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| I have waxed my guns on the trips there and in any tropical country..metal and wood..Johnsons car wax, carnuba or about any good wax will do....a very light coat of WD-40 or whatever in the bore..Heavy oil will normally toss the first couple of shots high, light oil makes very littel difference in "most" rifles, but its best to test them... |
| Posts: 42322 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000 |
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| As Ray suggested wax works pretty well. I've used Johnson's paste wax quite a bit with good results. I use a degreaser first and then apply the wax to all exterior metal surfaces. Don't forget to remove the barrelled action fron the stock and do the underside of all metal. |
| Posts: 13119 | Location: LAS VEGAS, NV USA | Registered: 04 August 2002 |
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| rusty duck and lightfluid to keep your trigger from rusting. nightly cleaning. miss one nite u are screwed. good luck. cold zero |
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| there are several companies making spray on rust-protection for tools. Topcoat is one that I have and like. It works MUCH better than paste wax.
In the barrel, a light oil is fine generally. I'll take a .22 cal cleaning rod and run a patch occasionally when I stop for a break. No big deal.
Brent |
| Posts: 2257 | Location: Where I've bought resident tags:MN, WI, IL, MI, KS, GA, AZ, IA | Registered: 30 January 2002 |
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| I have not tried wax, but WD40 is always a good thing to have for your gun when everything is soaking wet and stays that way. And since they came out I am a firm believer in using bore snakes and whatever solvent/guncleaner is in camp at the end of the day to get rust out of the barrel. I think blueing on a rifle in most parts of Alaska will not last very long...two hard wet rusty seasons will put some miles on a blued rifle. But a rifle will work with only part of its blueing...A brand new blued rifle out of the box will show plenty of rust at the end of the first wet day. All the serious cleaning is done after I get home. |
| Posts: 669 | Location: Alaska, USA | Registered: 26 February 2004 |
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| I'd like to hear what 458 Win has to say about how the blueing held up on a particular 458 Lott that began life in Northern Utah.
Chuck |
| Posts: 2659 | Location: Southwestern Alberta | Registered: 08 March 2003 |
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| Bore Butter sounds like a great idea. |
| Posts: 669 | Location: Alaska, USA | Registered: 26 February 2004 |
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| DD, is Bore Butter available locally? I've never really been into muzzle loading so have never seen it around. |
| Posts: 513 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 25 October 2003 |
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| Lest ye forgetteth, Saeed has performed the "Rust Prevention Test" and has the results on the accuratereloading.com website: Rust Prevention Test I was bummed at how poorly good 'ol WD-40 performed. Someone should send Saeed some of this bore butter snake oil stuff and see how it stacks up. I'm very anal about not leaving anything in the bore. I've seen way to many oiled bores throw the first shot 2-3" from the POI of a fouled bore. I cover up the end of with electrical tape. Of course, I have no benchrest guns either and don't normally shoot much beyond 100 yds. |
| Posts: 2097 | Location: S.E. Alaska | Registered: 18 December 2003 |
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| Bore Butter? Indeed. I have quite a lot of it.
I wasn't real thrilled with the paste-wax treatment I tried for my Alaska hunt.
Russ |
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| I HAVEN'T dragged my guns through the jungles but I have dragged them through Northern Michigan and Canadien hunting for almost 40 years. For outside protection of blued steel I have never seen anything work like Brownells Krinkle paint. You take the rifle out of the action and clean REALLY WELL, degrease everything. mask off all the holes and places you do NOT want the paint going then apply it with a heat source to warm the metal. THEN apply it with the spray can and wand the heat over the paint. Some folks use hair dryers. I use a paint stripper gun on low. Once the metal and paint get warm you will see it Krinkle up. I have a .375H&H that has been under the paint for over 20 years and the paint is just now starting to let go in a few places, and the blue underneath is perfect. Also because the paint goes on a little thick, it provides protection against dings and scratches. It is like bed liner for your guns. All my bad weather guns are painted. The nice thing is you can remove it any time but it wears like iron.
AS for moving parts, it depends on the temperatures I am going into. When I go for December caribou, I clean well and then only the LIGHTEST touch of FP10 is used on the bolt raceways and other exterior parts not painted. |
| Posts: 624 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 07 April 2003 |
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| Bore Butter should be available locally. If not it is available at www.midwayusa.comI love it. light coating....the problem with pastes are people gob it on. Take your time do it right and your firearms will thank you for it. Ben |
| Posts: 112 | Location: Fairbanks, Alaska | Registered: 25 July 2003 |
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| Quote:
The best thing that I have found....I've tried them all!
BORE BUTTER!
Ben
I use BORE BUTTER all the time. Great stuff! |
| Posts: 3142 | Location: Magnolia Delaware | Registered: 15 May 2004 |
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| Quote:
GUNS DOWN "SCREW-YOU" UNDER here in Fairbanks.
AMEN!! |
| Posts: 513 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 25 October 2003 |
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| Quote:
Someone should send Saeed some of this bore butter snake oil stuff and see how it stacks up.
I'm very anal about not leaving anything in the bore. I've seen way to many oiled bores throw the first shot 2-3" from the POI of a fouled bore. I cover up the end of with electrical tape.
I strictly use bore butter on the outside of the firearm. You are right about the POI using petroleum products down the barrel. In fact most rifles shoot better after a fouled barrel. I would only use something down the barrel for long term storage.
Most modern firearms won't rust within the bore on a normal hunt. A dry cloth down the bore can go a long way after a wet day before you bed down at night.
Ben |
| Posts: 112 | Location: Fairbanks, Alaska | Registered: 25 July 2003 |
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