's and 80's (now I'm too old). Those super rigid boots used back then were necessary for crampons and high angle ice, but crap for approach hikes (which is more akin to real hunting). Meindls fit right outa the box, and felt good from the get-go. I finally got rid of the technical climbing boots years after trying Meindls for hunting, and never looked back. I'm kinda interested in "plastic boots" but, if it ain't broke why fix it? I guess the next step up in expense would be to have a helicopter fly you to the top, or pay someone to carry you.

Wear whatever fits you the best and you can afford. If you you have bad ankles get something with better support and so on. I have hunted sheep in Kootnymtnguy's (sp) backyard and did it with a pair of Merrells that cost $180 (CAN)that I got on sale for $85 becuase they were the last pair they had. When I got back to the truck with my ram, the only part of my body that did not hurt was my feet.

What boots to wear is like what rifle to use. Some guys say if it is not a magnum the animal will get away but others kill the same animal with a bow and arrow. So who is right?

Every boot listed on this thread has been used by somebody that liked it. Obviously some have way more experience then others and their opinions should be taken more seriously then the guy who goes into the mountains one weekend every year. I guess everybody should sit down and look at what they really want out of a boot. Is it for a one week hunt and then they will never see a mountain again. Is the boot going to be used for summer hiking and 2 months of hard hunting in the hills. Do you expect aboot to last a lifetime or just a couple of years? All these things should be carefully looked at.

Alex